Any Vapers?

A lot depends on the tank as well as the ejuice in it. Some will find 6-7w adequate if they are running an older DCT or BCC type tank while the latest sub ohm models easily range about 20-40w. With certain menthols or mints that may get dropped to 15w while some berry caramel blends or other desert flavors can be put up around 40-50w in the same tank.

As for 18650s and charging while left in the mod some mods make it a major project to get the battery out while others like the latest DovPo 50w Mini mod have a magnetic battery compartment cover for ease of removal. The DovPo E-LVT use a form of allen head type driver. For usb charging the 5v port on a Sharp alarm clock I may have posted a link for earlier suffices well while I wouldn't make a habit of charging any 18350s, 18500s, 18650s, or even 26650s off a typical pc usb port in contrast. I popped one side(two ports) of a 4 port hub when going to charge a cell phone once too many times from the hub.

The main problem there is simply too high a current a battery will try and pull. Many of the updated mods that allow this have protection circuits, reverse polartiy, and lately temp sensors in some that will cut the charging off High Drain batteries are what are used in the few of that type here. For the Vamo fire, BEC Pro, pair of Vamo V5, V6 the 18650s along with the 18350s used in a pair of e-pipes are simply charged in a Nitecore Digicharger D4 while none of the batteries get hot when charged in the mods themselves. Mech mods on the other hand will lack the protections and many skip getting a safety fuse.

Now for the 4200mah I have run into recently as well as the 5000mah 18650s the 5000s are made by UltraFire and not the better rated brand. I ran into a 4 pack on Amazon where the seller carried them unbranded sold as generic but still the exact as those with the brand name stamped on the side. 18650s, 18xxx, 26xxx type batteries are mainly flashlight batteries to begin with used by security guards, rescue personal, etc. since the batteries are recharged constantly. With mods especially mechs the batteries with the higher amps are generally 1200-2200mah to start with. The Panasonic HDs are about 10A at best while the 5000s are likely allowing for 7 or 8A at best. Not for mechs or high wattage devices!

Now besides the Vamo V2 being the first VV/VW type device it was over a year after starting to vape still lighting up during the first 6 months until I started getting into the better tanks as well as the VW batteries and mods. The Innokin iTaste VV v3.0 for example falls into the catagory Wishmaster was pointing to as far as 6-11w being the range for the 700mah battery, The Innokin MVP2.0 seeing a 2200mah sealed battery in the box style mod saw the same range while the 18650 VTR I mentioned was to see 3-15w like the Vamo and later Smoktech's SMOK Groove II cheapie mod with a 3800mah sealed battery.

As for the contrast of regulated versus mechs those who rebuild RBAs, RDAs, etc. will usually prefer the mechs and the higher amp batteries and simply use the resistance factor to control the output. For the novice or not so elaborate who doesn't want the duss as I am not looking for cloud performance here only a reasonable increase in vapor and flavor production the regulated mods being seen now have been making some serious headway compared to what had been seen mid 2013 thru the summer of 2014.

The iSticks saw the 20w version receive complaints about easy to strip threads and a fire button that rattles or got stuck. The 30w and better 50w models have stainless steel threading and the 50w offers the temp sensor. iSmoka listened to the feedback and then made the necessary improvements. Tanks have still been seeing some duds like the Eleaf Melo sub ohm with an aluminum body and garbage AFC while Aspire, Kanger, Horizon come in as the leading three with their sub ohm. Others may simply be rebranded clones.

I wouldn't knock higher wattages too quickly. With the tank and atomizer or coil in use things can be rather different then first assumed. If you have an older BCC tank like a Viva Nova or a SMOK Tumbler with a typical 2, 2.4ohm coil you may run that at 10w and no higher since the coil gets too hot.

With an RDA or one of the newer tanks like an Aspire Nautilus or Atlantis sub ohm that newer 20-50w is no longer an unusable commodity but something in use every day. The Atlantis at 20-30w feels like a Tumbler at 7-10w but benefits from the increased vapor and more robust flavor. You don't get a hot vapor at 40w with an Atlantis with a number of flavors you would see at 11w using a Tumbler on a 3-15w Vamo. Speaking of newer tanks and going even higher then 50w here's the info on the latest now seen for sub ohm tanks. Starre Sub-Ohm Tank by Freemax

Starre Tank Features:

• Dual Vertical Coils (DVC) – first in the world
• Working wattage: 20W-100W
• Working voltage: 3-6V
• Sub-ohm resistance: 0.25ohm/0.5ohm
• Capacity: 5ml
• SUS304 Grade Stainless Steel
• Glass tube
• Medical grade cotton
• USA-made coil wire
• Size: 74.8mm(L)*22.00mm(D)

20w all the way upto 100w which is now more commonly seen for all the new mods coming out. The non geek RDA, RBA building champ for cloud vaping skill not required. The average vaper can now turn things up a bit to get that little bit more out of each puff. You no longer need to take a 10min. draw to get a good vape going since the not so much cloud chaser but improvements in vapor production are now being realized.


As for clones not everything labeled clone is made by some lesser quality company but more often something familiar being sold under a different brand name or simply found with a generic wrap like being shipped in a plain unbranded box for a lower price as I have seen with eGo VV/VW batteries. One good example was a Canadian vendor who was carrying the eGo-V V3 Mega 1300mah VV/VW batteries for $24 under GreenVaper while most US were carrying the same under SLB for $35-$40. In a plain unbrand box one US vendor carried them for $30.


At Fasttech a rather notable vendor out of Hong Kong the Eleaf 20w mod was also being carried as the Smart 20 mainly to be sold in a different market such as certain regions that wouldn't any seemingly sold in US brands to be imported? They are the same exact original iStick but with a brand name change.



With other devices tanks, hardwares however you may not run into that and end up with something that stinks! One Big Dripper clone for the Big Dripper RDA tank I ran into on Amazon wasn't even worth the time to look at it! When the coils two preformed were fastened inplace NADA! Nothing happened! It wouldn't even fire later when the two preformed coils were replaced with ones I made up. So the best advice is to look real close at what is labeled clone and cross check things before getting burned. The most commonly cloned items will generally be eGo type batteries which are only made by a coupld of Chinese manufacturers to begin with but sold in all markets and with fancy designs. Those will still be eGo battteries. For better name tanks and devices "Genuine" preferred is the usual recommend.

@xips

I guess it depends on what you expect from your gear.
For me personally, yes it WAY over excessive. And its bulky, making it second choice when going out.

But that doesn't mean I dislike or wouldn't recommend them. Solid devices and worth having.


I find Ive been using 2 different builds the most. .6-.9 Ohm build with 26G and a 1.3 Ohm build using 28G.

On the Sub Ohm, I tend to run around 20-25W or so.
On the 1.3ish around 15W (Sometimes 12)

So, yea, 100 is useless for me BUT ... The dual 18650s really last awhile the way I use it. I just charged it up this morning. After just short of 2 days running, it was down to 16% charge.


I could have got by with a 30 - 70W mod Im sure, like the iPV 2 Mini. But I wanted the dual batteries.
That and the fact this thing will fire pretty much anything Im in the mood to build, and whatever wattage, was what sold me.

Its a solid little device and i love it but it is a bit bulky.


if you are interested in one, especially if itll be your only device, watch some videos but more importantly go to a local vape shop and physically hold one. You may find it perfect or too bulky.

When Im out and about, I take my Provari v2 and kayfun setup. At home, I use the Segelei and SubTank. The Segelei doesnt fit in pockets that easily like the Provari does..
Another thing, if interested in them, make sure you get the 'PLUS" version. The Plus has the spring loaded 510. The regular version doesnt and was problematic with the 510 connections at times.


On the Provari/Kayfun lately Ive been running 1.4Ohm (28g) @12 watts. (The ballpark for this setups sweet spot IMHO)

I have the v2.5 Provari which is voltage only. But they recently came out with the P3 which does volt and watt. Its a bit pricey though.

Then they just released a 2105 Clossic Provari that has wattage and voltage settings as well. A bit cheaper, but still pricey compared to others with similar features.
Still, Im a Provari fan. because what they lack in features, they make up for in build quality. These things are built like a truck and will last.
2015 Classic ProVari: Variable Voltage/Wattage Ecig

major downside, they wont fire much below .9 OHm. So serious sub ohm ing is not its things. But for lower resistance builds, 1.2-1.5 PERFECT.

A friend had mentioned I could still run the SMY God Mod 180w triple 18650 powered box mod down at 7w-15w if I wanted when I was first looking at the single 18650 battery deals. With the collection here I have Several Vamo type APVs set up as well as simply carrying the 50w iStick when out on the go. Originally priced for over $100 saw that one marked down to $75 at the time and presently seen for $85-.

The 4400mah battery time with the iStick 50W eliminates any need for recharge concerns plus having a second to run as a spare when charging the other. That one will fire as low as 0.2ohm as well as providing the stainless spring loaded 510 connector. I run that about 2-3days before the battery level will finally start to drop compared to trying to run with just one 18650 powered device. At home however I will have multiple devices running a few at the pc desk as well as on the tv stand while still carrying one of the iSticks in a pocket.

For the longest time with any mech or regulated mod like one of the older Vamo models V2-V4 you only saw 3-15w as the maximum range while the mechs are calculated according to ohms and the amps a battery or two would provide. The regular tanks would tend to fail with anything over 10-12w until the better stuff now seen first start arriving a year ago. Sigelei and a few others were the first to top the 25w arena before the onslaught of 100w, 150w, 260w mods become who could be first. Lately however the trend has improved with the wider selection of 20-50w, 65w, 70w devices.

Finally the tanks are starting to play catch up to the wattages being seen. The ejuice you put into a tank will play a large role as well. I've some running in the Nautilus tanks over 20w with 1.6, 1.8ohm coils in those. The key however is finding that infinite "sweet spot" regardless of what gear you are using for each flavor/brand.

Nice cloud!

Gee that must be a mushroom flavor!

The vendor I order from doesn't require any steep time. The flavors are ready to vape out of the bottle. They will start to darken up after a good period of time however.