Windows 7: BSOD - Buzzing issues - Clock Interrupt secondary processor

Current status and a rundown of what I have tried

I have read through Post #6 and thing I have tried almost everything suggested:

Bios is updated
Clean reinstall of OS on a new hard drive
Malware scan - no issues
Video drivers is latest from manufacturer
Chipset drivers updated
All other drivers updated and verifed ( using Driver Verifier Settings )
Furmark stress tested - no errors
CPU stress tested with Prime95 - no errors
Ran SFC.EXE /SCANNOW - no errors
Temperatures checked and none above normal
Memtest has been run twice with no errors
I have disabled the onboard audio in bios and installed a PCI-E audio card with latest drives.
I have disabled the secondary monitor
I turned off hardware sound acceleration in warcraft which is game were the BSOD's occur. (wife has stated that she has gotten a BSOD several times in one particular dungeon at same end boss )
Graphic settings for Warcraft were compared to mine and are identical and not at the highest level. They were at "good" , but were reduced to "fair"

System is now giving BSOD of "Machine Check exemption"
Latest dump attached.
The whocrashed report is now indicating an issue with Hardware Abstraction Layer DLL


I have not replaced memory yet ( I have a compatible set)
I have not replaced video card yet ( I have identical)
I have not turned off a core in the bios ( any link to how to do so?)



I can do any or all of these last three at your suggestion.

Thanks for all the help

Newer BSOD mentions the audio driver for the sound card.

I have checked and the driver installed is the most current one from the vendor site.

New dump attached

It is a purely hardware error.

► Test your RAM modules for possible errors.
How to Test and Diagnose RAM Issues with Memtest86+
Run memtest for at least 8 passes, preferably overnight, per RAM module per slot.

► Stress test the Graphics Card using Furmark.
Video Card - Stress Test with Furmark

► Stress test the CPU.
Hardware - Stress Test With Prime95

Let us know the results.

I swapped out the wife's video card with mine (same model) and her RAM with mine (different RAM but on QVL for her board)

This also allows me time to do more testing on her components in my system as hers cannot be tied up running the tests and troubleshooting during normal daylight hours.

I ran the Video Card - Stress Test with Furmark on her card. I ran the test for 15 minutes. Maximum temperature levelled off at a high of 84.

There were no artifacts but at 10 min 10 sec the screen went black for a second, and then returned to normal Furmark testing screen.

Does this mean we have the culprit?

Take the other tests too. It seems that furmark went good there.

Well Wife's system just BSOD'ed (secondary processor interrupt) with the replacement RAM and video card so that's 2 more things that are eliminated as the cause.

So it seems we are down to a MB; CPU or PS hardware issue

I'll re-run the Prime 95 again but it passed the first time and also passed Intel's own processor test .

Any way to test a PS or a program to monitor voltages?

There is a way .... http://www.sevenforums.com/vip/257690-psu-how-test.html

I have never tried it. If you want, I will call Britton30 to guide you.

That link appears to be in a VIP section I have no access to.

I can get a tester at a shop near me for 30 bucks. Are they reliable enough to show if the PS is not sending enough juice?

As stated, this is not s definitive PSU test procedure.
IF you can get a tester as shown below it does put a minor load on it.
You can download HWinfo to check voltages while running, see snip. Acceptable voltage ranges are under Method Two below.

Attachment 241671

PSU - How to Test
Information
The following steps are completely safe if the following steps are done exactly as shown.



Warning
Do not under any circumstances open the case on any PSU!

The capacitors in it will hold enough current to kill or severely burn you for several days even after powered off and unplugged.

Unplug the PSU until instructed to plug it in.

Note
This is not meant to be a complete nor definitive PSU test but will determine is the suspect unit will in fact power on. If a system will still not power on even though this test shows the PSU will, further investigation of hardware, CPU, graphics card, motherboard, etc., is needed.




Method One
Step one

1. Switch off the PSU if it has a switch and unplug it from the wall power or UPS. This must be done because even with computer powered off, the PSU is still on and has voltage present in its connectors.

2. Open the computer and locate the large power connector. It is normally on the right side of the motherboard.

3. Locate the locking tab on the connector, press it in to release and wiggle the connector and pull it out of the socket.

This is what it looks like and will have 20 or 24 pins and may be a white color.


Step Two

1. Bend a paper clip as shown in the illustration below.

2. Insert one end in the connector hole with the green wire and the other end to any one with a black wire. We have jumpered the green and a black conductor now.

3. See illustration above to locate the proper connectors.

Warning
Do not jumper ANY conductors other than GREEN and BLACK.


Information
The green wire may be a different color but will be in the same position as the green one shown in the diagram above and below.





4. After jumpering the green and black conductors as shown above, plug in and switch on (if previously switched off) the PSU.

5. Check the PSU fan, it should be running now, if so the PSU is working. The case fans may run at this time which is normal. They may not run too which is also normal.

5. At this point if the PSU fan runs but the PC still won't power on or has other issues, continue to method two below.


Method Two

1. Unplug the PSU. This method will use a Volt/Ohm meter (VOM) if available, to check the voltage out put. Leave the jumper connected. See illustration below.

2. Adjust the VOM to so it will read at least 20VDC, volts DC, direct current. Put the black VOM lead on any black conductor and the red on another color.
Yellow = 12VDC (11.4 - 12.6)
Red = 5VDC (4.75 - 5.25)
Orange = 3.3VDC (3.135 - 3.465)
These color conductors will have the same voltage on any of the PSU connectors.

3. Plug in the PSU and switch it on. Readings should be ± 5% (in red above) of the nominal voltages. In this picture the VOM is reading a 12VDC lead and shows 11.77 which is within specs and ok. If outside if these ranges, the unit is bad.
4. If the volts are within range but there are still problems, go to method three below.



Method Four

1. A better way to test a PSU is with a dedicated PSU tester like below. It will put a load on the PSU and test volts under load. This shows this PSU faulty due to 0VDC on the 12V 2 connector.

2. A PSU tester will automatically let you know if voltages are where they should be. Many will have an LCD display turn red for a bad PSU and emit a loud series of beeps.

I purchased a Thermaltake Dr. Power II power tester and tested the Power supply.

All numbers well with standards. And I thought this would be an easy troubleshoot

Edit:

Just found out that the GTX260 does not natively support DX11 which is what it was set for in Warcraft. (Blizzard forums are saying Nvidia cards are crashing all over the place after last upgrade)

Have changed settings to DX9 to see if that resolves.