| Windows 7: Power Outage.. now computer won't turn on |
13 Aug 2010
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#11 | | MS Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit Austin, Texas |

Quote: Originally Posted by Kirsch There aren't any switches, but the first thing I am doing when I get home tonight is taking my screw driver and placing it in between the two links where the power switch cable plugs in, for my motherboard as far as I know that's the only way to bypass the switch 
I can only assume that you are joking. If not, then.... | My System Specs |
| System Manufacturer/Model Number Toshiba Satellite S875D-S7239 laptop OS MS Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit CPU AMD A10-4600M Motherboard AMD Pumori (Socket FT1) Memory 6.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-12-28) Graphics Card AMD Radeon HD 7660G Sound Card High Definition Audio Device Monitor(s) Displays Generic PnP Monitor (1600x900@60Hz) Screen Resolution 1600x900@60Hz Keyboard Standard PS/2 Keyboard Mouse HP Wireless Optical Mobile Mouse Model FHA-3410 Hard Drives SSD 119GB Corsair CSSD-V128GB2 ATA Device Internet Speed What the local pub, local coffee shop offers. Other Info Optical Drive:MATSHITA BD-CMB UJ160B ATA Device
Also have an Asus ha1002xp netbook with Win 7 Ultimate installed. |
13 Aug 2010
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#12 | | Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit NC |
Is there a light on the PSU (led) usually green, that when on the light is on? If not, that's the first clue that the PSU is bad. If it is on then it's the mobo or CPU or both have gotten fried.
TIP: Surge Protectors - do not skimp out on this piece of equipment. Get one with the highest joule rating you can find and they are not cheap. Your computer is a big investment and you don't want to rely on some $10 part protecting it. These surge protectors where out just like any other piece of equipment and need to be replaced. The general rule is replace it every 2 - 3 years. This seems a little costly but look at like this. It's an oil change for your electronics to keep them running smooth just like you do for your car/truck/van. Your supposed to change the oil every 3000 to 5000 miles depending on how you drive and at the DIY rate for parts and labor or pay some one $20 to $40 each time which can add up in a years time. It's a small price to pay for either but well worth it in the long run. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Custom built OS Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit CPU AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition Motherboard Gigabyte GA-MA790X-DS4 Memory GSkill 4 X 2 GB PC 8500 Graphics Card XFX Radeon HD 6790 D Sound Card On board RealTek HD Monitor(s) Displays Dual monitors:Samsung SyncMaster S20B300 Screen Resolution 1600 X 900 Keyboard Logitech G510 Mouse Razor DeathAdder PSU Ultra X4 750 watt fully modular Case Thermaltake Overseer RX 1 full tower Cooling Core-Contact 92 mm CPU Cooler Hard Drives Seagate Barracuda 1TB (primary)
Seagate Barracuda 2 X 320 GB Internet Speed 50/5 Mbps UL/DL Other Info Optical: Super Muliti DVD burner w/lightscribe, Hauppauge WinTV HVR-1800 |
13 Aug 2010
|
#13 | | Win7 x64 Ultimate SP1 So California |
It sounds at the minimum you PSU is fried. That is if you get no lights or fan action. Start there and hope for the best.
Good luck.
Ken | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Dell Optiplex 980 OS Win7 x64 Ultimate SP1 CPU Intel i7-2600 Memory 8 Gig Graphics Card Geforce gt 520 Monitor(s) Displays LG & Acer Screen Resolution 1920x1080 Internet Speed Fios 45/35 Other Info Windows Home Server |
13 Aug 2010
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#14 | | MS Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit Austin, Texas |
The issue of surge protectors usefulness has been beaten to death by some, but here's my suggestion.
1. Consult with your friendly licensed electrician regarding the grounding installed at your residence. If older house, then probably totally inadequate.
2. Get a good UPS. I recommend Tripp-Lite and don't skimp on the price.
3. Get a good surge protector. don't skimp on the price.
a fourth recommendation is called "point of entry" protection. This can be expensive with solutions being surge-protecting circuit breakers from Siemens or a Primax surge protector.
The cheapest, and most effective solution, is unplug your equipment. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Toshiba Satellite S875D-S7239 laptop OS MS Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit CPU AMD A10-4600M Motherboard AMD Pumori (Socket FT1) Memory 6.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-12-28) Graphics Card AMD Radeon HD 7660G Sound Card High Definition Audio Device Monitor(s) Displays Generic PnP Monitor (1600x900@60Hz) Screen Resolution 1600x900@60Hz Keyboard Standard PS/2 Keyboard Mouse HP Wireless Optical Mobile Mouse Model FHA-3410 Hard Drives SSD 119GB Corsair CSSD-V128GB2 ATA Device Internet Speed What the local pub, local coffee shop offers. Other Info Optical Drive:MATSHITA BD-CMB UJ160B ATA Device
Also have an Asus ha1002xp netbook with Win 7 Ultimate installed. |
14 Aug 2010
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#15 | | windows 7 ultimate Sisaket, Thailand |
I wouldn't be poking around with any screwdrivers or spare pieces of wire to try and bridge the power. I think you risk frying more (your MB and/or yourself!) than it's worth. I just replaced my PSU today. It just went "blink" and that was that. Here in Thailand, it was about $12 for PSU and $1 for install. All in; all done 10-15 minutes while I waited. I've been grabbed by Ol' Sparky too many times to play around for something this cheap. You only got one heart and it don't like to be jump started. However, if you're determined to play...don't!
James | My System Specs | | OS windows 7 ultimate CPU Pentium D, 2.8 Memory 2.5 gb |
14 Aug 2010
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#16 | | Windows 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Bay Area Peninsula |
Never had to open a power supply. But if like most electronics, there will be a fuse right off the power Socket. Wouldn't it be nice if it stopped there? A Guy | My System Specs | | OS Windows 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 CPU INTEL Core i5-750 Quad-Core 3.37GHz Motherboard ASUS P7P55D Memory KINGSTON 4GB (2 x 2GB) HyperX PC3-12800 DDR3 1600MHz CL8 Graphics Card MSI N240GT-MD1G/D5 GeForce GT 240 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 Monitor(s) Displays Samsung SyncMaster B2430H 24" Screen Resolution 1920 x 1080 PSU ANTEC TruePower New TP-550, 80 PLUS, 550W Case ANTEC Three Hundred Illusion Cooling COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus, 4 x 120mm 1 x 140mm Noctua's Hard Drives Intel X25M Gen2 80GB, SEAGATE 500GB Barracudaź 7200.12, SATA 3 Gb/s, 7200 RPM, 16MB cache Internet Speed 20 + Mbps Antivirus Avast Browser Opera |
14 Aug 2010
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#17 | | Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit Virginia |

Quote: Originally Posted by jhawksone I wouldn't be poking around with any screwdrivers or spare pieces of wire to try and bridge the power. I think you risk frying more (your MB and/or yourself!) than it's worth. I just replaced my PSU today. It just went "blink" and that was that. Here in Thailand, it was about $12 for PSU and $1 for install. All in; all done 10-15 minutes while I waited. I've been grabbed by Ol' Sparky too many times to play around for something this cheap. You only got one heart and it don't like to be jump started. However, if you're determined to play...don't!
James Bridging the connection with a piece of wire is the common test to make sure the button works. In fact, it also a common method of testing with any thing electrical, as a way of bypassing the need of a switch, fuse or relay. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Toshiba P775-S7100 OS Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit CPU Intel Core i5-2450M @2.5 GHz Memory 6 GB DDR3 1333MHz Graphics Card Intel HD 3000 Monitor(s) Displays Built-in 17.3" LED; 22" Insignia NS-L22Q-10A Screen Resolution 1600x900; 1360x768 Hard Drives 750 GB Hitachi
1TB Seagate FreeAgent External Internet Speed Verizon DSL Speed(Down/Up): 3360 Kbps / 800 Kbps Antivirus MSE and MBAM Pro Browser IE10 RP |
14 Aug 2010
|
#18 | | MS Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit Austin, Texas |

Quote: Originally Posted by jhawksone I wouldn't be poking around with any screwdrivers or spare pieces of wire to try and bridge the power. I think you risk frying more (your MB and/or yourself!) than it's worth. I just replaced my PSU today. It just went "blink" and that was that. Here in Thailand, it was about $12 for PSU and $1 for install. All in; all done 10-15 minutes while I waited. I've been grabbed by Ol' Sparky too many times to play around for something this cheap. You only got one heart and it don't like to be jump started. However, if you're determined to play...don't!
James I agree with. There are other testing methodologies. I'm a retired Elec Eng. who, in his varied carrier, had a Testing Department under his supervision. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Toshiba Satellite S875D-S7239 laptop OS MS Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit CPU AMD A10-4600M Motherboard AMD Pumori (Socket FT1) Memory 6.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-12-28) Graphics Card AMD Radeon HD 7660G Sound Card High Definition Audio Device Monitor(s) Displays Generic PnP Monitor (1600x900@60Hz) Screen Resolution 1600x900@60Hz Keyboard Standard PS/2 Keyboard Mouse HP Wireless Optical Mobile Mouse Model FHA-3410 Hard Drives SSD 119GB Corsair CSSD-V128GB2 ATA Device Internet Speed What the local pub, local coffee shop offers. Other Info Optical Drive:MATSHITA BD-CMB UJ160B ATA Device
Also have an Asus ha1002xp netbook with Win 7 Ultimate installed. |
15 Aug 2010
|
#19 | | Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit Southern Ohio |

Quote: Originally Posted by Kirsch 
Quote: Originally Posted by Wishmaster Do you have any diagnostic/bench testing switches on your board?
Maybe try to bypass the power switch on the case all together, and power up from the board itself .. If it has a button for it on the board. There aren't any switches, but the first thing I am doing when I get home tonight is taking my screw driver and placing it in between the two links where the power switch cable plugs in, for my motherboard as far as I know that's the only way to bypass the switch  Oh no ...
Not at all what I meant
Some Motherboards have switches built in for testing on a bench. This is what I was refering to. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Custom (Self Build) OS Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit CPU Intel Core i7 2700k Motherboard eVGA P67 SLI Memory 8GB Mushkin Redline Ridgebacks @1866 Graphics Card EVGA GTX570 SC Sound Card XiFi Titanium HD Monitor(s) Displays LG W2453V Screen Resolution 1920x1080 Keyboard Saitek Cyborg PSU Seasonic x750 Case Corsair 600T SE White Cooling eVGA Superclocked CPU Cooler Hard Drives Intel 320 80GB -- Intel X25-V 40GB --WD Black 1TB x2 -- WD Blue 640GB Antivirus Kaspersky Browser IE Other Info LG BD/DVD |
15 Aug 2010
|
#20 | | Win 7 Pro x64/Win Server 2008 R2 Canada |

Quote: Originally Posted by A Guy Never had to open a power supply. But if like most electronics, there will be a fuse right off the power Socket. Wouldn't it be nice if it stopped there? A Guy If a computer PSU has a fuse in it, it's usually a resettable one. The reset is done by removing the power cord for a minute or so, and then plugging it in.
If it's the PSU, it's most likely the input stage that went from a surge. I don't recommend opening one if you aren't sure what you're doing. There can be voltages in places one might not suspect. I thought I'd fix one at work last week, and got belted by 120V for my trouble, and I'm fully qualified and I know what I'm doing. lol | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Mellon Labs OS Win 7 Pro x64/Win Server 2008 R2 CPU Phenom II X4 955 BE @ 3400 Motherboard ASUS M4A79XTD EVO Memory 8 GB Mushkin Blackline DDR3-12800 @ 1600 7-7-7-20 Graphics Card 2 x Sapphire Radeon 1GB 4670 - Crossfire Sound Card VIA HD Audio on MB. Sounds great. Monitor(s) Displays Acer 23" HDMI Screen Resolution 1920 x 1080 Keyboard Logitech G15 Mouse MS Comfort 3000 optical PSU OCZ Stealthstream 600 Case Antec 200 Cooling Coolermaster V8 w/AS 5, too many fans. Hard Drives 1 x WD Silicon Edge 64GB SSD
1 x WD 160GB SATA
1 x WD 500GB SATA Internet Speed Fast enough, kinda, but I'm in Canada. Waaay overpriced. :( Other Info A Mellon Labs X-1 - LCD Smartie driven system status display.
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