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Windows 7: Tips for replacing motherboard with same model


03 Apr 2012   #1

Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
 
 
Tips for replacing motherboard with same model

After a clumsy cleaning job on my part, my computer refused to POST. I did a lot of memory swapping and found the problem only occurred when memory was in either of the B channel slots, so now I'm running with 4gb instead of 8gb as single-channel rather than dual-channel.

I've decided to replace the motherboard with the same model (Intel DP55WB). I've worked inside computers a lot, but never replaced a motherboard before. I've assumed the job would be fairly straightforward since the models are the same, but on second thought I've decided I shouldn't assume anything.

I'll have to update the BIOS, I know, but anything else? I've read about having to reactivate Windows on a motherboard replacement (I have Windows 7 Home Premium) but will this be necessary since it's the same model mobo?

Is there anything I should be doing to prepare before taking the old board out? Any tips in general, or pointers to useful tutorials, for installing or replacing a motherboard?

Thanks.

My System SpecsSystem Spec
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03 Apr 2012   #2

Windows 7 Pro X64 SP1
 
 

You may well have to reactivate Windows. One of the most highly weighted components in the Windows activation check is the MAC address of the network controller. That will change with a new board, even if it was made otherwise identical to the first board.

That shouldn't be a problem, even if your Windows license is OEM. You are permitted to repair the PC by replacing the motherboard with the same model. You may have to activate by telephone, though.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
03 Apr 2012   #3

Win 7
 
 

What did the cleaning entail?
The memory controller is on the CPU in i series boards so if you removed or wiggled the heat sink on the CPU it may be worthwhile to remove the CPU and check the contacts on both the cpu and the socket first.
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03 Apr 2012   #4

Main - Windows 7 Pro SP1 64-Bit; 2nd - Windows Server 2008 R2
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by Wrench97 View Post
What did the cleaning entail?
The memory controller is on the CPU in i series boards so if you removed or wiggled the heat sink on the CPU it may be worthwhile to remove the CPU and check the contacts on both the cpu and the socket first.
Very good point. I've seen a number of people who didn't have the heatsink evenly torqued down get memory problems because a pin in the corner wasn't quite making good contact. It's worth a try and beats buying a new board if it works.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
30 Apr 2012   #5

Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
 
 

I just want to close this out to help anyone else with the same issues...

There were many bent pins in the cpu socket, no doubt due to my clumsy handling. (I'd removed the heatsink to clean it, and, with more curiosity than caution, I opened the cpu latch while the computer was upright, and the cpu toppled out. Ooops. Live and learn.) The pins seemed way too tiny to try to straighten (by me, anyway).

After I posted my original message, my power supply blew out. (I believe ants had gotten in there; I found some in the case when I opened it.) So I bought a new power supply (Corsair TX650M) to replace the no-name 550W psu, the exact same motherboard (Intel DP55WB, kind of out of date now, but this was my first ever mobo replacement, so I wanted to make things easy on myself, and I didn't want to have to buy a new cpu as well), and a Thermaltake Silent 1156 cpu cooler to replace the stock cooler because some of the mounting pins were all bent and it wasn't really seated well.

Anyway, I took all the stuff out, put the new stuff in (it's a Velocity Micro Edge Z30 in a micro ATX case), and lo and behold, when I turned the darned thing on it actually booted right up. Considering I'd never installed a mobo or a psu or anything but the stock cpu cooler, I was kind of pleased, but mostly stunned. I still have to get all the cables back in and the panels put on, but I seem to have my computer back, which is pretty cool.

I did need to reauthorize Windows, but did not need to do a restore or anything like that. Everything I'd read suggested I'd have to call Microsoft and explain the situation to avoid having to buy another activation key, but I tried entering my original key first, and it worked.

So I'm up and running again. Thanks to those who responded.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
30 Apr 2012   #6

Main - Windows 7 Pro SP1 64-Bit; 2nd - Windows Server 2008 R2
 
 

I'm glad to hear that things have worked out for you.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
30 Apr 2012   #7

W7 X-64 RTM,SUSE 11.1, XP PRO SP3 as a VM, VMware ESXi
 
 

Hi there
Great stuff

For anybody else assembling / repairing a computer Please note

I can't stress enough that ALL the CPU's now for modern boards are the "ZIF" type -- ZERO INSERTION FORCE.

If they don't drop in without ANY PRESSURE needed then you have got the alignment wrong.

It's not always easy to see where you align the CPU with the board SO TAKE YOUR TIME and USE A DECENT LIGHT - otherwise a new CPU and probably BOARD.

Then when you've found it after insertion and locking it in place CAREFULLY add the heatsink / fan assembly -- and DO use any Grease if they supply it for the heatsink / metal contact. CPU's can get very hot so the heatsink needs to be attached to the CPU PROPERLY.

Cheers
jimbo
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 Tips for replacing motherboard with same model




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