New
#951
The vaping charts still seen at this time are now a bit outdated depending on what you use for hardwares. The thing I like here about APVs where you can keep the volts down when raising the watts is to not end up burning something out. And one main problem too often is no maximums are specified since a half ohm coil now seen runs best between 30w and 50w.
A 0.5ohm coil for the new Atlantis tank handles 50w 10v while a Nautilus 1.6ohm gets hot at 15w 6.26v. Both tanks run dual vertical coils but are rated differently from older stuff like the 2ohm coils in a Smok Tumbler getting hot before hitting 12w. Most of the sub ohming so far is being seen on RDAs that are made to handle loads other atomizers simply can't since they are designed for certain applications.
The idea of increments is to take your time when starting out slowly until you find the "Sweet Spot" when turning something up as far as where the best vapor and taste meets approval. I suspect the coils for the Atlantis may reach 12v without issue but with the new stuff coming out at this time. What dual coils are like is having twin 10amp fuses in parallel to each other than can handle 20amps by dividing current not voltage.
The best thing you can do presently is take things one small step at a time not rushing where you end up cooking something. If your mod allows you to adjust the voltage separately then bumping up a tenth of a volt at a time to see how things go would be much better then simply cranking things all the way on the first try! Watts on the small stuff goes up in .5w increments while the larger 30w, 50w, 70w, 100w, God Mod 180w, and 260w mods all stick with the 1w increment since most will be using a rebuildable that will take the heat as well as the higher amperage seen with 12v and above on these newer mods.
Here running mostly with Tumblers for the last year coming into them in Oct. 2013 when looking into new tanks back then I tried those out on a 4.8v Vision Spinner as well as the eGo-C Twists along with the MVP 7w-12w mod, iTaste VV v3,0s, Smok ACEs 3.2v-5v, Vamos before passing the V2 along that 3.3v 3-15w same being seen with the Smok Groove II with the Tumbler left at 3.8v 7w or sometime 8 or 10w with certain flavors without raising the volts.
That of course changes now with the Vamo V6 and Eleaf iSticks both being Variable Wattage devices only seeing the voltage go up when the watts are increased and leaving me stuck often at 5w where the iStick shows 3.1v when trying to find the best spot on that mod. The V6 still stays at 7w however despite the volts going up due to that not seeing a sealed battery with a different amperage. Yes that plays a more important role behind the scenes you to figure out by math calculation once you find that sweet spot to know why you can have it here on one but not on the other.
When using the mods with the permanent sealed batteries over those that run with the replaceable rechargeables like 18650s, 18350s, 18500s, 26650s the effect at the same wattage and voltage settings when seeing both separated will be slightly different. When moving a tank from the VV/VW type battery onto a Vamo or one of the other mods a change is noticed in how things vape at times.
The charts and the guides explain the theories but not the actual real world results for each person with constantly changing hardwares. The best advice anyone can you there is to find those sweet spots where you see the best results according to your own personal satisfaction. Unfortunately the main obsticle seen with vaping gear is it not being like other technologies as far as the replacement parts(tanks, coils, etc.) go while the batteries and mods usually provide a bit more. The latest now show the minimum resistance requirement.