Laptop shuts straight off when restarted

Josiah mate strart by running this for me

Using HW Info

PART A:

You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download <download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT is a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE

Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.

See this for the rail voltage info

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-specifications-atx-reference,3061.html (Section 2.)

The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel

FOR OTHER COMPONENTS

PART B:

Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

Use PART A: and go to the section where it has the battery details see my pic

Ok Josiah the battery volts are within the 5% +/- but something I would not be happy with and if any of them dropped any small amount during operation it would cause issues. Plus I am wondering just how old this battery is.
Is there any way you can test the power adaptor?
I am just wondering if when starting the machine the battery is just not holding up or the adaptor cannot provide the necessary volts or current.

Well the battery bit is easy mate the volts in each of those cells should read within 5% +(positive ) or- (negative) of 12 volts. Si if the volts in any cell measures 11.4v or is over 12.6v then it is detrimental to the machine or will not let it work because components in any computer work on very fine tolerances of that voltage.
So the volts on your machine are a tad on the low side because of the charge / discharge cycles it has been put through over the years it is perfectly natural.

Desktop computers work with three basic voltages 3.3v 5v and 12v and the same principle applies.

The adaptor can be measured with a digital multimeter at the computer power plug end. The meter dial is set to DC volts and then the inner connection is typically the positive contact and the outer the negative contact. Now if the red lead of the meter is inserted into the inner contact an the black lead is connected to the outer contact the meter should read anything from 19 - 12 volts typically 19 volts because it will tell you what the output of the adaptor output is on the manufacturers label.

Now laptops will charge the battery and power to machine at 12 volts and that is because there is circuitry to control that voltage. Why that is - is because any power running through a circuit will naturally lose some of the input power by conduction and controlling systems - hence the heat that is generated.

It sounds complicated but is really simple. See my pic for what the meter (very cheap these days) looks like.