Mouse randomly freezes for no reason

seavixen32 said:

If you want a real performance boost, you might want to consider an SSD to run Windows and applications, and then a 7200 RPM 1TB spinner for your personal data.

I was planning an SSD soon but first the 1 TB since I'm running out of space fast.

In the meantime I was gonna also add an extra 8GB of RAM to my order for a total of 12GB and then use the extra 4GB for a RAMdisk to get that extra speed boost.

For the HDD however I think I will stick to the WDC Caviar since the 5 year warranty does seem worth it.

This is the cheapest Western Digital 1 TB 7200 RPM internal drive I could find. Newegg.com - Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

The only thing is that the failure rate seems a lot higher than other drives at the moment, with many people reporting that it died within the first couple days of use. I just really don't want this to happen. I hope the special $10 off promo offer doesn't have anything to do with this

Also I find it strange that the WDC internal drives are more expensive then their externals at the moment. Shoulda invested in a 1TB before the floods hit in October '11. Oh well.

What do you guys think about the drive above? Should I take my chances and hope it doesn't ship DOA?

I had the same problem with a standard Logitech mouse on a USB port of an ASUS board with Windows 7 running.
This problem with USB mice seems to be very frequent, because I found many reports about that in many forums.
I tried all the software solutions poposed in these forums but to absolutely no avail. On the contrary, the mouse freezing for some seconds with the "USB device connect/disconnect" sounds happened more and more frequently.

Finally I found the very simple solution:
It is a simple hardware problem and had nothing to do with software:

The Logitech mice (and their various similarly constructed clones) have an extremely cheap cable connection. The relative thin and cheap cable has no antikink device at all. The only strain relief is an S-shaped channel through which the cable is lead into mouse case. Obviously the isolations of the wires inside the cable are chafed in the kinks of the S-shaped channel after longer use so thin, that tottering short circuits happen between the wires in the cable, which appear to the system like connecting and disconnecting the USB device.

I screwed the mouse encasement open and took the cable out of the S-shaped channel and bend it straight thus removing all kinks in it. Then I shoved the cable one inch into the case. so that I could lay a "fresh" (= unkinked before) section of the cable into the S-shaped channel.

I did that 2 weeks ago. I had no problems since then anymore.

Werner

P.S.: Be careful opening the mouse case:
Remove the single screw which holds the case closed.
Then lay the mouse on a table while you take off the cover of the case and keep it lying on the table while you do the above described operations with cable and close the case again before you lift it off the table.

By this you prevent that the mouse wheel falls out of its position, cause it is a lot of enervating hustle to put the wheel and the 2 spring wires holding it back into correct position, if you don't know how to do it. So better keep it untouched in its position while you do the cable operations.