Any Vapers?

paulpicks21 said:

Well that explains that then lol.

Now Vamo V6. Thinking of ordering one tomorrow as a kit which comes with 2 different size batteries and a charger as apposed to the one on it's own in this link. No variable Voltage, just Variable Wattage, is that an issue? Discuss.

$28.49 Vamo V6 Variable Wattage APV Mod - 3W-20W / stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

They went up about $2 since the last time I checked at Fasttech. They were $26- something. You can run either with a single 18650 or a pair of 18650s with the battery extension on or a single 18350 with that removed by taking the cover off of the bottom of the extension to fasten onto the then bottom of the main body. The V7 and V8 are also out now with the V7 being an updated version of the V5 seen at Original Vamo V V / V W mod Vamo V7 Various colors for vamo vv e-cig Vamo V5 Vamo V7, View Vamo V7, FreeVape Product Details from Shenzhen FreeVape Technology Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com

That comes in a variety of colors and is still a variable voltage/wattage 3w-15w model. The V8 on the other hand is strictly VW not VV and only runs with a single 18650 battery being a 3w-25w version. The slightly higher wattage range requires the 18650 size and the best for both the V6 20w and V8 25w APVs are High Drain 3100mAH 18650s. The V8 however lacks the adjustable center contact pin and "Smoke Time" setting that adjusts the cutoff time from 0-30 seconds the V6 features.

The one thing to know about the V6 if you intent on one is you have to work fast when trying to go through the menu options or it will go dark on you which is simply a split second exit out of the menu where you would then have to bring it up again. You only have a few seconds initially to enter one of the menu options and then can adjust things the way you want them. That was the only drawback I found when first getting the V6 in. The Smoke Time(Puff Time Adjuster I call it) and adjustable center contact pin are what make up for that however. Sometimes a replacement coil won't reach far enough unless overtightened to make a good contact where you can then raise the center up. :)

I've been finding some good prices for the HD as well as other Panasonic 18650s at Orbtronic who specializes in flashlight batteries since that is what this type of battery was originally designed for. Security guards, police, etc. often will carry this type for the longer life type of battery over even the new Duracell Quantum batteries(AA, AAA) they provided various police dept.s with when those were first available for feedback from actual use.
18650 3100mAh Panasonic Industrial Li-ion Battery Cell NCR18650A is what I have to use in the Innokin VTR since that requires the flat top battery while a Vamo will take button tops as well. In fact more batteries like eFest brand which are fatter in diameter usually will actually fit into a Vamo over other mods! I have some Smok ACEs and another basic tube mod made of aluminum that won't take any eFest brand for that reason alone!

How about some 5000mah batteries? With the High Drain when the battery level is down they can run a mod at 2.5v to some extent increasing the time before needing to be recharged when you see them often at 1600-2200mah. 2900-3400 for the non HD is the usual longest life batteries until I ran into a place called TMart and have been using the 5000mah batteries ordered from there. Still have to check out the UltraFire 5000s I didn't see at first when grabbing four of the unbranded blue likely UltraFire generic which have worked well so far for a 4pack at $7.59. The page to look is seen at
5000mah 18650 batteries | Search Results : Tmart

I added this in here to mention that the V2 I had I ended passing along to someone in need with the pre V5 models lacking the eGo threading. And the waist line will expand a bit for sure when you quit as I mentioned earlier in the thread. I was under and now a bit over as the belt line will soon let you know as that food starts tasting better and better! Additional walks or exercise to burn calories can help balance things out a bit! :)

Dude said:

I'm not sure if it's different or they just call it variable voltage instead of volts. I'm doing good, right at two weeks cig free. Spoke with my better half (The wife) and she is going to give vaping a go soon :)

Here is some info on the comparison

https://www.misthub.com/blog/tutoria...ge-for-e-cigs/

There's quite a difference most people do not understand when first new to vaping about voltage vs wattage. Most tanks and clearomizers are geared to run on eGo type 3.7v batteries while some APVs like the Innokin iTaste MVP start off at 7watts which raises the voltage up a bit to 4v. Many tanks run best at 3.9-4.2v with some maxing at 4.4v or higher even such as RDA rebuildable dripper atomizers as they are referred to. Those are what people wrap the coils with on their own for various resistances and the goal there is to put large clouds when vaping! YouTube is loaded with cloud vaping clips! In some cases it's as if some were looking for bragging rights?! if not show pieces.

For the practical every day side however turning up the watts a bit on the other hand is not just to see larger clouds of vapor but to change how a flavor will taste. With the cigarette size ecigs most do not see much of any type of cloud but tend to be sweeter in taste. The higher wattage will raise the temps on the vapor in increments to adjust the flavor so if you find something too sweet and step it up a little you then suddenly find it preferable!

For the Vamo and several other VV/VW type batteries and mods those allow you to adjust the voltage separately from the wattage while others will automatically adjust voltage when changing the wattage output since those automatically detect the ohms of the coil or atomizer attached. Keeps it from cooking the coil or atomizer as one protection there. The V6 like the Innokin 134 are auto on the voltage part.

The new Smok Aro Winder 1600 and 2000mah batteries are variable Wattage but adjust using the same type of knob found on the other variable V batteries like Vision Spinner and eGo Twists. Those show the voltage as well as watts with the markings on the dial however and adjust voltage with the wattage. The Winders I find are best for the beginner over the more complicated mods since the adjuster simplies things. Another advantage of having a VV or VV/VW type battery or mod is being able to turn it down under the 3.7v standard for those who prefer the cooler vape. While the MVP and a few others start off at 7watts for example the Vamo, Twists, Spinners, Winders, and other VV batteries start off at 3.2v or with the V1-V5 Vamos at 3.3v.

The link there is a good reference from that vendor as well as looking over a few safe vaping charts that have been made up over the last few years in particular. Another site for some good information about batteries in general can be found at Basic to Advanced Battery Information from Battery University

Now for safe vaping charts the best reference since are some for voltage and others for wattage is where? Bing images of course! You can bring up each chart as if it was a jpeg at the search result site and still be able to read over each one.

In a sense, variable wattage and variable voltage are the same thing.
You just need to know the atty ohms to do the math.

I typically stay with voltage, but many prefer wattage.
For example, lets say you have a 1.5 Ohm atty:
If you go to wattage mode and set it to run at 11 watts, the unit will adjust as such. You will be at 11 watts and thats approximately 4.0 volts.
If you go to variable voltage, and set it to run at 4.0 volts, the unit does all the settings. It will come out to 4volts and approx 11 watts.

Alot will depend on your mod and alot on the coil/wick set up as where to set it and what to use. And as mentioned, the flavor you are using. All these things combined will have a impact on vapor and flavor vs what setting to use. Its a bit of trial and error and a LOT of personal preference.

I have a strawberry/custard flavor for example. I get the best flavor from it ion a 1.2-1.3 Ohm coil and 4.4Volts.
With Deadly Sin, I think the best flavor is around 4.0 volts on that same coil/wick build.
Others will disagree and say higher Ohm atty with more power. Or far less power, lower Ohm build.. Thats where the personal preference comes in.

Depending how your mod is designed, you may get more acurate tuning with wattage setting, it it may be better with voltage.
My Provari only has variable voltage, and does .1 increments from 2.9-6.0 volts.
But my LavaTube does both. With it, Voltage increases in increments of .1 (with a more narrow range) while wattage goes in increments of .5


Anyway, the point Im making with all the babble is that if you find a nice mod that will only offer variable voltage, or wattage, not both, you'll be fine with either. Both is nice, sure, but not a deal breaker if it doesnt offer both.
They both have the same impact, just a different way of getting there. Although some may prefer wattage over voltage or whatever. Im fine with voltage only myself.

Thanks Hawk and Wishmaster for all the information.

I ordered the V6 earlier. I think I should have it by Thursday.

I have the MVP2 which has both, I've played around with it and it's kind of like Wishmaster says, when you change one, the other one changes too. So it almost seems it doesn't matter which one you use, it's all the same. I use Deadly Sin with 1.8 OHM coils and 4.5 Volts. Doug's chart says that's too much, but it's the way I prefer it, so...

essenbe said:

I have the MVP2 which has both, I've played around with it and it's kind of like Wishmaster says, when you change one, the other one changes too. So it almost seems it doesn't matter which one you use, it's all the same. I use Deadly Sin with 1.8 OHM coils and 4.5 Volts. Doug's chart says that's too much, but it's the way I prefer it, so...

I also have an MVP2 and also use Deadly sin and also vape it at 4.5 Volts on a 1.8 OHM coil. What tank do you use? I use a Nautilus Mini. Don't even tell me you use a Nautilus Mini too! I think you might be me or I am you?

If Im not mistaken, most of these variable mods have limiters. I know my Provari and lavaTube do, and im sure the MVPs do as well.

It should error out or refuse to fire if you are putting to much juice through. Or enough to burn out the coil.
The only time you really need to watch is with a mechanical mod that has no limiter and will go sub ohm. These will happily burn a coil out.

I could be wrong here, but Im fairly certain thats how it works.


Of course its just like overclocking. Sure it'll run and run well, but you are also reducing the lifespan of the coil/wick. So, the more juice you pump through that coil, the shorter its lifespan will be.
Although that may not be a factor for many of us, it may matter to some.

I have noticed I need to rebuild more often when Im running very high voltage for long periods of time. But its not a huge difference.
A typical 2 week lifespan build, (based on 3.8-4.0v) gets cut down to about a week or a little better when constantly running 4.5 or higher.

But I dont think 4.5v is too much. Again though, those Ohms make a difference in figuring this out. This is why I don't think its too much.
4.5V @ 1.8 Ohm = 11.25 Watts
4.0V @ 1.3 Ohm = 12.3 watts (where Im at currently) So when I crank it up it really starts to reduce that lifespan. 15-16 watts or so around 4.4-4.5

I think 4.5 on 1.8Ohm is pretty close to the sweet spot TBH. 11-13watts is perfect for most flavors, save a few. Well, to my personal taste anyway.

What I found here was a bit to the opposite actually. Each of course will have their own preferences. But when getting into the eGo-C Twists following the Vamo V2 my first VV/VW mod the vape was different even with the Twists turned up over what I got from the Vamo.

It's not only voltage vs wattage but amperage it will seem I notice from going back and forth actually taking the same tank and moving it around between Vamo, MVP, iTaste VV V3.0s I have, the VTR, and the aluminum bodied Smok ACEs, and then comparing the vape from each against each other as well as the Vision Spinner, Twists, and now the Smok Aro Winders that are supposed to be VW but have the voltage fixed along with it like the watts would move with the voltage change on a VV battery.

Now here's where the interesting stuff comes into play. With a Vamo or one of the other VW batteries but not the V6 however you can set the voltage to 3.8v while the wattage is turned up to 10watts! On a fixed adjuster you see the opposite where the V moves with the W or vice versa. This is where the difference comes into play as far as the overall effect on flavor as well as vapor output.

You can turn up the watts without exceeding the max voltage of the coil or atomizer provided you don't go well above the rating for each resistance. The brand and type of coil/atomizer can also play a large role there too as well as the ejuice you select. With some flavors like menthol blends like Spearmint or Wintergreen blend with menthol the vapor output won't be as great as say a fruit punch on the exact same hardwares keeping in mind the PG/VG ratio is the same for all.

With tanks some tanks can be cranked up all day with any flavor and not see much of anything while the next tank with the same resistance for the coil will put a cloud in the room! With some things turning the volts up to 4.4v will cook the flavor where you are getting a burnt taste or hot vaper while the watts can go up like I found 10w works well for one flavor at 3.8v and the vapor doesn't burn your face off! Yet I run most at 7watts on the V5 while the V6 I need that I find at 8watts with the same tank and flavor in it. Different things will have different effects on flavor as well as output.

Adding further since we missed each other's post Wishmaster most of the time the limiter you mention refers to how low in the ohms dept. a particular device will allow since many are now using RDA type atomizers that you wrap yourself with different gauges of wire sold for the DIYers. The sub ohming allows a cloud of vapor on a 3.7v mech mod(mechanical with variable V or W options). Some won't go under 1 ohm while some of the latest coming out now like 50w to 180w! allow as low as point 3 ohms or .3ohms resistance without a problem. Yet when actually turning things up you would normally have to go higher on the resistance to compensate.

Ok, I may have the limiter issue wrong then. thanks!
And yes, my Provari for example refuses to fire below 1.2. Well, it will, but the lowest has to be 1.15-1.2.
But closer to 1.1 is a no go.

But don't most of them scale the voltage/wattage?
I know when you start getting into Amperage etc it gets a bit complicated. At least for me. I have the calculator to figure it out, and know my Provari sets a 3.5amp limit but thats about it lol.
Essentially it will let my set anywhere in range so long as the amperage doesn't exceed 3.5.

Well this is difference between fixed variable batteries and mods(Vamo, MVP, VTR, ZMax, Provari, you name it) running with the 18xxx or 26650 type batteries. The 18650s for example also vary on what those can handle since one will be a standard while another may be a High Drain often more suitable for sub ohming and mech mods. Since most Mechs are without a variable chip they have add in controllers you can get as well as safety fuses.

With the variety of both 18xxx batteries and 26650s as far as the HD some go up as high as 35amps total while you never see that pushed out entirely in one shot since that would fry anything! in say a one second burst of the entire battery. But with mods lacking protection you can see why they have fuses available.

The idea behind the higher amps for a high drain type is while the battery power level will start dropping below the initial 3.7v down for many as low as 2.5v before recharge is required they can still pump some amperage out when sub ohming on mechanical. I'm still in kind of the intermediary stage at this point still since I haven't gone into any of that however.

In fact I just saw one event scheduled by one of the vendors I order from that has a chain of stores holding a vaping contest to see who can make the largest cloud sub ohming! But you would need to look up the various discussion sites that have guides or browse the social networks(FaceBook loaded with vaping groups many being vendors) where this type of discussions are countless.

Some of the vendors build their own custom made mods to sell for things like that. Here getting people started after first getting them to take a better look at vaping is one reason I collect the variables for a few reasons while not intent on going extreme. I find the giant clouds for most don't always hold much interest unlike your typical gaming pc being oced!

If they are not some vendor carrying RDAs and other build your own stuff or the occasional vaper who wants to be a little more enthusiastic about things they tend to simply stay with the premade coils and prefer a cooler vape where you get a lean towards more flavor.

One thing I can add here is a guide on how to start off with the caution that sub ohming is intended for the advanced not the beginner. http://www.vapeonmadison.com/page/ca...ohm-safety.php

I know on my Provari they warn not to use just any 18650 battery. they specically say it must be a High Drain IMR, with a button on the positive post.

I haven't tried any of the sub ohm stuff but something I may tinker with at a later time.
For now 1.2 and up does fine for me.


Although on my Russian RTA I have, I modded it by drilling the air holes out a bit bigger. Put it on the Provari with some 70VG juice, 1.2Ohm dual coil build, and it really makes the clouds. Chokes me up at times even LOL.

Not sure how anyone can do this in the sub ohm area and take it TBH. If the Russian was Sub Ohm it probably put out twice as much vapor which would be too much for me. Dual coils at 1.2 is a bit much, but fun to play with.