BSOD help

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  1. Posts : 64
    Windows 7 Ultimate x64 (upgrade from Vista Ultimate for sys builders)
    Thread Starter
       #101

    Ok. Well, I'll keep these two plugged in and just use the mouse and keyboard for a few days and if nothing happens, then i'll add another and test it for a few days and then so on and so on.
      My Computer


  2. Posts : 11,990
    Windows 7 Ultimate 32 bit
       #102

    I still suggest that you get a PS/2 key board and mouse and try your USB mouse and keyboard one at a time.
      My Computer


  3. Posts : 64
    Windows 7 Ultimate x64 (upgrade from Vista Ultimate for sys builders)
    Thread Starter
       #103

    Ok. I'll give it a try with one. I'm sure someone has one I can borrow, or trade with temporarily. I'll report back if anything happens, as well as any dumps.
      My Computer


  4. Posts : 11,990
    Windows 7 Ultimate 32 bit
       #104

    I wish you the best in the troubleshooting. That is a tedious task.
      My Computer


  5. Posts : 12,177
    Windows 7 Ult x64 - SP1/ Windows 8 Pro x64
       #105

    It's best to completely test and knock out the hardware as you go, for example get a PS/2 keboard and use your USB mouse, leave all other USB devices un-plugged, see if you get a crash. If no crashes then plug in one extra USB device at a time and test for crashes. Unplug the USB device and plug in another one and test again, etc.
    This way you can find the USB device that cases the crash.

    If none of them cause a crash then you may be pulling too much voltage from the USB when they are all connected, try a powered usb hub.

    Let us know your progress.
      My Computer


  6. Posts : 64
    Windows 7 Ultimate x64 (upgrade from Vista Ultimate for sys builders)
    Thread Starter
       #106

    Well, I have some bad news. I just got a crash. The only things plugged in are a PS/2 mouse, HDMI through the graphics card, audio through the onboard audio. =(. I also just realized that I forgot to disable the USB in BIOS. If that makes a difference, even though no USB devices are connected. Would it make a difference that I have the front panel ports connected to the mobo still, nothing is plugged into them, but they are still wired to the mobo?

    Something else, I have a 7 in 1 memory card reader and USB that I have in a 3.5" slot that I pulled from an old HP machine, maybe that is causing problems. Just something else I'd throw out there.

    According to Newegg (that's where I bought it), my RAM is rated to run at 1.65v at 8-8-8-24, do I need to set it to that in the BIOS instead of the 1.0v we set previously, and the timings of 7-7-7?

    My 4 port hub is powered.
    Last edited by fishlipsboy; 07 Feb 2011 at 22:58. Reason: Uploading more dump files
      My Computer


  7. Posts : 12,177
    Windows 7 Ult x64 - SP1/ Windows 8 Pro x64
       #107

    You should disable the USB in your BIOS. When you disable USB in the BIOS it will make all USB ports non-functional.
    Completely disconnect the memory card reader, all cables un-plugged. What driver are you using for this?

    Your CPUZ SPD tab shows what the RAM manufacturor recommends running at each stated frequency.
    Attachment 137198
    If your DRAM frequency is 609MHz then you would set it at 8-8-8-19.

    The CPUZ Memory tab shows you what the frequency and timings are for your system, what it is actually running at now.
    Attachment 137197

    At 533MHz the RAM should be at 7-7-7-16 (first four settings), the rest should be on auto. DRAM Voltage at 1.5v.

    The CPU/NB, this is the voltage for the memory controller which is part of your CPU. Low voltage will cause instability and can cause crashes. Too much voltage will cause more heat. Your voltage was very low, 0.8v bumping it to 1.0v is still low.
      My Computer


  8. Posts : 64
    Windows 7 Ultimate x64 (upgrade from Vista Ultimate for sys builders)
    Thread Starter
       #108

    I'll disable the USB in the BIOS tonight then. I am just using the Windows default driver, as the device is proprietary for HP and I wasn't able to find anything for it.

    I believe that I left the DRAM voltage at auto. I'll bump it up to 1.5v tonight.

    The reason that I was asking about changing the timings to 8 instead of 7, as well as the other settings, was just for stability reasons, since the product specs were at that. But if running it at 7 will be just fine, then I can leave it there. I don't do any overclocking, no need to with my system, so I won't be able to tell a lot of difference with the timings. I'm following whatever advice yall can give me for that. If I need to, I can submit a support ticket through OCZ with my specs and see what they recommend.

    The CPU/NB was set at auto in the beginning, so I don't know what it was actually running at. I just know that the minimum value was .8v, so I was assuming that is the voltage that it was running at.
      My Computer


  9. Posts : 64
    Windows 7 Ultimate x64 (upgrade from Vista Ultimate for sys builders)
    Thread Starter
       #109

    Ok. I corrected my RAM settings to 1.5v and corrected the CR to 1T, as CPU-Z has listed, rather than the 2T that was suggested in one of the previous posts. I disabled the USB in BIOS and now my PS/2 mouse is not working???? (edit: looks like my mouse just happened to break at the same time) Also, I got a BSOD on bootup, so I rebooted and after that Windows Explorer stopped working, so I had to reboot again. I'll re-enable USB to get the dump file and post it here shortly, but I'm guessing this means that the USB is not the issue.

    All services, except for MS, have been disabled from msconfig, USB has been disabled, RAM has been manually set, HDD's have been tested but passed, graphics has been tested with the hairydonut program. The only other possibilities I have read about would be the power supply not providing enough power. If that is the case, I'm at a stopping point because I'm not in a position to purchase a new one and I don't have access to borrow another.

    I'm about to the point where I'm just going to throw out the Seagate drive and wipe the other drives and start from scratch and just install one driver at a time and test it for a few days, then install another, and do the same with updates of just one at a time and test the system. The only reason I think this might be the last option is because with every test that has been run, everything comes back clean, over and over again. The problems didn't start up until around October of last year. Maybe it is an update, maybe it is Google Chrome, maybe it is something else...I don't know, but it is just weird how everything has become so terribly unstable.

    Let me know what I need to do, or if I should just start from scratch and throw out the Seagate. I just feel like we've hit a dead end.
    Last edited by fishlipsboy; 10 Feb 2011 at 15:38. Reason: Adding another dump
      My Computer


  10. Posts : 64
    Windows 7 Ultimate x64 (upgrade from Vista Ultimate for sys builders)
    Thread Starter
       #110

    What do I do now guys?

    Also, I contacted OCZ and was advised to use the following settings for the RAM.

    Set DRAM Frequency Control to { 1600 Mhz }
    Set CPU/NB Voltage to { 1.2 volts to 1.35 volts } [ the lowest stable voltage level - may require trial and error for the sweetspot ]

    Set DRAM Voltage to { 1.65 volts }

    Set CPU, PCIE, and SB Clock Spread Spectrums to { Disabled }
    Set Enable Clock to ALL DIMMS to { Disabled }
    Set Memory Hole Remapping to { Enabled }
    Set DCT Unganged Mode to { Enabled }
    Set DRAM Command Rate to { 2T }
    Set DRAM Timings to 8-8-8-24 (TCL-TRCD-TRP-TRAS)
    Set TRC to { AUTO }
      My Computer


 
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