| Windows 7: Thermal Compound, how much of a difference does it make?! |
25 Nov 2010
|
#1 | | Windows 7 home premium 64Bit |
Thermal Compound, how much of a difference does it make?! So, recently I have had to take my PC into a computer shop for some assistance as I was stuck on a failing to boot problem for a while ( Turns out a replaced a faulty PSU with another, brand new faulty one). Also, when getting a new PSU, I also upgraded my case to the NZXT Lexia S, which has 5 120mm case fans.
When I collected the PC, they had left the CPU cooler off, so naturally I thought best to re-apply the thermal paste, as I had none left I asked the shop for some and kindly free of charge they gave me some. It was the bog standard 'Cooler paste' with a conductivity off >1.93 W/m-k, when I used to have some Arctic Silver stuff ( Can't remember what type).
Now, my problem is my CPU AMD 64x2 6000+ idles at around 50-51C and full load around 63-65c!!
Surely with my new case it should be running cooler? (Not sure exact temperatures)
So I'm asking, is it the thermal paste that is causing so much difference!?
Thanks for your time! | My System Specs |
| OS Windows 7 home premium 64Bit CPU AMD X2 6000+ 3.10Ghz Motherboard Asus M2N-E SLI Memory 6.00Gb DDR2 800mhz Graphics Card Nvidia 8600GT Sound Card On board 7.1 Monitor(s) Displays Samsung peeble 2232BW Screen Resolution 1680X1050 Keyboard ZBoard Merch Mouse Razer Diamondback PSU 600W Case Asus Cooling Fans Hard Drives 750GB Internet Speed >20MBPS Other Info Also runnig an Asus EEE pc 1005HA with Windows 7 Home Premium 32bit |
25 Nov 2010
|
#2 | | |
i'd try resetting the heatsink or check the heatsink and make sure it's on right .
if it's pushpins make sure you have them locked down.
scrooge | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number home build OS win 7 ( 64 bit) CPU Intel Core i7-870 Lynnfield 2.93GHz 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1156 95 Motherboard ASUS P7P55 LX LGA 1156 Memory G.SKILL Sniper Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM Graphics Card ATI Radeon HD6800 Series Sound Card hdmi Monitor(s) Displays 42" lg 3d tv Screen Resolution 1920 x 1080 Keyboard logtech Mouse logitect PSU Rosewill BRONZE Series RBR1000-M 1000W Continuous@40°C, 80Pl Case CoolMaster 922 Cooling CORSAIR CWCH60 Hydro Series H60 High Performance Liquid CPU Hard Drives 1 ssd pci-e revodrive
4 seagate 1.5 tb Internet Speed 5 mbit |
25 Nov 2010
|
#3 | | windows 7 ultimate 64bit Memphis |
my first thought would be to find a new repair shop. aside from that i would make sure they reconnected all the fans and that they are not obstructed by anything. also, too much thermal paste can cause overheating. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Alienware AREA-51 M17x OS windows 7 ultimate 64bit CPU Intel Core2 Extreme x9000 2.8GHZ Motherboard Asus P965 Intel chipset Memory 4Gig Graphics Card 2 NVidia GeForce 8800M GTX (SLi) Sound Card onboard Monitor(s) Displays 17in. built-in, 47in JVC LCD Screen Resolution 1080p Mouse touchpad, Logitech Anywhere Mouse cordless laser Case 17in. laptop Hard Drives 2 250Gig Hitachi (RAID 0) @ 7200RPM Internet Speed cable |
25 Nov 2010
|
#4 | | Windows 7 Ultimate x86 Massachusetts |
65C is still inside the allowed temps, IIRC.
I'd say it's most important that #1 thermal compound has been used and #2 that it has been applied correctly. True..there is a difference in effectiveness between low cost/standard grade and the better brands like arctic silver. But by no means it would make a 10 degree difference...5-6 degrees at best. What I'm trying to say is: if you look to lower the temps dramatically, it's not the compound brand I would worry about.
Make sure the heat sink is seated correctly and the air flow is not obstructed by cables, extension cards etc. If that all doesn't get you where you'd like to be, maybe consider replacing the stock cooler with a more efficient system.
-DG | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number HP m8000n OS Windows 7 Ultimate x86 CPU DualCore AMD Athlon 64 X2, 2600 MHz 5200+ Motherboard Asus M2N68-LA (Narra) Memory Samsung 2GB DDR2 Graphics Card Onboard NVIDIA GeForce 6150SE nForce 430 Sound Card Onboard nVIDIA nForce 6100-430 (MCP61P) Monitor(s) Displays Westinghouse 19" LED Screen Resolution 1280x1024 Keyboard Logitech Classic KB 200 Mouse Standard HP opticle USB mouse PSU Stock (HP) Case Stock (HP) Cooling Stock Hard Drives SATA II Seagate Barracuda 500GB
USB II WD Elements 500GB
USB II WD My Book 1TB
USB II WD My Book 2TB |
25 Nov 2010
|
#5 | | Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit Steve Ballmer Signature Edition So Cal (I.E.) |
Arctic Silver helped on my system measuredly lowered temps when I switched over 18 months ago, dropped an extra 3-5 @ idle and 10 at full bore! | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Homebrew PC - "Alpha_Dawg" OS Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit Steve Ballmer Signature Edition CPU Intel Core 2 Quad - Q9550 - 2.83GHz stock - OC'd to 3.6GHz Motherboard Gigabyte EP45-UD3P Memory 4GB DDR2 800MHz (PC6400) OCZ Reaper Graphics Card Nvidia GE Force 8800 GTS Sound Card Asus Xonar DX Monitor(s) Displays Samsung SyncMaster 2333HD Screen Resolution 1920 x 1080 Keyboard MS Natural Wireless KB Mouse MS Wireless Mouse PSU PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Case Gigabyte 3D Aurora Cooling Case is Air - 5ea. 120mm fans (mix of Arctic and Xigmatec) Hard Drives WD Caviar Black 750GB - 7200RPM - 32MB cache
WD Caviar Green 1.5TB - 5400RPM - 64MB cache
WD Caviar Green 2.0TB - 5400RPM - 64MB cache Internet Speed 50 mbps down/5 mbps up Other Info AVerMedia - AVerTVHD G2 Dual Tuner Card |
26 Nov 2010
|
#6 | | Windows 7 64-bit Home Orlando, FL |
65 at full load doesnt seem that high, 51 idle is kinda high though | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number My First Build OS Windows 7 64-bit Home CPU Intel Core i7-870 Lynnfield 2.93 Ghz Motherboard Asus P7P55D-E Pro Memory 8GB 4x2 A-Data 1333 Mhz Graphics Card HIS Radeon HD 5850 1GB Sound Card Onboard Monitor(s) Displays Dell S2440L 24" Screen Resolution 1680x1050 Keyboard Logitech LX 710 Mouse Logitech LX 710 PSU Corsair 650TX 650 Watt Case Antec Three Hundred Cooling Stock Intel /// 4 Antec Case Fans /// NZXT Sentry-2 Hard Drives 120 GB Intel X25-M SATA Solid State Drive ///
1 TB Western Digital Caviar Black SATA 6gb/s 7200rpm Drive Other Info LG Blu-Ray Drive |
26 Nov 2010
|
#7 | | |

Quote: Originally Posted by kerfuffler So, recently I have had to take my PC into a computer shop for some assistance as I was stuck on a failing to boot problem for a while ( Turns out a replaced a faulty PSU with another, brand new faulty one). Also, when getting a new PSU, I also upgraded my case to the NZXT Lexia S, which has 5 120mm case fans.
When I collected the PC, they had left the CPU cooler off, so naturally I thought best to re-apply the thermal paste, as I had none left I asked the shop for some and kindly free of charge they gave me some. It was the bog standard 'Cooler paste' with a conductivity off >1.93 W/m-k, when I used to have some Arctic Silver stuff ( Can't remember what type).
Now, my problem is my CPU AMD 64x2 6000+ idles at around 50-51C and full load around 63-65c!!
Surely with my new case it should be running cooler? (Not sure exact temperatures)
So I'm asking, is it the thermal paste that is causing so much difference!?
Thanks for your time! Yup, very high on both ends.
I'd recommend re-applying the thermal paste, and making sure the CPU cooler is properly mounted. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Self Built OS Windows 7 Pro x64 SP1 CPU Intel Core i5-2500K Motherboard ASUS P8P67 Memory 8GB Corsair XMS3 DDR3 Graphics Card EVGA GeForce GTX 670 FTW Sound Card ASUS Xonar DS Monitor(s) Displays SAMSUNG P2070 Screen Resolution 1600 x 900 @ 60Hz Keyboard Logitech K300 Black Mouse Genius on Steelseries 4HD Gaming pad PSU Corsair TX950W Case Corsair Obsidian 650D Cooling Thermaltake Frío Hard Drives WD Caviar Blue Other Info Headphones: Sennheiser HD-515 |
26 Nov 2010
|
#8 | | win7 ultimate / virtual box weston super mare, UK |
i use the same cpu and I found the heatsink and fan I use is important then installing it properly with a thin layer of heatsink paste gave me best results
using an Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro I achieve steady temps of 38 deg C at idle and never any higher than 50 deg C under full load
the contact between the polished surface of the CPU and the polished base of the heatsink is critical for effective cooling and the heatsink paste is used to fill in the imperfections in these contact surfaces, so you can imagine only a very thin smear should be necessary
In the earlier days of computing when overclocking I used to flatten out and polish the CPU and heatsink surfaces to maximize metal to metal contact and this always worked better than a thicker layer of heatsink paste, but with todays CPU's and good quality heatsinks this is no longer neccesary | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number built my own OS win7 ultimate / virtual box CPU Intel Core i7 3770K,1155, Ivy Bridge Motherboard MSI Z77A-G43 Memory GSkill Ripjaws Z Series 1600 CL 9.0 16GB Graphics Card KFA2 GeForce GTX 670 EX OC 2048MB GDDR5 PCI-E gfx card Sound Card onboard Nvidia HDMI audio Monitor(s) Displays ASUS VK222H 22" widescreen LCD monitor Screen Resolution 1680x1050 Keyboard logitech Mouse logitech MX518 PSU Corsair HX 750W ATX2.2 Modular Cooling Antec 25 Kuhler H2O 620 Hard Drives Kingston 128gb SSD
OCZ Vertex 90gb SSD
500GB WDCaviar 16mb 5000KS
320GB WDCaviar 16mb 3200AAKS sata 2
1TB Samsung 16mb HD103SJ sata 2 Internet Speed 7mb adsl |
26 Nov 2010
|
#9 | | Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit Steve Ballmer Signature Edition So Cal (I.E.) |

Quote: Originally Posted by ickymay i use the same cpu and I found the heatsink and fan I use is important then installing it properly with a thin layer of heatsink paste gave me best results
using an Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro I achieve steady temps of 38 deg C at idle and never any higher than 50 deg C under full load
the contact between the polished surface of the CPU and the polished base of the heatsink is critical for effective cooling and the heatsink paste is used to fill in the imperfections in these contact surfaces, so you can imagine only a very thin smear should be necessary
In the earlier days of computing when overclocking I used to flatten out and polish the CPU and heatsink surfaces to maximize metal to metal contact and this always worked better than a thicker layer of heatsink paste, but with todays CPU's and good quality heatsinks this is no longer neccesary  Great info icky...
Id like to add that if you are unfamiliar with how to properly apply thermal paste/grease/goo there are plenty of videos out there willing to show you how.
Here are a few recent ones... Arctic Silver Incorporated - Route to Product Instructions for Arctic Silver 5 How-To: Properly Apply Thermal Paste and Install a CPU | Maximum PC
and plenty on youtube too!
Oh, and while you have the cooler off, Id suggest going to an aftermarket cooler! | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Homebrew PC - "Alpha_Dawg" OS Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit Steve Ballmer Signature Edition CPU Intel Core 2 Quad - Q9550 - 2.83GHz stock - OC'd to 3.6GHz Motherboard Gigabyte EP45-UD3P Memory 4GB DDR2 800MHz (PC6400) OCZ Reaper Graphics Card Nvidia GE Force 8800 GTS Sound Card Asus Xonar DX Monitor(s) Displays Samsung SyncMaster 2333HD Screen Resolution 1920 x 1080 Keyboard MS Natural Wireless KB Mouse MS Wireless Mouse PSU PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Case Gigabyte 3D Aurora Cooling Case is Air - 5ea. 120mm fans (mix of Arctic and Xigmatec) Hard Drives WD Caviar Black 750GB - 7200RPM - 32MB cache
WD Caviar Green 1.5TB - 5400RPM - 64MB cache
WD Caviar Green 2.0TB - 5400RPM - 64MB cache Internet Speed 50 mbps down/5 mbps up Other Info AVerMedia - AVerTVHD G2 Dual Tuner Card |
27 Nov 2010
|
#10 | | Windows 7 home premium 64Bit |

Quote: Originally Posted by ickymay i use the same cpu and I found the heatsink and fan I use is important then installing it properly with a thin layer of heatsink paste gave me best results
using an Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro I achieve steady temps of 38 deg C at idle and never any higher than 50 deg C under full load
the contact between the polished surface of the CPU and the polished base of the heatsink is critical for effective cooling and the heatsink paste is used to fill in the imperfections in these contact surfaces, so you can imagine only a very thin smear should be necessary
In the earlier days of computing when overclocking I used to flatten out and polish the CPU and heatsink surfaces to maximize metal to metal contact and this always worked better than a thicker layer of heatsink paste, but with todays CPU's and good quality heatsinks this is no longer neccesary  Thanks for the advice, cooler sounds good! I think I'l try it out, looks better than my current CPU cooler.
Also, I've noticed it comes with cooling paste pre applied, so I would only apply to the CPU myself? | My System Specs | | OS Windows 7 home premium 64Bit CPU AMD X2 6000+ 3.10Ghz Motherboard Asus M2N-E SLI Memory 6.00Gb DDR2 800mhz Graphics Card Nvidia 8600GT Sound Card On board 7.1 Monitor(s) Displays Samsung peeble 2232BW Screen Resolution 1680X1050 Keyboard ZBoard Merch Mouse Razer Diamondback PSU 600W Case Asus Cooling Fans Hard Drives 750GB Internet Speed >20MBPS Other Info Also runnig an Asus EEE pc 1005HA with Windows 7 Home Premium 32bit Thermal Compound, how much of a difference does it make?! problems? All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:24 AM. | |