stop 0x00000f4 and Live Kernal Event (BCcode 116) while gaming

James27 · 22 Jun 2015

I can tell you the wattage is 600. But apart from that and the numbers I mentioned, there was nothing else. I bought it from a website that builds custom PCs, but that was years ago. I can't remember it for the life of me.

essenbe · 22 Jun 2015

This is what you should have on the PSU. If not, I would think someone is trying to hide something.

Attachment 363633

Arc · 22 Jun 2015

James27 said:

The driver verifier and manual crash were suggested to me elsewhere.

I dont know where .... I dont want to know too .... but better you dont continue there as long as you are continuing here, with us.

Both were goalless and meaningless suggestions which will not add anything positive to the issue but lots of negative. Please dont mix up those odd ans meaningless suggestions with what you are having from here.

James27 · 23 Jun 2015

So I had another look for the make and model and... I found them! Don't know how I missed them before, but here it is.

So the Make is Storm, and Model number is LPK19-30. Also, don't know if it will be useful, but I took note of the Amp values. 3.3v = 32A. 5v = 40A. 12v = 24A.

essenbe · 23 Jun 2015

Would you check those numbers again? That PSU is not a very high quality PSU. What those numbers say is that on your 12V rail, it will max out at 288 Watts, which your card can pull more than that. More than your card runs off the 12V rail too. According to Anandtech (Power, Temperature, & Noise - The NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 Review: Featuring EVGA) a 970 can pull over 300 Watts at max power draw. Nvidia requires a minimum of 28 amps on the 12V rail.

I can't say that is the cause of all your problems, but it very well could be much of the problem. I would get a quality PSU such as Seasonic, Corsair, EVGA, Antec or XFX, and get a larger size that the minimum.

James27 · 23 Jun 2015

Thanks a lot. I'd really rather not have to check again though. It's a pretty big hassle since the info is on the opposite side to where I take off the case, meaning I need to unscrew the PSU it and take it out to have a look. But as I said, I did get it a good few years ago so it doesn't surprise me it's not very high quality. Luckily, payday will be arriving soon, so I'm thinking I'll buy a new one then and get back to you.

essenbe · 23 Jun 2015

OK, but again. I am not saying that will solve all of your problems, but it could be the cause of some of them. If you look at the picture I showed of the sticker you will see some things. I realize that PSU is larger than yours, but it is a 1200 Watt PSU. It shows 100.4 Amps on the +12V rail. Which means the 12V rail will put out 1204 Watts out of the 1200 it is rated at. Yours will put out less than 50% of it's rating. Now, to be fair, I believe ( but not factually) the +5V and +3.3V are split off the +12V rail, which means I still have over 1000 Watts from the 12V.

James27 · 24 Jun 2015

So I've decided to go with this one (semi-modular one), but I'm debating between the 750w one or the 850w. I realize it's kinda cheeky asking this, but I wanted to double check would 750w be enough for a system like mine? I mean it looks more than good enough to me, but... could be wrong.

essenbe · 24 Jun 2015

Yes, that will be good for you. If you will click tech specs on this link CX Seriesâ„¢ Modular CX750M ATX Power Supply â€” 750 Watt 80 PLUSÂ® Bronze Certified Modular PSU You will see the differences in amps and watts compared to what you have now. You currently have 24 Amps on the +12V rail, the Corsair has 62 Amps on the 12V rail. Quite a difference, don't you think? Save your receipt from Amazon. They will ask for it if something goes wrong, but Corsair's warranty is quite good and they are usually very good at replacing anything defective.

essenbe · 24 Jun 2015

I would also like you to run Seatools for DOS both the Long and the short test.SeaTools for DOS and Windows - How to Use