| Windows 7: Computer Attempts to Turn On then Doesn't |
30 Dec 2011
|
#1 | | Windows 7 Home Premium x64 |
Computer Attempts to Turn On then Doesn't My computer attempts to turn on, then like .3 seconds after I press the power button, it turns off. I opened the case to see what was the problem. The power supply does work, because it is showing lights before cutting itself off it seems.
So far I have a list of good parts, and they are as follows:
RAM
Graphics Card
Power Supply
CD/DVD Drive
Hard Drive
Heatsink/fan
I have bought a new motherboard and CPU recently.
They are: AMD FX-4100 Quad-core and ASRock 970 Extreme 3.
Any suggestions as to what is wrong?
Thanks! | My System Specs |
| OS Windows 7 Home Premium x64 |
30 Dec 2011
|
#2 | | Windows 7 SP1, Home Premium, 64-bit |
A couple of things to start with:
You say "I have a list of good parts".
What makes you think they are good?
Do your fans start to move when you try to start?
Can you hear the hard drives try to spin when you try to start? | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one OS Windows 7 SP1, Home Premium, 64-bit CPU Intel Sandy Bridge i5-2500, not overclocked Motherboard Gigabyte H67A-UD3H-B3, full ATX Memory 4 GB Crucial DDR3-1333 Graphics Card none; graphics are integrated on CPU Sound Card onboard: Realtek ALC892; external: USB Behringer UF0-202 Monitor(s) Displays NEC 90GX2-BK 19" LCD Screen Resolution 800 x 640 Keyboard Leopold Tenkeyless with Cherry Blue switches, USB Mouse Logitech or Microsoft optical wired; either USB or PS 2 PSU Seasonic SS-560KM, modular Case Antec Solo II Cooling CPU: Scythe Big Shuriken; Case: Scythe Slipstream 800 & 500 Hard Drives System: Intel 320 Series SSD, 80 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD15EADS-00P8B0, 1.5TB Other Info Power consumption of this system, including monitor: 68 watts at idle; 144 watts at full load |
30 Dec 2011
|
#3 | | Windows 7 Home Premium x64 |
I have tested the "good parts" on my other computer to see if they spin and such and they are operational. | My System Specs | | OS Windows 7 Home Premium x64 |
30 Dec 2011
|
#4 | | Windows 7 SP1, Home Premium, 64-bit |
What about my last 2 questions? | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one OS Windows 7 SP1, Home Premium, 64-bit CPU Intel Sandy Bridge i5-2500, not overclocked Motherboard Gigabyte H67A-UD3H-B3, full ATX Memory 4 GB Crucial DDR3-1333 Graphics Card none; graphics are integrated on CPU Sound Card onboard: Realtek ALC892; external: USB Behringer UF0-202 Monitor(s) Displays NEC 90GX2-BK 19" LCD Screen Resolution 800 x 640 Keyboard Leopold Tenkeyless with Cherry Blue switches, USB Mouse Logitech or Microsoft optical wired; either USB or PS 2 PSU Seasonic SS-560KM, modular Case Antec Solo II Cooling CPU: Scythe Big Shuriken; Case: Scythe Slipstream 800 & 500 Hard Drives System: Intel 320 Series SSD, 80 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD15EADS-00P8B0, 1.5TB Other Info Power consumption of this system, including monitor: 68 watts at idle; 144 watts at full load |
30 Dec 2011
|
#5 | | Windows 7 Home Premium x64 |
Sorry, it slipped my mind  lol
But, I can see the power supply fan and heatsink fan spin momentarily when I try to start it on my computer that won't run.
The hard drive makes no sort of sound or spin noise or anything at all. | My System Specs | | OS Windows 7 Home Premium x64 |
30 Dec 2011
|
#6 | | Windows 7 SP1, Home Premium, 64-bit |
Here is a series of troubleshooting steps from member TVeblen.
You should be able to adapt them to your situation.
Strip it down and then add components back, one at a time, to try and isolate the offending component.
The test (power off, power cord unplugged):
• Disconnect everything externally connected except the mouse and keyboard (printers, USB devices). If you are not using a wired mouse and keyboard see if you can borrow one.
• Disconnect the power and data cables from all the drives inside the computer (Hard drives, DVD/CD drives).
• Remove all the cards installed in the PCI slots including the video card. (be careful handling them and place them on a non conductive surface while testing).
• Remove all the RAM sticks (same rules as above).
Now connect the power cord and turn the PC on.
• The motherboard should start beeping. You should get a beep code that tells you there is no memory. This is good, it means the processor is functioning and the motherboard is good so far.
• Now add one stick of memory in Slot A1 and power on. More beeping: "no video card" beep code. This is good.
• Then add the video card and connect it to the monitor. You should get no beeping and you should see the BIOS screens, ending with the message that there is no boot device.
If you get no video then switch the one memory stick installed for another one and test.
Continue adding components one at a time.
If at any point the PC fails the the last component added was the problem one.
If you removed everything and there is only the Motherboard (with integrated video), processor, and power supply to contend with and it does not POST or show anything on the screen, then the problem is one of those three.
If you have tested by using another power supply then you are down to two. CPUs rarely fail, so motherboard is the most likely guess.
Try performing a CLRTC or Clear CMOS as a last ditch effort, and check the 3v battery. Both long shots, but what do you have to lose at this point. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one OS Windows 7 SP1, Home Premium, 64-bit CPU Intel Sandy Bridge i5-2500, not overclocked Motherboard Gigabyte H67A-UD3H-B3, full ATX Memory 4 GB Crucial DDR3-1333 Graphics Card none; graphics are integrated on CPU Sound Card onboard: Realtek ALC892; external: USB Behringer UF0-202 Monitor(s) Displays NEC 90GX2-BK 19" LCD Screen Resolution 800 x 640 Keyboard Leopold Tenkeyless with Cherry Blue switches, USB Mouse Logitech or Microsoft optical wired; either USB or PS 2 PSU Seasonic SS-560KM, modular Case Antec Solo II Cooling CPU: Scythe Big Shuriken; Case: Scythe Slipstream 800 & 500 Hard Drives System: Intel 320 Series SSD, 80 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD15EADS-00P8B0, 1.5TB Other Info Power consumption of this system, including monitor: 68 watts at idle; 144 watts at full load |
30 Dec 2011
|
#7 | | Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1 In The Woods |
+1^ | My System Specs | | Computer type PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number Home Built - Jan 2013 OS Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1 CPU i7-3820 Motherboard Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 3305 Memory GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB Graphics Card EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 310.90 Sound Card On board Realtek ALC898 Monitor(s) Displays Acer S271HL Screen Resolution 1920 x 1080 Keyboard MS KC-0405 Mouse Intellimouse 5-button PSU Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic) Case Corsair Obsidian 550D Cooling Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO Hard Drives #1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black Internet Speed 25Mbits/Sec (on a good day) Antivirus Avast & Malwarebytes Browser Firefox Other Info Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X |
30 Dec 2011
|
#8 | | Windows 7 Professional 64 Bit SP1 St Thomas, Virgin Islands |
I would say it's a 90% chance that your motherboard is the problem.
I had the exact same symptoms several months ago & replacing my mobo solved the problem. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Custom Build OS Windows 7 Professional 64 Bit SP1 CPU Intel QX9650 - Mild Overclock to 3.5Ghz Motherboard ASUS P5Q SE Plus Memory 16GB G.Skill F2-6400 at 840Mhz Graphics Card nVidia Ge Force GTX 550ti Sound Card On Board Monitor(s) Displays HP w2408h Screen Resolution 1920 x 1200 Keyboard Logitech Illuminated Mouse Logitech Wireless Trackball M570 PSU Antec Basiq BP500U Case CoolerMaster ATX ATC-210 Cooling Non-Stock Heatsink w/high speed CPU fan Hard Drives CRUCIAL M4 128Gb SSD, --
Two - WDC WD1001FALS-00J7B0 SATA's, -- One
WDC WD2001FASS-00U0B0 SATA |
30 Dec 2011
|
#9 | | Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 X64/ linux in VM NW Florida |
The only thing I would like to add to TVeblen's excellent troubleshooting steps is to recheck the PSU connections to the motherboard, even if you are sure they are right. On the 20+4 pin connection, the 4 pin separates from the 20 pin and can therefore not be completely seated. The same with the 4 or 8 pin ATX connector. Also, if you have 4 pins showing on the ATX and there are 4 more covered with a sticker, remove the sticker and plug in 2 4 pin connectors there, it is an 8 pin connector.
EDIT: Also make sure the CPU Cooler fan is plugged into the CPU fan connector. | My System Specs | | Computer type PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number Home Built- Always under construction OS Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 X64/ linux in VM CPU Intel i7-3770K Motherboard Asus Maximus V Extreme Z77 Memory 8GB G.Skill Ripjaws Z DDR3-2400 (2X4GB) Graphics Card EVGA GTX 670 SC 4GB Sound Card On Board Monitor(s) Displays Asus 24" LCD Screen Resolution 1920X1080 Keyboard Logitech G510 Mouse Logitech G500 PSU CORSAIR AX850 Case Cooler Master HAF X Cooling Custom Water Cooling Hard Drives Samsung 840 Pro 256 GB, Samsung 840 Pro 256 GB, Samsung 830 256GB, Samsung HD103SJ 1TB . External HD- Black X dock esata 1TB Samsung Spinpoint, Rosewill USB 3.0 dock 1TB Samsung Spinpoint Internet Speed carrier pigeon speed Antivirus MSE/MBAM Browser ie8 Other Info 2nd Rig,Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 X64, i7-2600K, Asrock P67 Extreme 4, 8GB DDR3-2133, HAF XM case, Noctua NH-D14, Gigabyte HD6950 OC 1GB, 2 X Crucial M4 128GB, Asus 24" LED.
Laptop- Samsung RF711-SO1 17" i5-2310M, 8GB DDR3-1333, Crucial M4 and OCZ vertex2, Nvidia GT540M.Win 7 HP X64 SP1. |
31 Dec 2011
|
#10 | | Windows 7 Pro x64 San Tan Valley, AZ |
I have the same CPU and MB, make sure that you have the CPU fan connected to the CPU fan Header 1 as there are 2 CPU fan headers, the other thing to chck is that you have the ATX power cable plugged in, I have just the 4 pin ATX plugged in and it works just fine that way. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Home build OS Windows 7 Pro x64 CPU AMD FX 4100 4 Core 3.6GHz AM3+ Motherboard ASROCK 970 Extreme3 Memory 16GB G.Skill RipjawsX Graphics Card Radeon 6850 Sound Card ASUS Xonar D1 Monitor(s) Displays ASUS 23" LCD PSU 700W Case Antec 100 Cooling Hyper 212 Plus Hard Drives SSD 120GB
WD 750GB Black series
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