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Windows 7: Problem in BIOS HALP!


23 Jul 2011   #11
Microsoft MVP

Win 7 Ultimate x64
 
 

Yes it has to be on to test. Here is an easier method of checking,

Testing Your PSU Rails - EXTREME Overclocking Forums

still requires a multi meter, but tests using just a molex connector.

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23 Jul 2011   #12
Microsoft MVP

Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
 
 

Name:  Molex.PNG
Views: 14
Size:  104.8 KB
Here is the connetcor you want to use. The color code it there too, your Molex could be black too, still the same.


My System SpecsSystem Spec
23 Jul 2011   #13

Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by TVeblen View Post
Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by boogieboy View Post
That sounds very complicated to me.. Can i test it while the PC is on?
You need to!

Quote:
and should i plug the Red pointed pin with yellow wire and Black pointed pin with the black wire?
Yes. By convention the yellow wires are 12v leads. The black wires are grounds. The multimeter, connected as described, will measure if you are getting a true 12v.

If you are uncomfortable with this then don't do it. While it would be hard to mess anything up (you'd have to cross - or bridge - the connections to short anything out and do damage. (Don't do that!).

Can you get your father to show you how to use the equipment? It really is a good skill to know if you are going to play with electronics.
yup but my dad is not alive and i'll have to do it on my own Thanks for the guide TVeblen and i will try this in the morning coz i can't seem to find it right now i'll be careful while im doing it so i dont mess up anything

Thanks Britton30 for the Molex Pic with detail and Thanks stormy13 for the very useful link as well
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24 Jul 2011   #14

Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
 
 

Ok i just checked with the Multimeter by setting the meter on DC V at 12v and checked with 2 molex connectors by plugging the Red Meter Lead to Yellow Wire and Black Meter Lead to Black Wire on the Molex and the meter goes to full 12v i checked twice and thrice times by taking out the black lead and insert back in. Goes to 12v on the meter so it means the PSU is working fine but Motherboard sensor has gone bad? should i send the motherboard in Warranty?
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24 Jul 2011   #15

Microsoft Community Contributor Award Recipient

Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by boogieboy View Post
so it means the PSU is working fine but Motherboard sensor has gone bad?
Yes. That shows you that the power supply is putting out an actual 12v and is good.
While you've got the equipment out you could also check the 5v lines (red) just to know.


Quote:
should i send the motherboard in Warranty?
That is up to you. Can you be without the PC for that amount of time and is it worth the problem?
Personally I would. My feeling is that if the sensors are bad there may be a more global problem with the board - or it is just a lemon - and I would want a new one.

Good job. Keep that multimeter handy!
My System SpecsSystem Spec
24 Jul 2011   #16

Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by TVeblen View Post
Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by boogieboy View Post
so it means the PSU is working fine but Motherboard sensor has gone bad?
Yes. That shows you that the power supply is putting out an actual 12v and is good.
While you've got the equipment out you could also check the 5v lines (red) just to know.


Quote:
should i send the motherboard in Warranty?
That is up to you. Can you be without the PC for that amount of time and is it worth the problem?
Personally I would. My feeling is that if the sensors are bad there may be a more global problem with the board - or it is just a lemon - and I would want a new one.

Good job. Keep that multimeter handy!
How to check the 5v? You mean the red wire on the Molex where i tested with the yellow wire?

Yes im personally not feeling to keep the board anymore like that & not satisfied im also having problem with Dual-Layer disc reading + today i tried to overclock the processor a bit (im not sure if i was doing right coz i never done this before) first i went into the bios and set to manual and increased the fsb from 266 to 333 and rest was auto and saved settings and as soon as the pc restarted it was hanged so i pressed the reset button and the board gave me error Overclocking Failed and incorrect voltages etc so load setup defaults and working again. Maybe i did some mistake in OCing but still i think i would send it in warranty and get it replaced thanks for helping TVeblen.
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24 Jul 2011   #17

Microsoft Community Contributor Award Recipient

Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
 
 

Yes, you test all the voltages the same way. The red wires are 5v and the orange wires are 3.3v (If you can find any open spare orange wires to test, these will not be on a molex connector.).

As for overclocking - something I do not bother myself with too much - you should check out the SevenForums overclocking Forum and ask there for a step by step instruction. I'm sure you will get good help with that there, as there are many people who are really pushing their rigs.
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24 Jul 2011   #18

Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
 
 

Ok i just checked the 5v too and the meter stays between 4 and 6 right in the middle which means the 5v is also working fine on the PSU. I looked for orange or other color cable but i cant find other than Red, Black and Yellow cable colors
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24 Jul 2011   #19

Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64
 
 

You can also test the voltages by means of a technique known as back-probing. With this, you test the voltages from the back of the main ATX power connector whilst it is plugged into your motherboard (and whilst it is powered on, obviously). You must use a digital multimeter for this.

Name:  connector_atx_pinout.GIF
Views: 1
Size:  20.1 KB

With your meter switched to the DC Volts range (20V, if not equipped with Auto-ranging), insert the black probe into the rear of the connector so that it makes contact with one of the black leads.

With the red lead, employ the same method, but the colour of the lead will depend on the voltage you are checking.

+3.3V Orange
+5.0V Red
+12.0V Yellow


All voltages should, ideally, be within 5% of the nominal values.


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26 Jul 2011   #20

Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
 
 

Thanks for the useful tip Dwarf.
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 Problem in BIOS HALP!




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