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#41
I agree with YoYo mate try this PSU - Jump Start
test the volts on all leads they must be between 11.4 and 12.6v - just remember correct volts do not mean correct current (amps / therefore watts)
I agree with YoYo mate try this PSU - Jump Start
test the volts on all leads they must be between 11.4 and 12.6v - just remember correct volts do not mean correct current (amps / therefore watts)
Now my BSOD's don't even automatically restart my computer, when I see it there's always been a lot of white text on the entire screen, not just a few lines.
This is the PSU I purchased last December CORSAIR TX Series CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Power Supply - Newegg.com
I don't think my computer is unstable, because it was running fine for a few months, and I'm sure the bsod's are a software issue, I'm guessing they happened when I updated my nvidia drivers, because this problem had never occured before, and I'm trying to find a concrete reason to why I keep getting them, but it happens randomly, sometimes I download a GIF and it crashes, or I close my internet browser and it crashes, or it loads a new graphic on the screen, and it's for multiple reasons, it just seems to lock up and crash whenever it feels like it. I think my PSU can support my system and the temperatures are fine, so I can't really find a pattern here, other than I must've done something wrong along the way.
As far as the PSU Calculator, it's a bit confusing and when I filled it in it wouldn't let me hit calculate for some reason. Maybe I am missing an option or something.
and @ICit2lol I've actually jump started my PSU before I even put it into my case when I first built this machine back in September, if you really think it's my PSU I could try it, but I read the Warning that it could kill me so I would rather not try that method.
Well that kill you only applies if you dismantle the device or poke conductive things into the inside mate. There are large capacitors in there that store high voltages they are the components that will and can kill.
Testing the leads is not going to kill you at worst if you were stupid enough to put your tongue on a 12v rail you would get a very unpleasant zap.
But the choice is yours I guess. By the same token just because the device is new doesn't mean some component has gone bad in that short time not all PSU's are manufactured to a high standard.
Can you check if new dumps were flushed to disk (if new dumps were created) since now you say
that it doesn't auto-restart anymore.
The should be located at;
This is what I got when I ran your system through the PSU calculator;Code:C:\Windows\Minidump
Attachment 290065
Your PSU should be of a high enough standard to sustain this kind of workload, but we have to consider
what ICit2lol has mentioned above,As it is a viable option as well.By the same token just because the device is new doesn't mean some component has gone bad in that short time not all PSU's are manufactured to a high standard.
Test for thermals and stability:
- Download Speccy and post a Screenshot of the summary window, one at idle and another while putting load on the PC using Prime95 for the CPU side and Furmark for the GPU.
- Before running Prime95 make sure to enable Round-off checking (see 1st post under the tutorial).
Reset the BIOS back to default in case you're unaware that your CPU is overclocked:
NoteWrite down the current value of the SATA Mode!
Its either AHCI or IDE.
After resetting the CMOS go back and verify the value for SATA Mode is what it was
when the OS was installed.
NoteIf any component is overclocked reset it back to stock speeds!
Seeing that you said you can't find a pattern and it bugchecks during random (seemingly simple tasks)
could also indicate an infection.
- Download TDSS-Killer and scan for rootkits.
- Download Windows Defender Offline and scan for other types of infections.
- Follow this tutorial on how to use the SFC/ SCANNOW tool in Windows.