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Windows 7: Random reboots, once a day or two.

22 Sep 2013   #21
nopk

Home Premium 64 bit
 
 

make and model of PS is Cooler Master Extreme2 525, cooler appears to be the stock AMD unit.


My System SpecsSystem Spec
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22 Sep 2013   #22
ICIT2LOL

Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
 
 

Ok nopk my two cents worth mate I cannot see any suggestion to test that PSU for volts mate so try this PSU - Jump Start try all the power leads for volts just remember because they are the right volts doesn't mean it has the right amount of current.

When the machine is running too have a look at the volts on the grey lead (pin 8) and let us know what that is - and if it drops out after the two minutes you say it is blue screening.

You might try reseating all the sticks and well all of the board power leads - making sure the machine is unplugged and left for a while.

Just a word of WARNING mate DO NOT under any circumstances try to mess with that PSU by taking it apart or poking test leads into it - it has been known .
My System SpecsSystem Spec
22 Sep 2013   #23
nopk

Home Premium 64 bit
 
 

Electronics tech with many years experience.. so I wont be dying to a switching power supply today

Orange - 3.353 +/- 1mv.
Yellow - 12.1 - 12.4
Red - 5.10 +/- 10mv
Grey - 5.05-5.15

No major fluctuation on any when BSOD occurs... at least not within the resolution of my DMM.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
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22 Sep 2013   #24
essenbe

Windows 7 Enterprise X64/Windows 10 Enterprise X64/Windows 10 Pro X64/Linux Mint
 
 

If you need it in the future, here is the QVL list for compatible CPUs from Asus M4A785T-M - Motherboards - ASUS
Here is a listing for your board on Newegg (Discontinued) You can get some good info on it by clicking the Feedback and details tab. Newegg is an excellent place to do research on any computer parts. ASUS M4A785T-M AM3 AMD 785G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard - Newegg.com

Everything I can see from CPUz seems OK. I at first thought the voltage was rather high but it seems it is normal. Quite frankly, it is almost impossible to test hardware if the computer won't run in normal mode. Most tests require a running computer. Both the Board and the CPU are pretty old. It is a 785 chipset and they are up to 990 chipsets now. The biggest problem is it could be a bad CPU or a bad motherboard causing the BSOds. I don't think it is your problem, but in bios you may try changing the timing for Command rate (CR) from 1 to 2. Your ram will run either but a CR of 2 is more stable for most boards.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
22 Sep 2013   #25
essenbe

Windows 7 Enterprise X64/Windows 10 Enterprise X64/Windows 10 Pro X64/Linux Mint
 
 

Do you know or are you having Temp problems? Check your CPU cooler. The stock coolers can come loose by themselves. It should be tight enough so it will not move if you grab it and try to move it a little. Also check for the operation of the CPU fan and any dust bunnies blocking it, or any other fans inside the case.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
22 Sep 2013   #26
nopk

Home Premium 64 bit
 
 

Yeah I just pulled the cpu and the spring-mounted north or southbridge heatsinks and repasted and mounted them both.. as well as reseating the cpu itself.. just in case..

no love..

Yeah, I had dug up the QVL list earlier and found a slightly higher performance CPU that was still in stock at NCIX, our semi-local online retailer.. for some 80$ CDN shipped probably..

So, in your opinion, would you take a chance on throwing a CPU into the existing board, or do you think its too hard to call one or the other?

thanks,

nopk
My System SpecsSystem Spec
22 Sep 2013   #27
nopk

Home Premium 64 bit
 
 

Screw it, told my mom she needs new gear, putting an order together now..

Thanks to everyone for their time here.. appreciate the effort..

nopk
My System SpecsSystem Spec
22 Sep 2013   #28
essenbe

Windows 7 Enterprise X64/Windows 10 Enterprise X64/Windows 10 Pro X64/Linux Mint
 
 

I think it is too hard to call anything. But I also think, if you can't get it to run you can't test to see what is wrong. I also think you can replace 1 part at a time until you have spent a lot more money than the computer is worth. If you are using the computer as just surfing and such, I would try a better CPU than what you have, if it were me. maybe a PhenomII X4 which I believe will work in that board. So, if it turns out to be the board, you can still use the CPU and get a new board, if you are going that route. I would not buy anything that cannot be used later. Maybe it's just me. But, I have a philosophy that I will not buy a part for my computer unless it makes it better, faster or something like that. I realize you are not looking for a top of the line computer. But, the Phenom IIx4 is not a top of the line CPU, but is much better than what you have and parts that are compatible with it are not that hard to find. They are reasonably cheap and offer much better performance. That's just my personal opinion. And, I'm not saying it is your CPU. That is what the dump files show, but, I'm sure you know, that a lot of other things can cause your CPU to malfunction even though the CPU is not at fault. That's just my opinion. But, you are in the position where you have to do something. You, I think, have tested the memory and the PSU and they 'seem' to be OK. In the scheme of things, CPUs rarely go bad unless abused with high voltage or high heat. Motherboards are quite different. They can go bad for no reason at all. You asked my opinion and I gave it to you. But, it is just my opinion. But, I would not buy anything I could not use in the event I found myself in the position where I had to build a new computer. That's my opinion, and opinions are like noses, everyone has one.

EDIT: you are in a bad position. As I see it, the error codes point to hardware. The dump files point to the CPU. All or most of the hardware is working in safe mode. That leads me to believe software or drivers. If you don't know, safe mode loads only the necessary drivers for wndows to function, but none of the software drivers. It runs fine, which indicates software or drivers. But when you try to do a clean install you BSOD which tends to lead back to hardware. Have you tried to do a clean install with no other hard drives connected except the one you are installing to? If not I would try that and try to be sure it is a known good hard drive. It is a difficult position to be in, I understand.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
22 Sep 2013   #29
ICIT2LOL

Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by nopk View Post
Electronics tech with many years experience.. so I wont be dying to a switching power supply today

Orange - 3.353 +/- 1mv.
Yellow - 12.1 - 12.4
Red - 5.10 +/- 10mv
Grey - 5.05-5.15

No major fluctuation on any when BSOD occurs... at least not within the resolution of my DMM.
Nope that is fine nopk the volts at pin 8 should be between 2.4 and 6v according to Scott Mueller's text. The other volts are as you know fine. The only thing I get concerned with is the amps delivered because as I usually quote you can have a car with 12 - 13v at the terminals and yet not enough charge (amps) to swing the engine and still operate the ignition and other circuits.

I am with essenbe on the component stuff and personally I would myself start from scratch but each to his own eh?
My System SpecsSystem Spec
22 Sep 2013   #30
essenbe

Windows 7 Enterprise X64/Windows 10 Enterprise X64/Windows 10 Pro X64/Linux Mint
 
 

Good luck, nopk, I hope whatever you decide to do works out for you. If you need help, this is the place to come. If you would like my help, feel free to contact me.
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 Random reboots, once a day or two.




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