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15 Feb 2013
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#21 | | Windows 7 Professional 32bit |

Quote: Originally Posted by LeftC 
Quote: Originally Posted by Cancerous ... Of course you MUST install your OS on the ssd, that's half the purpose. Went from my shitty laptop drives to a high-end desktop last week and very much enjoy the 6 second power-to-desktop  Congrads on the new hi-end desktop!
Concerning your laptop drives, have you read about the "drive caddies" made by NewModeUS.com? You can remove your laptop's CD/DVD drive, install a SSD in a caddy and then install the SSD caddy where the CD/DVD drive used to be. Voila! Fast laptop!!
Then use a USB/SATA or eSATA/SATA cable for your CD/DVD drive made by the same company. This way, you can attach your CD/DVD drive when you need it. They also carry pouches and rubber enclosures for your CD/DVD drive. Considering even opening the laptop case voids the warranty, I don't think it's worth it. I'm giving it to my mum anyway, so there's not really any need for it. | My System Specs |
| OS Windows 7 Professional 32bit |
15 Feb 2013
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#22 | | Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1 Philadelphia, PA |

Quote: Originally Posted by Cancerous Considering even opening the laptop case voids the warranty, Not always. If there are stickers sealing the screws, then yes. My HP Ultrabook needs to be opened just to replace the battery or add more memory, and my warranty is still intact. | My System Specs | | OS Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1 CPU Intel Core i7-2600 Motherboard Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3P-B3 Memory 12 GB Patriot Extreme DDR3-1333 Graphics Card Nvidia GTX 470 Monitor(s) Displays Dell UltraSharp 2209WA PSU OCZ ModStream 700W Case CoolerMaster HAF 912 Advanced Cooling CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Plus Hard Drives OCZ Agility3 240 GB, WD5001AALS, WD7501AALS |
15 Feb 2013
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#23 | | Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1 Mt. Crumpit/Whoville |
I had a Dell which afforded the options of changing HDD and optical drive too. | My System Specs | | Computer type PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number Home Built Desktop By DataTech OS Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1 CPU Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU Motherboard ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 Memory 16GB G.Skill Sniper 2133MHz 4x4GB Graphics Card ASUS ENGTX460 DirectCU/2DI/1GD5 GeForce GTX 460 Sound Card Onboard Realtek 5-1 Monitor(s) Displays Samsung P2570HD Screen Resolution 1920x1080 Keyboard Old, beat-up Dell USB From 10 yrs Ago Mouse Gigabyte m6900 wired PSU Corsair HX650W Case Inwin Dragon Rider Cooling Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM Hard Drives Crucial M4 128GB for OS, 750GB Seagate MomentusXT for data, 500GB Seagate Constellation for storage Internet Speed 8-19 Mbs down, 3-4 Mbs up Comcast Cable Antivirus Norton Internet Security Browser IE 9, Opera when needed Other Info 4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power generator with flux capacitor, 1.21 gigawatts. |
15 Feb 2013
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#24 | | |

Quote: Originally Posted by essenbe As far as games, games will load faster if installed on the SSD, but the game play is the same. The only advantage for 99% of games is the time it takes to load them. There is no performance gain by having them installed on the SSD. Actually, there are a few titles that do benefit from running of a SSD. It certainly helped 'smooth' things in GTA IV for example. (Less 'hitchy' overall. It was also originally installed on a RAID 0 HDD)
But yeah, the vast majority it is just load time improvements for games. | My System Specs | | Computer type PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number Custom Computers by SmartEyeball OS 8 Pro x64 CPU i7 3770K 4.6GHz Motherboard ASUS P8Z77 WS Memory 16GB G.Skill Trident X 2400mhz Graphics Card 3x Gigabyte GTX 670 OC WindForce *TRI SLI* Sound Card ALC898 / 5.1 receiver/ ATH-AD900 Headphones Monitor(s) Displays x3 Dell U2410 / 58" Samsung / "40 Sony Screen Resolution 5760*1200/ 1920*1200 / 1920*1080 Keyboard Topre Realforce // Ducky Shine MX Black // Filco Ninja TKL Mouse Razer Imperator + Thermaltake Theron PSU Corsair AX1200W Case Thermaltake Level 10 GT Snow Edition Cooling Noctua NH-D14 Hard Drives 2x Intel 520 240GB (RAID 0) * 2x WD Caviar Blacks 2TB (RAID 0) * 2TB WD Caviar Black Antivirus MSE Browser IE, FF Other Info GT Extreme V2 Sim Racing Cockpit + 40" LCD and K/B Mouse stand ▼
Fanatec CSR Elite Wheel + Clubsport Pedals + CSR shifter/7GS ▼
Buttkicker v2 Seat Rumbler with Dedicated 5.1 and Sub Woofer attached to frame ▼
=
Bloody Big Grin |
15 Feb 2013
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#25 | | Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit Michigan |

Quote: Originally Posted by linnemeyerhere With a 60 -90 gb ssd then only OS and essential software and limited if any games. With a 128 gb ssd then options grow exponentially, with a 256 gb or larger then the world is you oyster and I would say load all programs that will fit to within a maximum of 10-15% reserve if you can as that's a lot of software. As always all data to a spinner and as always routinely image the ssd to another drive for a back up. 
Quote: Originally Posted by linnemeyerhere If anyone has opened Photoshop Elements or a heavier version of Photoshop with a spinner and then an SSD....instant convert. I use a contact database and it's huge opening with a spinner painful.....ssd and sip of coffee and set the mug down and it's open. Life is just so much better with spinners holding data and a great ssd opening things up. 
Quote: Originally Posted by smarteyeball
Actually, there are a few titles that do benefit from running of a SSD. It certainly helped 'smooth' things in GTA IV for example. (Less 'hitchy' overall. It was also originally installed on a RAID 0 HDD)
But yeah, the vast majority it is just load time improvements for games. Can't improve upon that advice linnemeyerhere. Well stated.
I'd agree smarteyeball with the less "hitchy" idea. Originally I had Dirt 3 installed to a WD Black Caviar but moved it to the SSD and there are certain places in the game where things appear smoother. Nothing I can test per se now, but I've not noticed these glitches since installing the game to the SSD.
Last edited by Wordsworth; 15 Feb 2013 at 04:21 PM..
| My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Homebuilt OS Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit CPU Core i7 920 Motherboard Asus P6T Memory Corsair XMS 12GB Graphics Card Asus EAH5850 Sound Card Asus Xonar D1 Monitor(s) Displays HP 2709m Screen Resolution 1920x1080 Keyboard Microsoft Natural Ergo 4000 Mouse Microsoft Wireless Optical 1000 PSU Thermaltake TR2 RX 850 Case Lian Li PC-B70 Cooling CPU-Noctua NH D14, GPU-Stock, Case-Noctua 2x140, 2x120 Hard Drives Intel X25 120GB SSD; Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB (1), Green 1TB (2), Green 2TB (1) Internet Speed Cable Other Info HP bd 340,
HP bd 240,
Klipsch Promedia 5.1 THX |
15 Feb 2013
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#26 | | Windows 7 Ultimate (x64) Service Pack 1 (build 7601) |

Quote: Originally Posted by Cancerous 
Quote: Originally Posted by LeftC 
Quote: Originally Posted by Cancerous ... Of course you MUST install your OS on the ssd, that's half the purpose. Went from my shitty laptop drives to a high-end desktop last week and very much enjoy the 6 second power-to-desktop  Congrads on the new hi-end desktop!
Concerning your laptop drives, have you read about the "drive caddies" made by NewModeUS.com? You can remove your laptop's CD/DVD drive, install a SSD in a caddy and then install the SSD caddy where the CD/DVD drive used to be. Voila! Fast laptop!!
Then use a USB/SATA or eSATA/SATA cable for your CD/DVD drive made by the same company. This way, you can attach your CD/DVD drive when you need it. They also carry pouches and rubber enclosures for your CD/DVD drive. Considering even opening the laptop case voids the warranty, I don't think it's worth it. I'm giving it to my mum anyway, so there's not really any need for it. I installed a 512GB Samsung 840 Pro where my CD/DVD drive was using the caddy for my Dell 17" Inspiron laptop. There is one screw on the backside of the laptop that held my CD/DVD drive in. I removed that screw and just pulled the CD/DVD drive out. I put my SSD in the caddy and put it in where the other drive was. Then I used the same screw to hold it back in. I can go back to stock with this setup in just a few minutes. So, if a warranty problem surfaces, I can easily return to stock and they won't know the difference. I had to remove a part from the CD/DVD drive. There is a "L" shaped bracket on the back of the CD/DVD drive that I had to take off and transfer it to the caddy. There were 2 screws that held it on. So, there were 3 screws in total that I used for this conversion. Extremely easy conversion!
Check out the following installation guide, The second example is somewhat similar to what I had to do with my laptop: How to replace HDD with SSD, then use the HDD as a 2nd drive : NewmodeUS, Hard Drive Caddys for Notebooks
Video: Replace a laptop's CD/DVD optical drive with a Hard Drive - YouTube
This is the exact $45 caddy kit that I used: 2nd HDD /SSD Caddy, DELL Inspiron 17R (N7010, N7110, 7220, 7720) [OBHD-SATA12-SATA-BU] - $44.75 : NewmodeUS, Hard Drive Caddys for Notebooks
Last edited by LeftC; 15 Feb 2013 at 08:37 PM..
Reason: added video
| My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Dell 17R N7110 Inspiron laptop OS Windows 7 Ultimate (x64) Service Pack 1 (build 7601) CPU Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-2450M CPU @ 2.50GHz Motherboard Dell Inc. 0YH79Y A00 Memory 8 GB Graphics Card Intel HD Graphics 3000 with up to 1.6GB dynamic video memory Sound Card SRS Premium Sound - (1) Realtek High Definition Audio Monitor(s) Displays 17.3" diagonal HD+ TrueLife LED display Screen Resolution 1600x900 resolution Keyboard stock Mouse stock PSU stock Case stock Cooling stock Hard Drives 1 TB HD #ST1000LM024 HN-M101MBB,
512 GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD Internet Speed WiFi Other Info Printer: HP Photosmart C3180 All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:01 AM. | |