Plastic Repair

No, but I'm somewhat familiar with it, however my knowledge of it is more about using it on metallic surfaces, rather than plastic. The Plastic Welder that I mentioned is a VersaChem product. I don't know how good it is, but I have heard mentioned a number of times before, so I figure it is worth a shot.

Epoxy probably won't stick to the ABS very well. I've tried making repairs using fiberglass/resin and it doesn't hold for long. You'll need to use a solvent glue like pipe cement. There's more often than not, a oil-based mold release on the panels too. Clean the area with solvent before using the glue.

Won't know until I try it, but the first item on the list for application is ABS. I don't see the term epoxy anywhere on the packaging, but I suspect that it is one. At least it comes in a two part ejector, which requires mixing prior to application. It also mentions bonding metal to plastic, so I may try putting a metal washer sandwiched between the plastic components.

It doesn't say anything about using a cleaning solvent, only to roughen the surfaces first.

All of the methods that heat two plastic surfaces for joining require that both surfaces are raised a bit above their melting points. Those melted surfaces are then brought together, under pressure, and cooled. If done properly, as in plastic pipe, the welded areas are stronger than the original cross-section. ABS typically melts at around 220F (if memory still serves). The welding technique, whether done via sonic welding, heated plates, hot air, etc., must be done properly or the surfaces won't bond. If the surfaces aren't melted deeply enough (heated too fast), then proper mixing of the two can't occur when pressed. And if the surfaces become too hot, then degradation occurs and the surfaces will not bond. If you do attempt a contact heating method, , like a soldering iron, then the best surface temperature range for ABS welding is roughly 350-450F. Sonic welding works best on two flat, parallel surfaces, and may not be applicable here.

That said, I'm thinking that you can go to web sites for the primary plastic sheet suppliers, and get their recommendations for ABS solvents and adhesives. They probably sell adhesives and have product data sheets online, or can email them to your attention. Those data sheets should have descriptions of how to apply the adhesive, along with information on expected results. If you google "plastic sheet", you'll see several suppliers (see below for link). I'd pull up the web sites for the larger ones, like Tap Plastics or US Plastics Corp. to get phone numbers. Ask for technical assistance with bonding, and they should get you to an appropriate resource.

plastic sheet - Google Search

Thanks, but I've ruled out sonic welding due to cost factors. I'm not certain if I should apply your comments regarding temperature sensitivity to using a soldering iron or not? I know that the soldering iron that I have doesn't have any kind of temperature control, so I guess that I would need another one. How accurate are those types on their temperature control usually?

I Googled for the temperature factors on ABS, and this is what I found:

1. Maximum Temperature: 176°F 80°C

2. Minimum Temperature: -4°F -20°C

3. Autoclavable: No

4. Melting Point: 221°F 105°C

5.Tensile Strength: 4,300 ps

The tensile strength of Plastic Welder is only 3500 psi, so I guess it would be the weakest link.

Somewhere on the packagte it should say the surface should be free of oil, dirt, dust, rust or some similar phrase. Just trying to save you a headache but I'm betting the fix detaches. In any case, good luck with it.

Not all plastics are equal. Plastic Welder does warn that it doesn't work on polyethylene or polypropylene plastics, but it does list fiberglass, among others on it list of appropriate uses. I'm not saying that it wouldn't be a good idea to clean the surfaces as you suggested first, only that the packaging of the product doesn't say anything regarding it. Still, all insights and opinions are welcome.