is my computer dead?

marimuda

New member
Situation:
When i try to turn on my computer nothing happens. I don't see any LED turned on, no fan noise, no biib.

Spec:
Ocz vertex 3 256 gb. boot drive
Intel Core i7-2600 k @ 4.4 ghz /w Noctua NH-D14
gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD4-B3 (rev. 1.0)
Radeon HD 6950 2GB
corsair vengeance 1600 Mhz cl8

History:
I got a thread in General discussion (http://www.sevenforums.com/general-...-get-into-bios-advanced-start-up-setting.html)
Where i was trying several things since i couldn't get into the bios nor advanced boot, got suggested to reset my CMOS and tried the method by unplugging the battery, didn't work then i tried the Jumper pins, and saw on the internet that i can use some metal object to connect the pins and i used a screwdriver. after that I haven't seen any signal from my computer.

If you read through my general discussion debate then you get a good picture of the situation.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows Ultimate x64
Have you tried a NEW PSU?

have you tried a NEW CABLE?

Do you know that its getting POWER?

Is the Switch on the wall ON?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Build.
OS
Windows 7 Home Pre
CPU
Q8200 Intell 2.333
Motherboard
Asus P5Q3 Delux
Memory
DDR3 1333 4gig
Graphics Card(s)
Ati HD4870
Sound Card
Onboard Soundmax. 7.1
Monitor(s) Displays
1, 20" Samsung
Screen Resolution
1600/900
PSU
Good enough
Case
Le Shark
Cooling
FAN FAN FAN FAN, Thermaltake Minitype 90 with speed fan 4.
Keyboard
Standard, Gaming Wolfking
Mouse
Cm-storm-inferno-wired-gaming-mouse
Internet Speed
Sky Crappy upto 20meg I get a whapping 5.8mbs.
2 days ago my brother was trying to Turn on his PC and it was'nt doing anything... all i did was i changed the Power Cord and it's working again. That's possible that your Power Cord has died so try another one if you have a spare or just take one of the LCD/Monitor etc.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Core i5 9600K
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Strix Z390-F Gaming
Memory
Corsair Vengeance Pro 2x 8GB (16GB) 3200MHz DDR4
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X 8GB
Sound Card
ASRock A-Style Purity Sound
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS VX239H IPS
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
XPG SPECTRIX S40G 2566GB M.2 NVMe | Patriot P210 512GB SSD | Seagate BarraCuda 4TB 5400RPM
PSU
Thermaltake Smart 600w RGB 80Plus
Case
NZXT H500 with 3x Corsair HD120 RGB w/Node Pro
Cooling
Cryorig H7
Keyboard
Corsair K70 RapidFire RGB (Cherry MX Speed)
Mouse
Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury
Internet Speed
20MB Cable Broadband
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
Corsair MM300 Extended Anti-Fray Mouse Pad | Edifier C2 2.1ch Sound System | XBOX One S Controller | XBOX 360 Wireless Controller for Windows | APC SUA1000i Smart-UPS | PS4 Slim 500GB [Region 1 - USA]
It is getting power.
It was working before i did the jumper method. no one touched it so i suppose it is working but not 100% sure.. will try another one if i can find one.
the wall switch is on & working since one TV is also in the same switch and working fine.
No I haven't tried another PSU yet, since i don't have any other in my reach, need to buy one in order to test another one.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows Ultimate x64
check the PSU, most I know have a dedicated on-off switch (although I work with oldish stuff, don't know about newer ones). If it is turned off even if it receives power from the wall it won't work (duh!).

This detail caused annoyance more than once, to me at least.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
custom built
OS
Win 7 Pro 64-bit 7601
CPU
AMD Phenom 9650 QuadCore, revision DR-B3
Motherboard
ASUS M4A78
Memory
5 GB yes I run 2x 2GB and 1x 1GB, different brand, spank me.
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT 512 Mb, unknown manufacturer.
Sound Card
Crappy Realtek Integrated Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Fujitsu Siemens P19-3P
Screen Resolution
1280 x 1024 x 32 bits @ 60 Hz Oh yeah, 4:3 rocks!
Hard Drives
(1) MAXTOR S TM3320613AS SATA Disk Device (2) STM35004 18AS SATA Disk Device (3) TOSHIBA USB 2.5"-HDD
PSU
whatever, around 450w
Case
Scavenged from old company PC, 10+ years old
Cooling
CPU fan, GPU fan, case fan, nothing fancy
Keyboard
Microsoft, PS/2, white.
Mouse
Optical, logitec.
Internet Speed
effective max speeds: 70-ish kB/s down 30-ish kB/s up
Antivirus
Avira, free edition.
Browser
Firefox with FXChrome to make it look like Google Chrome :P
Other Info
Was discarded by previous owner due to "horrible performance".
Was running Win Xp from a IDE drive. Yeah. Was a pain.
SATA II drive and Win7 and it zips away! Yay!
i know its sounds rediculuse but have you checked the connections for the power button that turns the pc on off that is located on the front of ur case?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Packard Bell iMedia 2218 -- Has Been Running For Almost 7 Years!
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x86
CPU
Intel Pentium D 925 @ 3.00GHz
Motherboard
Socket 775 MCP73VT-PM
Memory
1GB DDR2 667MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Overclocked Asus ATI Radeon X1600 Pro 512MB
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy 570
Monitor(s) Displays
19" LCD Monitor; MW19E-AAA
Screen Resolution
1440 x 900
Hard Drives
500gb 7200rpm (Windows 7) ---
160gb 7200rpm (Backup) ---
1TB Iomega External Drive (7200rpm)
PSU
250w Packard Bell Standard
Case
Packard Bell standard
Cooling
Intel Socket 775 Air Cooler
Keyboard
Wired PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse
Dell Wireless USB Mouse
Internet Speed
Wireles --- Download - 6.63 Mbps Upload - 0.38 Mbps
Other Info
Currently Planning To Build New Computer --- Also Got A Samsung Galaxy Ace II (Plays All Games You Throw At It)
I noticed in the other thread you started you were asked for your specs. We still don't have your specs. Use Speccy to get them.
Speccy - System Information - Free Download
Install them using User CP at the top of the page. That way they will follow your every post.
Did you follow any of the suggestions in the other thread and what were they and the results.
It's very hard to help with out specs and jumping around from thread to thread for the same computer with the same problem. The right hand doesn't know what the left hand is doing. I would recommend using one thread and not jumping all over the Forum for the same problem with the same computer.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
I posted this in your other thread, but I'll add it here too.
Normally, even when there are only two pins, the plastic jumper will still be there, only connected to one pin. Inside the plastic shell is a metal contact that shorts whatever two pins its connected to. Shorting the two pins with a metal object is the same as putting the jumper on and then taking it back off again. If the power supply is unplugged, and any residual power drained, nothing bad should happen when you short the pins. Pressing the power button with the supply unplugged will drain off any residual power. The only other thing to watch out for is a static discharge when using a screwdriver or other similar device. If you fingers are touching the metal shaft a static discharge can happen and damage the motherboard. That's why the jumpers have a non conductive shell. CMOS chips are especially susceptible to static discharge damage. It sounds like, even though proper procedures were followed that something got damaged on the motherboard.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built
OS
Windows 10 Education 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4 980 Black Edition Deneb 3.7GHz
Motherboard
Asus M4N68T-M V2 µATX Motherboard
Memory
8GB 4GBx2 Kingston PC10600 DDR3 1333 Memory
Graphics Card(s)
Zotac NVIDIA Geforce GT640 2 Gig DDR3 PCIe
Sound Card
VIA VT1708s High Definition Audio 8-channel Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
22" LG E2242 1080p and 2 19" I-INC AG191D
Screen Resolution
1280x1024 - 1920x1080 - 1280x1024
Hard Drives
Crucial M100 256 GB SSD and 500 GB WD Blue SATA
PSU
Thermaltake TR 620
Case
Power Up Black ATX Mid-Tower Case
Cooling
Stock heatsink and fan
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless K350 Wave
Mouse
Logitech Wireless M570 Trackman Wheel
Internet Speed
80 Mbps Down 30 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
HP DVD1040e Lightscribe - External USB2
I noticed in the other thread you started you were asked for your specs. We still don't have your specs.
He posted his specs in the OP.
And running speccy on a computer that refuses to turn on is... complex. :p
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
custom built
OS
Win 7 Pro 64-bit 7601
CPU
AMD Phenom 9650 QuadCore, revision DR-B3
Motherboard
ASUS M4A78
Memory
5 GB yes I run 2x 2GB and 1x 1GB, different brand, spank me.
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT 512 Mb, unknown manufacturer.
Sound Card
Crappy Realtek Integrated Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Fujitsu Siemens P19-3P
Screen Resolution
1280 x 1024 x 32 bits @ 60 Hz Oh yeah, 4:3 rocks!
Hard Drives
(1) MAXTOR S TM3320613AS SATA Disk Device (2) STM35004 18AS SATA Disk Device (3) TOSHIBA USB 2.5"-HDD
PSU
whatever, around 450w
Case
Scavenged from old company PC, 10+ years old
Cooling
CPU fan, GPU fan, case fan, nothing fancy
Keyboard
Microsoft, PS/2, white.
Mouse
Optical, logitec.
Internet Speed
effective max speeds: 70-ish kB/s down 30-ish kB/s up
Antivirus
Avira, free edition.
Browser
Firefox with FXChrome to make it look like Google Chrome :P
Other Info
Was discarded by previous owner due to "horrible performance".
Was running Win Xp from a IDE drive. Yeah. Was a pain.
SATA II drive and Win7 and it zips away! Yay!
I posted this in your other thread, but I'll add it here too.
Normally, even when there are only two pins, the plastic jumper will still be there, only connected to one pin. Inside the plastic shell is a metal contact that shorts whatever two pins its connected to. Shorting the two pins with a metal object is the same as putting the jumper on and then taking it back off again. If the power supply is unplugged, and any residual power drained, nothing bad should happen when you short the pins. Pressing the power button with the supply unplugged will drain off any residual power. The only other thing to watch out for is a static discharge when using a screwdriver or other similar device. If you fingers are touching the metal shaft a static discharge can happen and damage the motherboard. That's why the jumpers have a non conductive shell. CMOS chips are especially susceptible to static discharge damage. It sounds like, even though proper procedures were followed that something got damaged on the motherboard.

I don't doubt that something has happened, I can only find 3 possibilities.
1. The PSU not working
2. the Motherboard not working
3. the power botton is disconnected from the motherboard.

for 1. is it possible to damage an 850 w corsair 80+ through a static discharge? If not then i don't think that it is likely that the PSU is totally dead. Don't know if an damaged PSU allows you to boot up into the startup screen before shutting off again, if it can then possibly the PSU is damaged. (2 years warranty which still is valid can solve that problem)

2. If somehow I've managed to damage my motherboard meanwhile proper procedures were followed am i able to ask for a new board from the manufacturer? Or will i have to buy a new one myself?

3. Since the issue went from boot up problem to a dead computer by connecting the jumper pins with a screwdriver, i find it very unlikely that this is the issue.

an clear answer on these three will give me a clear picture and make it easier to see where i am currently standing in the situation.

Thanks.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows Ultimate x64
a failed psu can either stop working or take the whole computer with it.

hoping it's not the psu is one way to go but they aren't full proof and do fail even the best ones fail.

if it's the motherboard then again refer to the psu and get it checked, motherboards don't just fail for fun or to give you a headache.

and the power button...just check the cable and the end going to the board make sure 100% that it's connected to the right pins don't guess really make sure.

best of luck and hope to hear good news
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
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OS
.
CPU
.
Motherboard
.
Memory
.
Graphics Card(s)
.
Monitor(s) Displays
.
Screen Resolution
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Hard Drives
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PSU
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Case
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Cooling
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Keyboard
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Mouse
.
Internet Speed
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Other Info
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It could be any one of the three things you listed, I'm just going by what I know and what I think might have happened. There is a +5V Auxiliary power supply in the main PC power supply. It is always on, it only turns off if you unplug the power supply or turn the switch off on the back, if it has one. That +5V feeds the circuit on the motherboard that powers up the PC when you press the power button. That circuit feeds a signal back to the power supply and turns on the main switching power supply that powers everything. Originally your PC would attempt to turn on, so that circuit was working and the case power button was working. Now nothing happens so that means things have gotten worse. If you didn't unplug any cables or knock anything lose it should still at least try to power up. It can't hurt to go over all the connections and make sure something didn't get knocked lose. Also make sure you switched the power supply power switch back on. The proper procedure for diagnosing a fault like this is to disconnect everything not needed for the PC to post. All you need is the power supply, motherboard, CPU with heat sink, one stick of RAM, and a Video card if the motherboard doesn't have onboard video. If everything is working the PC should boot to the BIOS screen with those components. If it still won't POST the only way to find the culprit is to swap things out. I'd start with the power supply. If you think the case power button is not working you can unplug it and connect the reset button in its place. They are electronically identical. Then press the reset button and see what happens. If the motherboard wasn't damaged during the BIOS reset then something else happened to make things worse. At the very least I would reseat any add-in cards like Video and reseat the RAM sticks. Then check the power cables that go from the power supply to the motherboard.
 
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My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built
OS
Windows 10 Education 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4 980 Black Edition Deneb 3.7GHz
Motherboard
Asus M4N68T-M V2 µATX Motherboard
Memory
8GB 4GBx2 Kingston PC10600 DDR3 1333 Memory
Graphics Card(s)
Zotac NVIDIA Geforce GT640 2 Gig DDR3 PCIe
Sound Card
VIA VT1708s High Definition Audio 8-channel Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
22" LG E2242 1080p and 2 19" I-INC AG191D
Screen Resolution
1280x1024 - 1920x1080 - 1280x1024
Hard Drives
Crucial M100 256 GB SSD and 500 GB WD Blue SATA
PSU
Thermaltake TR 620
Case
Power Up Black ATX Mid-Tower Case
Cooling
Stock heatsink and fan
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless K350 Wave
Mouse
Logitech Wireless M570 Trackman Wheel
Internet Speed
80 Mbps Down 30 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
HP DVD1040e Lightscribe - External USB2
so many things to check xd, but as alphanumeric points out start from scratch as if your building the pc from parts alone then check every cable and every connection.

If possible have spare parts on hand.

check for any loose screws ensure none are wedged behind the motherboard.

I seen a very long thread on here once where it must have seemed like every member of the community had a thought or idea of what was wrong most different and that was a very very long thread, end result was a dog hair that is easily missed in a ram slot while trying everything else under the sun didn't help, morale of the story...check and recheck everything:)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
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OS
.
CPU
.
Motherboard
.
Memory
.
Graphics Card(s)
.
Monitor(s) Displays
.
Screen Resolution
.
Hard Drives
.
PSU
.
Case
.
Cooling
.
Keyboard
.
Mouse
.
Internet Speed
.
Other Info
.
Ok, I've figured out that the thing preventing my computer from turning on is the earth on the power supply, Because when i do some diagnostics on the 24 pin connector on the power supply and put a metal object from the green cable and into a black one, the fans start spinning..
is there any way to get earth connection again or do i need to change my power supply?
Or is it still possible that the problem is on the motherboard not getting the earth connection through the the 24 pin connector?
 

My Computer

OS
Windows Ultimate x64
It sounds as though your system is working correctly, as when you short the green lead (PS_ON) with one of the ground (black) leads, the system comes on. I would check the connections to your front panel switches, to ensure that they are correctly fitted and working. As both the reset and power switches are of the same type, try swapping them over to eliminate the possibility of a faulty switch.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dwarf Dwf/11/2012 r09/2013
OS
Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64
CPU
Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Bridge) (OC 4.4GHz)
Motherboard
ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
Memory
4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B (16GB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition on board solution (ALC 898)
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VA1912w Widescreen (VGA)
Screen Resolution
1440x900
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility 3 SSD 120GB SATA III x2 (RAID 0)
Samsung HD501LJ 500GB SATA II x2
Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB SATA II
Iomega 1.5TB Ext USB 2.0
WD 2.0TB Ext USB 3.0
PSU
XFX Pro Series 850W Semi-Modular
Case
Gigabyte IF233
Cooling
1 x 120mm Front Inlet 1 x 120mm Rear Exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 (USB)
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Mouse 3000 for Business (USB)
Internet Speed
NetGear DG834Gv3 ADSL Modem/Router (Ethernet) ~4.0 Mb/s (O2)
Antivirus
Avast! 8.0.1497
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
Optical Drive: HL-DT-ST BD-RE BH10LS30 SATA Bluray
Lexmark S305 Printer/Scanner/Copier (USB)
WEI Score: 8.1/8.1/8.5/8.5/8.25
Asus Eee PC 1011PX Netbook (Windows 7 x86 Starter)
Dead or dying ram or video card can cause same symptoms too, have you tried stripping down to a barebones setup?
no video card or harddrive etc? can help sometimes.
Antz
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Homebrew
OS
Windows 7 ultimate x64
CPU
Intel G850 @ 2.9Ghz
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-H77M-D3H
Memory
G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Ati 5670HD 1Gb
Sound Card
onboard
Screen Resolution
1280x1024
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility 3 sata 3 120Gb SSD + 500WD Black edition HDD
PSU
460W corsair
Case
generic
Cooling
120mm thermaltake 2x 80mm deepecool. stock heatsink on CPU.
Other Info
Total Build Cost so far Approx $550Nzd .. plays most stuff GREAT! need more ram and a new CPU!
Dead or dying ram or video card can cause same symptoms too, have you tried stripping down to a barebones setup?
no video card or harddrive etc? can help sometimes.
Antz

If the Motherboard and Power Supply is functional - and the problem was laying in the Ram or VGA, wouldn't there be any biiib sound code from the motherboard then?

or can an problem in vga/ ram make the computer totally dead , no led, no sounds, no fan.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows Ultimate x64
Dead or dying ram or video card can cause same symptoms too, have you tried stripping down to a barebones setup?
no video card or harddrive etc? can help sometimes.
Antz

If the Motherboard and Power Supply is functional - and the problem was laying in the Ram or VGA, wouldn't there be any biiib sound code from the motherboard then?

or can an problem in vga/ ram make the computer totally dead , no led, no sounds, no fan.

Not always, but more often than not, I would expect a beep code if the motherboard was functional. The test you did shows that the power supply is probably OK. Its just not getting the turn on signal from the motherboard. So its either a motherboard fault or a defective case power button. As mentioned you can swap the case power and reset buttons and then try pressing the reset button to turn the PC on. Or unplug the case power button and momentarily short the two motherboard power pins with a screw driver.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built
OS
Windows 10 Education 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4 980 Black Edition Deneb 3.7GHz
Motherboard
Asus M4N68T-M V2 µATX Motherboard
Memory
8GB 4GBx2 Kingston PC10600 DDR3 1333 Memory
Graphics Card(s)
Zotac NVIDIA Geforce GT640 2 Gig DDR3 PCIe
Sound Card
VIA VT1708s High Definition Audio 8-channel Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
22" LG E2242 1080p and 2 19" I-INC AG191D
Screen Resolution
1280x1024 - 1920x1080 - 1280x1024
Hard Drives
Crucial M100 256 GB SSD and 500 GB WD Blue SATA
PSU
Thermaltake TR 620
Case
Power Up Black ATX Mid-Tower Case
Cooling
Stock heatsink and fan
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless K350 Wave
Mouse
Logitech Wireless M570 Trackman Wheel
Internet Speed
80 Mbps Down 30 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
HP DVD1040e Lightscribe - External USB2
Just because the psu fan spins when the power on is triggered doesn't mean all the various +5V +12V +3.3V etc are present on every connector. I recently had a failed psu where just one of the 5Vs was down. The OP should use a multimeter (less than 5GBP from Amazon) to check all the DC voltages.

Note to any noobs - be VERY careful attempting the power on short test at the 24 pin socket. Its easy to screw the psu if you short the +5V etc.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
self build
OS
Windows 7 pro x64 SP1
CPU
Intel i7-2600k o/c to 4.6GHz
Motherboard
MSI Z68-GD80
Memory
8GB Mushkin 1866MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GTX 750 Ti 2GB
Sound Card
integrated
Monitor(s) Displays
Liyama ProLite 27"
Screen Resolution
1920*1080 px
Hard Drives
Seagate 2TB
PSU
Coolermaster GX 750W
Case
Antec 300 case + 5 fans
Cooling
Dark Rock Pro
Internet Speed
62Mbit down 18Mbit up
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Blackgold BGT3650 Quad HD TV card. Also have various 3770 + 4770K render boxes.
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