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Windows 7: Gigabyte 550 ti gpu no video after install

27 Jun 2013   #31
Faladu

Windows 7 Ultimate Retail Box (64-bit installed) + Service Pack 1
 
 

It's also circa 2007, so for 2013, it's obsolete for a gaming rig.

Like others have said, if this is your path, at the very least, you have to swap out the power supply, go big, I have a feeling you will be reusing it soon on a better setup.

Something like this, perhaps:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139020

Don't expect store bought PC's to have quality power supplies, it's rare, adds too much to their bottom line when making tens of thousands of them.

Also, watch out for the chipset (todays CPUs usually have the Northbridge built into the CPU) so refers generally now to the Southbridge which is what communicates to all the slower system components, you don't want to skimp on/overlook this part of the motherboard. [google it if you don't believe it]


My System SpecsSystem Spec
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27 Jun 2013   #32
fspsyco

windows 7 home premium 64 bit
 
 

damn. . .
My System SpecsSystem Spec
27 Jun 2013   #33
fspsyco

windows 7 home premium 64 bit
 
 

actually that is in my price range because i am going to go and get a 100$ here soon so i should be able to do that but i just need something that matchest the current power source set up so i dont have any further issues
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27 Jun 2013   #34
TwoCables

 

But you still need to get the E7500 to work with this computer, right? For that, we need to find out if it's even compatible with this motherboard. It may become compatible after a BIOS update, but perhaps the only way to know is by calling HP. However, this thread scares me and it reminds me of why I prefer building my own:

BIOS upgrade gone bad - HP a6244n - HP Support Forum - 171129

Look at the last reply by the Thread Starter:

Quote:
UPDATE!!!!!!

HP tech support told me that to fix the problem I must purchase a new MB for $249

Guess they should not post BIOS updates on their site if they fail like this

$250 for a motherboard? Seriously? I could get a motherboard that's just as crappy as the one in that computer for around $40-50 to build my own crappy computer: Newegg.com - Computer Hardware, Motherboards, Intel Motherboards, $25 - $50

Anyway, there are much better PSUs to be had than the TX650 and they're modular. A modular PSU means that the cables are not all attached which means you attach only the ones you need (they just plug right in) which means the PSU is easier to install and you have less cable clutter.

Also, a 650W PSU is major overkill unless you want to have like two GTX 680s in 2-way SLi or something similar to that. A single-card setup like yours will never need anything 'bigger' than a 400-450W PSU. At the price of the TX650, here are two PSUs to consider which are modular and are far better (internally, they're better):

The 450W Rosewill CAPSTONE Modular Cable Version Series for $69.99 shipped at Amazon.com

The 450W SeaSonic G Series for $74.99 shipped at Amazon.com

Or if you thinik you will have two powerful video cards in the future, then you can order today and get the 650W SeaSonic G Series for $74.99 shipped with the promo code 72HRSL093 (ends today), and then there's a $15 Mail-In Rebate (which ends today as well): SeaSonic SSR-650RM 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply - Newegg.com

All 3 of these are internally superior to the TX650.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
27 Jun 2013   #35
fspsyco

windows 7 home premium 64 bit
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
But you still need to get the E7500 to work with this computer, right? For that, we need to find out if it's even compatible with this motherboard. It may become compatible after a BIOS update, but perhaps the only way to know is by calling HP. However, this thread scares me and it reminds me of why I prefer building my own:

BIOS upgrade gone bad - HP a6244n - HP Support Forum - 171129
so your saying it is most likely that a bios update wont help just f#$% up my system
My System SpecsSystem Spec
27 Jun 2013   #36
TwoCables

 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by fspsyco View Post
Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
But you still need to get the E7500 to work with this computer, right? For that, we need to find out if it's even compatible with this motherboard. It may become compatible after a BIOS update, but perhaps the only way to know is by calling HP. However, this thread scares me and it reminds me of why I prefer building my own:

BIOS upgrade gone bad - HP a6244n - HP Support Forum - 171129
so your saying it is most likely that a bios update wont help just f#$% up my system
No, I'm saying that if it fails for you like it did for him, then HP will probably tell you that the only fix is getting another motherboard (for $250, apparently).

So, before attempting a BIOS update (if you find out how to do it for your computer), I would call HP to see if the E7500 is (or could be) compatible with your computer. If they recommend a BIOS update (if they guarantee that a BIOS update would make it become compatible), then perhaps you can ask them to help you update it over the phone. I figure that if they fail at it, then maybe you can hold them responsible so that you don't have to have them recommend that you spend $250 just to get a replacement motherboard.
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27 Jun 2013   #37
Faladu

Windows 7 Ultimate Retail Box (64-bit installed) + Service Pack 1
 
 

Normally there is a CPU compatibility list for a motherboard, but this is their cheapo OEM garbage board not good enough to even sell to us.

I'd call ASUS over HP, since they made the board.

2, that was a fast example and I'd still go higher watts for a few more bucks regardless, but hey I have a Corsair TX850 and it's still fine after nearly 3 years, and my video card alone draws 200W, I don't want to cut it CLOSE AT ALL, true, I am not a typical user though.

BIOS updates don't mess up a system, unless they are for the wrong board or power failure during the update procedure!
My System SpecsSystem Spec
27 Jun 2013   #38
TwoCables

 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by Faladu View Post
Normally there is a CPU compatibility list for a motherboard, but this is their cheapo OEM garbage board not good enough to even sell to us.

I'd call ASUS over HP, since they made the board.

2, that was a fast example and I'd still go higher watts for a few more bucks regardless, but hey I have a Corsair TX850 and it's still fine after nearly 3 years, and my video card alone draws 200W, I don't want to cut it CLOSE AT ALL, true, I am not a typical user though.

BIOS updates don't mess up a system, unless they are for the wrong board or power failure during the update procedure!
PSUs like the ones we are talking about are rated for their continuous capacity, and they're able to easily deliver their continuous capacity at internal PSU temperatures up to 50C. If the PSU's internal temperature exceeds 50C (which is very unlikely), then its continuous capacity goes down (but only while the temp is above 50C). So you could have been pulling 750-800W from your PSU while gaming these past 3 years and it would STILL be going strong. How? Because it's an enthusiast-class PSU that has been designed to easily deliver 850W 24/7 if it's ever needed.

Unfortunately, your average efficiency with your TX850 is likely below the Bronze level and it might even be below 80% because of the tiny power draw on it. That's why I make as big of a deal as I do about getting a PSU that is a better fit instead of just getting overkill "just to be safe". So yeah, this means your PSU is pulling more power from the wall than you would see if you had a good quality-made 450W PSU powering your system.

With PSUs like these, there is absolutely no benefit whatsoever of leaving like 200W or more of headroom (it seems almost everyone on here is recommending leaving 200W or more of headroom). Here's a post written by a true PSU expert about how good these kind of PSUs really are:

A message to the community on enthusiast power supplies

Now, let's look at the power draw of the GTX 550 Ti:

GeForce GTX 550 Ti review MSI Cyclone II OC - Power consumption

With one GTX 550 Ti under load in their power-hungry system (take note of what's in their system!), their PSU pulled 289W from the wall outlet. Their CPU was idling, so I have to add 65W for the E4500 or the E7500. So with the 550 Ti and the E7500 (or E4500) both under full load, the PSU would then be pulling 354W from the wall outlet. This means that if the PSU is 90% efficient, then the computer is pulling 318W from the PSU. The gaming power draw will be even lower at about 200-275W, maybe as much as 300W for some games. Then you have to remember that these calculations are based on their power-hungry system, so we can easily knock off another 25-50W.

If he were to use a CPU that can pull up to 125W while under full load (like yours), then the final calculation would be 372W absolute max in extreme situations (unrealistic situations), and about 275 -350W while gaming. Again though, knock off about 25-50W because these calculations are based on Guru3D's power-hungry system. So really, it would be about 225-300W at the most while gaming with a more powerful CPU like yours.

The 450W PSUs I recommended are able to easily deliver 450W 24/7 up to an internal PSU temperature of 50C. Therefore, these PSUs would have absolutely no problems with that and the efficiency would be better than it would be if a 'bigger' PSU were used.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
27 Jun 2013   #39
Faladu

Windows 7 Ultimate Retail Box (64-bit installed) + Service Pack 1
 
 

I beg to differ, upgrade headroom I don't mind having unused extra insurance, I paid premium for it.

I will store away your advice for the future, thank you.

I usually consult an online power calculator site if I am really going to nitpick.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
27 Jun 2013   #40
TwoCables

 

I kept updating my last post after you posted because I didn't know that you posted. I'm done updating and I apologize for causing you to miss some things.

Anyway, those calculators are usually inaccurate, especially if they're not used correctly. So I never recommend using them. Ever.

If you want to talk about future upgrades, then let's ask fspsyco what his future upgrades might be - but we still have to consider his current budget for a PSU. Regardless, given the fact that he bought the GTX 550 Ti and the E7500, I doubt he'd ever have any upgrades that would require a PSU any 'bigger' than 400-450W (for good quality-made PSUs). The only way you'd need a PSU any bigger than that is if you went with two decent video cards. If he were to have about two $400-$500 video cards, then he'd need a good 650W PSU, partly because of the connectors required (in order to avoid using Molex to PCI-E adapters). Of course, he's not overclocking anything, so a good quality-made 650W would still be more than enough for two $400-$500 video cards.

Obviously, he can get whatever he wants; it's his money. If he wants to spend it on a PSU that has more power than he'll ever need, then fine. However, there's no benefit in doing so because we're not dealing with low-quality PSUs here. If he were to buy a low-quality PSU, then yes he should definitely get one that's just a little 'bigger' than he needs because those kind of PSUs don't last very long as it is and almost all of them are rated by their peak capacity.

All I'm trying to do is provide the facts so that he can make a fully-informed decision. Guesswork is useless, especially when it comes to PSUs. Also, the more overkill a PSU is, the lower its efficiency will be. If you go to overkill (like with your system), then you might never even see the advertised efficiency.

More can be said, but this is already a large amount of reading.
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 Gigabyte 550 ti gpu no video after install




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