| Windows 7: is my computer dead? |
19 Sep 2012
|
#1 | | |
is my computer dead? Situation:
When i try to turn on my computer nothing happens. I don't see any LED turned on, no fan noise, no biib.
Spec:
Ocz vertex 3 256 gb. boot drive
Intel Core i7-2600 k @ 4.4 ghz /w Noctua NH-D14
gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD4-B3 (rev. 1.0)
Radeon HD 6950 2GB
corsair vengeance 1600 Mhz cl8
History:
I got a thread in General discussion ( Computer doesn't start cant get into bios or advanced start up setting)
Where i was trying several things since i couldn't get into the bios nor advanced boot, got suggested to reset my CMOS and tried the method by unplugging the battery, didn't work then i tried the Jumper pins, and saw on the internet that i can use some metal object to connect the pins and i used a screwdriver. after that I haven't seen any signal from my computer.
If you read through my general discussion debate then you get a good picture of the situation. | My System Specs |
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19 Sep 2012
|
#2 | | |
Have you tried a NEW PSU?
have you tried a NEW CABLE?
Do you know that its getting POWER?
Is the Switch on the wall ON? | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Home Build. OS Windows 7 Home Pre CPU Q8200 Intell 2.333 Motherboard Asus P5Q3 Delux Memory DDR3 1333 4gig Graphics Card Ati HD4870 Sound Card Onboard Soundmax. 7.1 Monitor(s) Displays 1, 20" Samsung Screen Resolution 1600/900 Keyboard Standard, Gaming Wolfking Mouse Cm-storm-inferno-wired-gaming-mouse PSU Good enough Case Le Shark Cooling FAN FAN FAN FAN, Thermaltake Minitype 90 with speed fan 4. Internet Speed Sky Crappy upto 20meg I get a whapping 5.8mbs. |
19 Sep 2012
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#3 | | Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1 Lahore, Pakistan |
2 days ago my brother was trying to Turn on his PC and it was'nt doing anything... all i did was i changed the Power Cord and it's working again. That's possible that your Power Cord has died so try another one if you have a spare or just take one of the LCD/Monitor etc. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Self Built OS Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1 CPU Waiting for Haswell Motherboard Waiting for Haswell Memory G.Skill Ripjaws X 2x 2GB DDR3 1333 CL7 Graphics Card Will be next after Haswell Sound Card Built-In Monitor(s) Displays Samsung 933BW Plus Screen Resolution 1440x900 Keyboard A4Tech X7 G800 Mouse A4Tech X7 XL-747h + X7 801 Mouse Pad PSU Cooler Master GX-550w 80 Plus Bronze Case Cooler Master Elite 430 Black Cooling Waiting for Haswell Hard Drives Will buy after getting upcoming Haswell Internet Speed 4MB Cable Broadband Other Info Lamptron FC-5 V2 Fan Controller | Lamptron Dual CCFL Kit (Blue) | Liteon iHAS 322-07B DVD-RW | Xigmatek XLF-F1253 | CM 2x 120mm's | SVC 1.2KVA Off-line UPS |
20 Sep 2012
|
#4 | | |
It is getting power.
It was working before i did the jumper method. no one touched it so i suppose it is working but not 100% sure.. will try another one if i can find one.
the wall switch is on & working since one TV is also in the same switch and working fine.
No I haven't tried another PSU yet, since i don't have any other in my reach, need to buy one in order to test another one. | My System Specs | | |
20 Sep 2012
|
#5 | | Win 7 Pro 64-bit 7601 Italy |
check the PSU, most I know have a dedicated on-off switch (although I work with oldish stuff, don't know about newer ones). If it is turned off even if it receives power from the wall it won't work (duh!).
This detail caused annoyance more than once, to me at least. | My System Specs | | Computer type PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number custom built OS Win 7 Pro 64-bit 7601 CPU AMD Phenom 9650 QuadCore, revision DR-B3 Motherboard ASUS M4A78 Memory 4,00 GB Graphics Card NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT Sound Card Realtek High Definition Audio Monitor(s) Displays Fujitsu Siemens P19-3P Screen Resolution 1280 x 1024 x 32 bits @ 60 Hz Oh yeah, 4:3 rocks! Keyboard Microsoft, whatever. Mouse Optical, logitec. PSU whatever, around 450w Case Scavenged from old company PC, 10+ years old Cooling CPU fan, GPU fan, case fan, nothing fancy Hard Drives (1) MAXTOR S TM3320613AS SATA Disk Device (2) STM35004 18AS SATA Disk Device (3) TOSHIBA USB 2.5"-HDD Internet Speed effective max speeds: 70-ish kB/s down 30-ish kB/s up Antivirus Avira, free endition. Browser Firefox with FXChrome to make it look like Google Chrome Other Info Was discarded by previous owner due to "horrible performance".
Was running Win Xp from a IDE drive. Yeah. Was a pain.
SATA II drive and Win7 and it zips away! Yay! |
20 Sep 2012
|
#6 | | Windows 7 Ultimate x86 Merthyr Tydfil, Wales |
i know its sounds rediculuse but have you checked the connections for the power button that turns the pc on off that is located on the front of ur case? | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Packard Bell iMedia 2218 -- Has Been Running For Almost 7 Years! OS Windows 7 Ultimate x86 CPU Intel Pentium D 925 @ 3.00GHz Motherboard Socket 775 MCP73VT-PM Memory 1GB DDR2 667MHz Graphics Card Overclocked Asus ATI Radeon X1600 Pro 512MB Sound Card Sound Blaster Audigy 570 Monitor(s) Displays 19" LCD Monitor; MW19E-AAA Screen Resolution 1440 x 900 Keyboard Wired PS/2 Keyboard Mouse Dell Wireless USB Mouse PSU 250w Packard Bell Standard Case Packard Bell standard Cooling Intel Socket 775 Air Cooler Hard Drives 500gb 7200rpm (Windows 7) ---
160gb 7200rpm (Backup) ---
1TB Iomega External Drive (7200rpm) Internet Speed Wireles --- Download - 6.63 Mbps Upload - 0.38 Mbps Other Info Currently Planning To Build New Computer --- Also Got A Samsung Galaxy Ace II (Plays All Games You Throw At It) |
20 Sep 2012
|
#7 | | Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit. SP-1 Northern Ohio |
I noticed in the other thread you started you were asked for your specs. We still don't have your specs. Use Speccy to get them. Speccy - System Information - Free Download
Install them using User CP at the top of the page. That way they will follow your every post.
Did you follow any of the suggestions in the other thread and what were they and the results.
It's very hard to help with out specs and jumping around from thread to thread for the same computer with the same problem. The right hand doesn't know what the left hand is doing. I would recommend using one thread and not jumping all over the Forum for the same problem with the same computer. | My System Specs | | Computer type PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number Home made Desktop OS Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit. SP-1 CPU Intel i7-960-3.2 @ 4.25 Motherboard ASUS P6X58D-E Memory KINGSTON KHX2000C9, Hyper X,12 GIGS Graphics Card MSI/Nvidia/460GTX-Cyclone 1GD5/OC Monitor(s) Displays DYNEX 40 IN. Screen Resolution 1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI Keyboard M/S 3000 v 2.0 wireless Mouse M/S 5000 wireless PSU Corsair AX-850 Plus Gold Case Corsair 600T (Black) + side panel with 2 140 mm Noctua fans Cooling Corsair H50/2 Noctua NF-P12 (120 mm) Push/Pull- Hard Drives INTEL SSD 120GB-SER 510
Seagate 1TB SATA 600 7200 rpm Hard Drive Internet Speed 3.0 mb Antivirus Microsoft Security Eesentials Browser I.E. 10 default/Firefox Other Info LG BluRay-Read/Write
Sound system
KLipsch-THX
Asus Router RTN-12
2 Noctua 140 added on top of 600t case
Malwarebytes Anti Malware Professional
Windows 7 Firewall |
20 Sep 2012
|
#8 | | Windows 7 Ultimate AMD64 Sydney, Nova Scotia |
I posted this in your other thread, but I'll add it here too.
Normally, even when there are only two pins, the plastic jumper will still be there, only connected to one pin. Inside the plastic shell is a metal contact that shorts whatever two pins its connected to. Shorting the two pins with a metal object is the same as putting the jumper on and then taking it back off again. If the power supply is unplugged, and any residual power drained, nothing bad should happen when you short the pins. Pressing the power button with the supply unplugged will drain off any residual power. The only other thing to watch out for is a static discharge when using a screwdriver or other similar device. If you fingers are touching the metal shaft a static discharge can happen and damage the motherboard. That's why the jumpers have a non conductive shell. CMOS chips are especially susceptible to static discharge damage. It sounds like, even though proper procedures were followed that something got damaged on the motherboard. | My System Specs | | Computer type PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number Home Built OS Windows 7 Ultimate AMD64 CPU AMD Phenom II X4 980 Black Edition Deneb 3.7GHz Motherboard Asus M4N68T-M V2 µATX Motherboard Memory 8GB 4GBx2 Kingston PC10600 DDR3 1333 Memory Graphics Card BFG NVIDIA Geforce 220GT 1 Gig DDR2 PCIe Sound Card VIA VT1708s High Definition Audio 8-channel Onboard Monitor(s) Displays 2 x 19" I-INC AG191D TFT Flat Panel Screen Resolution 1280x1024 x 2 Keyboard Logitech Internet 600 Mouse Logitech Wireless Trackman Wheel PSU Retail Plus 465 Watt Case Power Up Black ATX Mid-Tower Case Cooling Stock heatsink and fan Hard Drives 500 Gig WesternDigital SATA-300 Drive Internet Speed 80 Mbps Down 30 Mbps Up Antivirus Microsoft Security Essentials Browser Internet Explorer 10 Other Info HP DVD1040e Lightscribe - External USB2 |
21 Sep 2012
|
#9 | | Win 7 Pro 64-bit 7601 Italy |

Quote: Originally Posted by Layback Bear I noticed in the other thread you started you were asked for your specs. We still don't have your specs. He posted his specs in the OP.
And running speccy on a computer that refuses to turn on is... complex. | My System Specs | | Computer type PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number custom built OS Win 7 Pro 64-bit 7601 CPU AMD Phenom 9650 QuadCore, revision DR-B3 Motherboard ASUS M4A78 Memory 4,00 GB Graphics Card NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT Sound Card Realtek High Definition Audio Monitor(s) Displays Fujitsu Siemens P19-3P Screen Resolution 1280 x 1024 x 32 bits @ 60 Hz Oh yeah, 4:3 rocks! Keyboard Microsoft, whatever. Mouse Optical, logitec. PSU whatever, around 450w Case Scavenged from old company PC, 10+ years old Cooling CPU fan, GPU fan, case fan, nothing fancy Hard Drives (1) MAXTOR S TM3320613AS SATA Disk Device (2) STM35004 18AS SATA Disk Device (3) TOSHIBA USB 2.5"-HDD Internet Speed effective max speeds: 70-ish kB/s down 30-ish kB/s up Antivirus Avira, free endition. Browser Firefox with FXChrome to make it look like Google Chrome Other Info Was discarded by previous owner due to "horrible performance".
Was running Win Xp from a IDE drive. Yeah. Was a pain.
SATA II drive and Win7 and it zips away! Yay! |
21 Sep 2012
|
#10 | | |

Quote: Originally Posted by alphanumeric I posted this in your other thread, but I'll add it here too.
Normally, even when there are only two pins, the plastic jumper will still be there, only connected to one pin. Inside the plastic shell is a metal contact that shorts whatever two pins its connected to. Shorting the two pins with a metal object is the same as putting the jumper on and then taking it back off again. If the power supply is unplugged, and any residual power drained, nothing bad should happen when you short the pins. Pressing the power button with the supply unplugged will drain off any residual power. The only other thing to watch out for is a static discharge when using a screwdriver or other similar device. If you fingers are touching the metal shaft a static discharge can happen and damage the motherboard. That's why the jumpers have a non conductive shell. CMOS chips are especially susceptible to static discharge damage. It sounds like, even though proper procedures were followed that something got damaged on the motherboard. I don't doubt that something has happened, I can only find 3 possibilities.
1. The PSU not working
2. the Motherboard not working
3. the power botton is disconnected from the motherboard.
for 1. is it possible to damage an 850 w corsair 80+ through a static discharge? If not then i don't think that it is likely that the PSU is totally dead. Don't know if an damaged PSU allows you to boot up into the startup screen before shutting off again, if it can then possibly the PSU is damaged. (2 years warranty which still is valid can solve that problem)
2. If somehow I've managed to damage my motherboard meanwhile proper procedures were followed am i able to ask for a new board from the manufacturer? Or will i have to buy a new one myself?
3. Since the issue went from boot up problem to a dead computer by connecting the jumper pins with a screwdriver, i find it very unlikely that this is the issue.
an clear answer on these three will give me a clear picture and make it easier to see where i am currently standing in the situation.
Thanks. | My System Specs | | is my computer dead? problems? All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:51 PM. | |