| Windows 7: BIOS battery backup issue... |
23 Sep 2012
|
#11 | | Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1 In The Woods |
This is a 'simple' problem. The BIOS chip does not retain settings because it is losing power or shorting out.
Batteries are cheap enough to try another one just for kicks and grins. This time get a CR2032. It should not make any difference, but stranger things have occurred.
Another thing occurred to me:
Check you motherboard (refer to you manual if you have one) and find the CMOS Reset jumper. There are 3 pins. Normally the jumper is set on pins 1-2. To clear the CMOS settings you would move the jumper to 2-3 (with power off and battery out) to clear and then back to 1-2 to run. But if the jumper is loose (not pushed in all the way), incorrect, or missing that might explain the behavior with a good battery.
Otherwise you are shopping for repairs (at a computer shop) or a new motherboard. | My System Specs |
| Computer type PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number Home Built - Jan 2013 OS Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1 CPU i7-3820 Motherboard Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 3305 Memory GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB Graphics Card EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 310.90 Sound Card On board Realtek ALC898 Monitor(s) Displays Acer S271HL Screen Resolution 1920 x 1080 Keyboard MS KC-0405 Mouse Intellimouse 5-button PSU Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic) Case Corsair Obsidian 550D Cooling Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO Hard Drives #1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black Internet Speed 25Mbits/Sec (on a good day) Antivirus Avast & Malwarebytes Browser Firefox Other Info Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X |
23 Sep 2012
|
#12 | | |
Thanks TV.... I'll try the jumper and the new battery. Although, just some random thoughts...
If the battery cannot retain two BIOS settings, others seem to be fine including time/date, it does not seem to be battery issues; especially, when the battery just had been replaced. While measuring voltage does not indicate strength of the battery, the old, unmarked battery shows 3.15V; pretty much the same as the new Duracell one.
The motherboard does have jumpers as you described and will try that with and without the battery. Based on the manual for this board, with the battery in and changing the jumper, the BIOS is not cleared at times. I fail to see how the BIOS would be cleared when the battery is not connected, but I'll take their word without questioning.
Shopping for repair is out of question; I've built this machine by myself and pretty comfortable with ripping it apart and putting it together. It's a pain working on it since replacing the BIOS battery requires removing the video card and the jumper is hidden behind the cables, but I am OK.
Replacing the motherboard is also out of question. It's hard to find the same board, Newegg and other "trusted sources" does not sell it anymore. Less known sources sell it for around 300 bucks, which is a ripoff. The current i5-760 CPU (first generation) is getting old anyway and rather just build a new machine from scratch. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Custom built at Home OS Windows 7 64-bit CPU Intel i5-3350P 3.1 GHz Motherboard Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP5 TH Memory 16 GBs GSkill Sniper Graphics Card Radeon HD 7850 Sound Card VIA HD Audio Monitor(s) Displays Dell U2410 24" Screen Resolution 1920x1200 Keyboard Dell Multimedia keyboard Mouse Logitech Trackball PSU Thermaltake 850W Case Antec P183 Cooling Noctua NH-D14 Heatsink 2 x 120mm fans, 4 x 120mm case fans Hard Drives 1 x Intel 520 240 GBs
1 x Seagate 1TBs SATA 2.0,
1 x Seagate 1TBs eSATA 2.0 Internet Speed 28.5 Mb/s |
23 Sep 2012
|
#13 | | Windows 7 Pro X64 SP1 Danbury, CT |
A bit of (excessive?) precision:
The BIOS is stored in an EEPROM chip. It's completely nonvolatile; you can unplug the chip from the PC, and the BIOS is retained indefinitely.
The BIOS settings are retained in CMOS. That's volatile, but it takes very little power to maintain. The CMOS cell usually lasts for years. I usually replace a motherboard before its CMOS batter dies.
I'm not sure what might be causing your problem. I believe that most PCs won't boot if the ClearRTC (CMOS clearing) jumper is in the wrong position. I hope that you don't have a defective board. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number homegrown OS Windows 7 Pro X64 SP1 CPU Intel Core I7-3930k Motherboard Asus P9X79 Pro Memory 16 GB Gskill DDR3-2133 Graphics Card eVGA GTX680 Sound Card Creative X-Fi Titanium Monitor(s) Displays As PA246Q Screen Resolution 1920 X 1200 Keyboard cheap Logitech USB Mouse Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer (old optical) USB PSU PCP&C Silencer 750 Crossfire Case Silverstone FT02 Cooling Noctua NH-D14 Hard Drives Corsair Force GT, 120 GB
WDC 1.5TB Caviar Black Internet Speed 6Mb cable Other Info Pioneer BDR-205
Samsung SH-203B
Monsoon 5.1 speakers |
23 Sep 2012
|
#14 | | Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit. SP-1 Northern Ohio |
Just a though. One of my motherboards has the jumper in the instruction that came with the motherboard wrong. Went on line and got the correct jumper position. Next try to use a non Marvell SATA port if you have one. | My System Specs | | Computer type PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number Home made Desktop OS Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit. SP-1 CPU Intel i7-960-3.2 @ 4.25 Motherboard ASUS P6X58D-E Memory KINGSTON KHX2000C9, Hyper X,12 GIGS Graphics Card MSI/Nvidia/460GTX-Cyclone 1GD5/OC Monitor(s) Displays DYNEX 40 IN. Screen Resolution 1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI Keyboard M/S 3000 v 2.0 wireless Mouse M/S 5000 wireless PSU Corsair AX-850 Plus Gold Case Corsair 600T (Black) + side panel with 2 140 mm Noctua fans Cooling Corsair H50/2 Noctua NF-P12 (120 mm) Push/Pull- Hard Drives INTEL SSD 120GB-SER 510
Seagate 1TB SATA 600 7200 rpm Hard Drive Internet Speed 3.0 mb Antivirus Microsoft Security Eesentials Browser I.E. 10 default/Firefox Other Info LG BluRay-Read/Write
Sound system
KLipsch-THX
Asus Router RTN-12
2 Noctua 140 added on top of 600t case
Malwarebytes Anti Malware Professional
Windows 7 Firewall |
24 Sep 2012
|
#15 | | |

Quote: Originally Posted by bobkn A bit of (excessive?) precision:
The BIOS is stored in an EEPROM chip. It's completely nonvolatile; you can unplug the chip from the PC, and the BIOS is retained indefinitely.
The BIOS settings are retained in CMOS. That's volatile, but it takes very little power to maintain. The CMOS cell usually lasts for years. I usually replace a motherboard before its CMOS batter dies.
I'm not sure what might be causing your problem. I believe that most PCs won't boot if the ClearRTC (CMOS clearing) jumper is in the wrong position. I hope that you don't have a defective board. Thanks bobkn for the lesson...
So, the EEPROM holds the BIOS configuration and the default settings for the motherboard. When updating or flushing the BIOS, it is the EEPROM that gets the new version. In another word, the EEPROM is non-volatile RAM, or NVRAM.
CMOS on the other hand could be viewed as volatile RAM, where "non-default" BIOS settings are stored, or lost if the battery fails. These settings are are not normally changed during the BIOS update or flush.
I think you're correct, with the ClearRTC in the wrong position the PC would not boot...
Last edited by Cr00zng; 24 Sep 2012 at 06:51 AM..
Reason: Spelling, the ones that were recognized...
| My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Custom built at Home OS Windows 7 64-bit CPU Intel i5-3350P 3.1 GHz Motherboard Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP5 TH Memory 16 GBs GSkill Sniper Graphics Card Radeon HD 7850 Sound Card VIA HD Audio Monitor(s) Displays Dell U2410 24" Screen Resolution 1920x1200 Keyboard Dell Multimedia keyboard Mouse Logitech Trackball PSU Thermaltake 850W Case Antec P183 Cooling Noctua NH-D14 Heatsink 2 x 120mm fans, 4 x 120mm case fans Hard Drives 1 x Intel 520 240 GBs
1 x Seagate 1TBs SATA 2.0,
1 x Seagate 1TBs eSATA 2.0 Internet Speed 28.5 Mb/s |
24 Sep 2012
|
#16 | | |

Quote: Originally Posted by Layback Bear Just a though. One of my motherboards has the jumper in the instruction that came with the motherboard wrong. Went on line and got the correct jumper position. Next try to use a non Marvell SATA port if you have one. This PC is almost two years old and running just fine until lately. Once the BIOS, or more correctly the CMOS is reprogrammed, the system works just fine. The Marvell SATA port that has its own BIOS and works just fine during the boot process and within Windows.
While I didn't have time to clear the CMOS via the jumper, unintentionally that had been done already. Couple of days ego the CMOS battery had been changed, that did a "ClearRTC". That was the only time when the time/date had been lost; other times it is the storage type and the boot order that are changed.
On the surface, it does seem that the PC has a bad motherboard. The "easy part had been done already like, change CMOS battery, ClearRTC, flush the EEPROM, or BIOS, without remediating the issue. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Custom built at Home OS Windows 7 64-bit CPU Intel i5-3350P 3.1 GHz Motherboard Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP5 TH Memory 16 GBs GSkill Sniper Graphics Card Radeon HD 7850 Sound Card VIA HD Audio Monitor(s) Displays Dell U2410 24" Screen Resolution 1920x1200 Keyboard Dell Multimedia keyboard Mouse Logitech Trackball PSU Thermaltake 850W Case Antec P183 Cooling Noctua NH-D14 Heatsink 2 x 120mm fans, 4 x 120mm case fans Hard Drives 1 x Intel 520 240 GBs
1 x Seagate 1TBs SATA 2.0,
1 x Seagate 1TBs eSATA 2.0 Internet Speed 28.5 Mb/s |
24 Sep 2012
|
#17 | | |
During my "training" session about the BIOS, or rather the EEPROM and CMOS, it became evident that the EEPROM should not be flushed within Windows. Nor should it be flushed utilizing Asus Update within Windows. The recommended method is "Asus EZ Flush2" within the CMOS configuration, or the "bupdater.exe" DOS utility.
The EEPROM had been flushed via "Asus EZ Flush2" and upon reboot, it came up with this message: Quote: New CPU installed, please enter setup to configure your system Pressed "F1", checked the configuration, saved it, and rebooted. The first reboot resulted in a "reset" where system in itself killed the power for 5-10 seconds. Interestingly, there had been no changes made to any other settings within the CMOS; the date/time, storage type, boot order, etc remained the same.
The system had been shutdown, power killed to the box for 5-10 minutes, turned the power strip switch on, and booted the PC. The system passed the BIOS screen and booted Windows, without any interaction with the BIOS.
On the surface, it does seem like that the issue had been resolved; however, the real test is still remaining. The power strip switch will be shut off overnight; if it boots just fine in the morning, then this issue is resolved. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Custom built at Home OS Windows 7 64-bit CPU Intel i5-3350P 3.1 GHz Motherboard Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP5 TH Memory 16 GBs GSkill Sniper Graphics Card Radeon HD 7850 Sound Card VIA HD Audio Monitor(s) Displays Dell U2410 24" Screen Resolution 1920x1200 Keyboard Dell Multimedia keyboard Mouse Logitech Trackball PSU Thermaltake 850W Case Antec P183 Cooling Noctua NH-D14 Heatsink 2 x 120mm fans, 4 x 120mm case fans Hard Drives 1 x Intel 520 240 GBs
1 x Seagate 1TBs SATA 2.0,
1 x Seagate 1TBs eSATA 2.0 Internet Speed 28.5 Mb/s |
25 Sep 2012
|
#18 | | Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit. SP-1 Northern Ohio |
Cr00zng
Please keep us posted how things are working.
I also use Asus easy flash and it works great for me as along as I format the memory stick to Fat 32 first. | My System Specs | | Computer type PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number Home made Desktop OS Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit. SP-1 CPU Intel i7-960-3.2 @ 4.25 Motherboard ASUS P6X58D-E Memory KINGSTON KHX2000C9, Hyper X,12 GIGS Graphics Card MSI/Nvidia/460GTX-Cyclone 1GD5/OC Monitor(s) Displays DYNEX 40 IN. Screen Resolution 1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI Keyboard M/S 3000 v 2.0 wireless Mouse M/S 5000 wireless PSU Corsair AX-850 Plus Gold Case Corsair 600T (Black) + side panel with 2 140 mm Noctua fans Cooling Corsair H50/2 Noctua NF-P12 (120 mm) Push/Pull- Hard Drives INTEL SSD 120GB-SER 510
Seagate 1TB SATA 600 7200 rpm Hard Drive Internet Speed 3.0 mb Antivirus Microsoft Security Eesentials Browser I.E. 10 default/Firefox Other Info LG BluRay-Read/Write
Sound system
KLipsch-THX
Asus Router RTN-12
2 Noctua 140 added on top of 600t case
Malwarebytes Anti Malware Professional
Windows 7 Firewall |
25 Sep 2012
|
#19 | | |
Well, the issue has not been resolved and I doubt that it will be anytime soon...
Shutting off the power strip at night resulted in BIOS error and asking for running the setup. At this time, none of the BIOS settings were changed; the storage type, boot order, etc., were correct. After saving the BIOS without making any changes, the machine booted just fine.
I've rebooted the box, got into the BIOS again, change the storage type from IDE to ACHI, saved it, and booted to Windows. The OS started up just fine and didn't even asked for reboot. The system is running in AHCI mode, and the performance improvement is quite noticeable both during bootup time and general use.
I am curious as to why shutting off the power to the box has this issue? Everything points to the battery backup for the CMOS, or BIOS, but that doesn't make much sense.
Both the original, about two years old, and the new batteries are good. Shutting down the PC shuts of the power supply and there should be no power to the motherboard going through the power supply. Shutting off the power strip shouldn't make any difference, as far as the power supply and the BIOS battery backup is concerned. It's a weird issue... | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Custom built at Home OS Windows 7 64-bit CPU Intel i5-3350P 3.1 GHz Motherboard Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP5 TH Memory 16 GBs GSkill Sniper Graphics Card Radeon HD 7850 Sound Card VIA HD Audio Monitor(s) Displays Dell U2410 24" Screen Resolution 1920x1200 Keyboard Dell Multimedia keyboard Mouse Logitech Trackball PSU Thermaltake 850W Case Antec P183 Cooling Noctua NH-D14 Heatsink 2 x 120mm fans, 4 x 120mm case fans Hard Drives 1 x Intel 520 240 GBs
1 x Seagate 1TBs SATA 2.0,
1 x Seagate 1TBs eSATA 2.0 Internet Speed 28.5 Mb/s |
25 Sep 2012
|
#20 | | Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit. SP-1 Northern Ohio |
I think trying a different power strip would be the next thing to do. I don't use power strips. I use surge protectors and I shut them off several times a day. The only thing I can think of is the power strip has a partial power to ground short causing the problem. You could also try just plugging the computer into the wall outlet; when done shut the computer down and unplug it from the wall. Plug it back in again and boot your computer and see if their/there is still a problem.
If I have missed this action already has been done I apologize. | My System Specs | | Computer type PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number Home made Desktop OS Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit. SP-1 CPU Intel i7-960-3.2 @ 4.25 Motherboard ASUS P6X58D-E Memory KINGSTON KHX2000C9, Hyper X,12 GIGS Graphics Card MSI/Nvidia/460GTX-Cyclone 1GD5/OC Monitor(s) Displays DYNEX 40 IN. Screen Resolution 1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI Keyboard M/S 3000 v 2.0 wireless Mouse M/S 5000 wireless PSU Corsair AX-850 Plus Gold Case Corsair 600T (Black) + side panel with 2 140 mm Noctua fans Cooling Corsair H50/2 Noctua NF-P12 (120 mm) Push/Pull- Hard Drives INTEL SSD 120GB-SER 510
Seagate 1TB SATA 600 7200 rpm Hard Drive Internet Speed 3.0 mb Antivirus Microsoft Security Eesentials Browser I.E. 10 default/Firefox Other Info LG BluRay-Read/Write
Sound system
KLipsch-THX
Asus Router RTN-12
2 Noctua 140 added on top of 600t case
Malwarebytes Anti Malware Professional
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