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Windows 7: New CPU cooler for my PC

05 Jan 2013   #31
LittleJay

Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit SP 1
 
 

In another thread I read that with the 212 plus will need to have the gaps between the heat pipes filled in with thermal compound before you put it on and I was wondering what the best method for doing this is.


My System SpecsSystem Spec
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05 Jan 2013   #32
kbrady1979

Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
 
 

I have seen very low quality thermal paste get hard and lose its conductive properties after awhile.......it's not common, but it does happen. As for the gaps in the cooler base, depending on how deep they are, you may not have to do anything different. If the gaps are fairly deep, you may need to put a bigger dollop of paste on the CPU and let it fill in the gaps when you are applying pressure and twisting it. I'm sure someone will have another way of doing it, but just remember that the paste you got will spread out quite a bit more than other pastes.
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05 Jan 2013   #33
LittleJay

Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit SP 1
 
 

Thanks Kelly, I really appreciate your input! I removed the motherboard today, after making notes of where everything is supposed to hook back up. The Haf X case soes have a cut out in back of the CPU, but I noticed that the edge of case still covers about half of the holes for mounting the bracket. This experience will help to give me the confidence to build my own PC someday.
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05 Jan 2013   #34
linnemeyerhere

Microsoft Community Contributor Award Recipient

Windows 7 Ultimate 64
 
 

With those gaps as I mentioned previously.......I would fill those with thermal paste using a pea size dot then a piece of plastic to just fill the gaps in and maybe just a smear over the rest of the surface, then drop two rice grain sized lines on the CPU and mount. Or you can add just a bit more of the paste on the cooler side again create a thin layer over the cooler plate end mount it on a clean CPU.
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05 Jan 2013   #35
LittleJay

Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit SP 1
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by linnemeyerhere View Post
With those gaps as I mentioned previously.......I would fill those with thermal paste using a pea size dot then a piece of plastic to just fill the gaps in and maybe just a smear over the rest of the surface, then drop two rice grain sized lines on the CPU and mount. Or you can add just a bit more of the paste on the cooler side again create a thin layer over the cooler plate end mount it on a clean CPU.
Thanks for your input! One question I have. If I smear a pea sized drop of thermal paste over the CPU cooler, do you think adding two more lines on the CPU plate is necessary? I mean wouldn't that be more paste than is needed? The reason I ask is because from what I have read so far, it seems that the less paste you use the better. Please forgive the ignorance of a first timer, but I really want to get it right the first time, so I don't have to go through the process again.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
05 Jan 2013   #36
Britton30
Microsoft MVP

Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
 
 

Use a coffee filter to wipe it off from the cooler plate, it will leave enough in the spaces, wipe it 90 degrees to the spaces. I use only one single rice grain glop on mine, no chance of creating an air bubble when you clamp the cooler on.
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05 Jan 2013   #37
Bungee18

Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
 
 

I do not have a lot of experience, but have been experimenting a lot during the past two or three months.
I tried filling the gaps between the heat pipes and the plate and then a pea sized drop of thermal paste on the CPU. Cooked it for like twenty ours. Then did the same but without filling the gaps and just the pea sized drop on the CPU. No difference whatsoever in temps, both idle and full load. Based on my personal experience, just a waste of thermal compound. That's for my cooler and my CPU though.
Whereas I experienced a noticeable difference switching from Arctic Silver MX-5 to IC Diamond 7 Carat. 2.5/3 C idle, 4 C full load.
IC Diamond is harder to apply, you need to warm it up it hot water before applying because it is very dense, but I read that it maintains its properties far longer than Arctic Silver.
You need to let cook for at least 20 hours before you notice any real differences.
Diamond is a non conductive material, so you do not run any risks regarding current circulating between the CPU and the heatsink or if some paste goes beyond the CPU.
IC Diamond 7 Carat costs half of what Arctic Silver MX-5 does, maybe because they do not have a strong brand name yet.
All the reviews I could find where very positive.
Maybe something you can try when you reapply thermal compound in 6 months, or a year.
I hope you find this helpful.
Again, I'm no expert, actuallly this is my first build, but I cannot help it and do a lot of tweaking so I'm kindda learning fast!
Cheers,
J
My System SpecsSystem Spec
05 Jan 2013   #38
LittleJay

Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit SP 1
 
 

Thank you for your input guys! Much appreciated.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
05 Jan 2013   #39
Bungee18

Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by kbrady1979 View Post
Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by Erick Aguilar View Post
Coolermasters Hyper212 would be perfect, it's cheap, and it does what it is supposed to.
I second that! The Hyper 212+ or Hyper 212 Evo is THE best bang for the buck as far as coolers. I normally recommend a basic closed loop water cooling unit but as you don't play games or do any kind of OC'ing, there is no need. Even if you did want to do some OC'ing down the road, the Hyper 212 would be up to that task.

I just looked and Newegg has the Hyper 212+ on sale and has a mail in rebate......I'd snatch one up and put some good thermal paste on it and rock on----> Hyper 212+
Kelly,
Since you mentioned closed loop coolers, maybe you can help me make up my mind.
I'm trying to decide between an Antec H2o 620, an H70 core, an H80 and an H100.
I'm running an 8210 Oc'ed to 4300K and do play some demanding games.
My case comes prepared to install a 240 mm radiator, hence the H100 is an option, but I think it might be overkill and too noisy?
What about the button on the pump to set performance? Do you need to open the case and change all the time or you just set it to medium performance and just let it be?
Any advice would be very much appreciated.
Thanks,
J
My System SpecsSystem Spec
05 Jan 2013   #40
essenbe

Windows 7 Enterprise X64/Windows 10 Enterprise X64/Windows 10 Pro X64/Linux Mint
 
 

I never had a 212, but I had a similar cooler made by Cooler Master. There are a lot of opinions about the direct contact heat pipes, and most everyone has their preferences. On mine, I filled the gaps with paste and used wax paper to wipe it off, just filling in the holes, it's usually very porus between the pipes. Then I filled them again and smoothed it out, tying to level it with the pipes. I rubbed it off the pipes themselves very lightly until I could just begin to see the copper coming through and stopped there. Then tint the CPU. Put a layer of paste on the CPU and take a dry coffee filter and wipe it off. It will fill in the microscopic pores in the CPU but leave none on the surface. When you have it wiped off, you will notice it's a slightly different color. That's what you want. Then put the cooler on. That's what I did and it worked out well for me. You can Google Direct contact heat pipes and applying paste and get a lot f different opinions. Choose the one that suits you best, just understanding the oblect is to have a very thin layer on the cooler base and make good solid contact with the cpu and cooler base. The method I used got me better results than I was expecting, YMMV.
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 New CPU cooler for my PC




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