CPU overheating problem

I have just had my Ivy Bridge crash and am trying to reinstall Windows on a new drive but when I start the machine up - it has almost completed the install the BIOS lets go with warning beeps and a message that the CPU is over temp.

In the BIOS it is set to the auto settings for any of the CPU and fans stuff and I am not really overly confident in what I should be setting. The CPU an i5 3570K is hitting 81C whenever I start the machine up and refuses to budge past the BIOS beeps.

It is a reasonably new build about seven months so I don't think it is the thermal and the Intel LC cooler block feels almost cold to the touch as does the rad.

Any ideas appreciated as this is just another set back in a horror two days.

I would re do the cooler seating just to be sure.

Dude said:

I would re do the cooler seating just to be sure.

Yes I think I might as it came out of the blue and I have been running temps of 45C just lately when I first fitted the LC it was down around the 28C mark.

Also I might use the Noctua NT-H1 this time - Arctic Silver first install. Odd though it only happened intermittently during the crash and reinstall. At the moment Speccy is telling me it is 27C???? and I have been doing some heavy installing etc

Don't know KB I didn't notice any gurgling sounds though before I installed it it did seem to have a fair bit of "slop" in it like it doesn't have to full but I would have thought that it wouldn't have sounded half empty either.

Problem is mate proving it is faulty eh?

Actually KB I have been thinking about what you said re the LC cooler and it occurred to me how much coolant do these things hold and when they made mine did they put enough in it?

One way I might try to find out is to do what my Dad and I used to do when I was in plumbing, and that is to chill the until the (ie copper) storage tank and run the hand down the tank from the top and the metal warms and when you hit the fluid the level is revealed by the amount of time it takes for your hand to warm that spot - usually not at all. But how the air that I suspect is in the rad got down into the pump is a mystery but you certainly got me thinking about it.

Plus I did notice that the rad when I bought it had a very roughly made core unlike those nice even I ones you see in cars and air cons. The other thing that has always puzzled me is why do they paint the core black?? As a dark colour you would think it would attract heat rather than reflect it - odd don't you think??

Well I marked this as solved but it has come back to haunt me. My temps flew to 96-101C this afternoon and the machine kept shutting down.

I took out the cooler / pump plate and redone the compound with Noctua NT-H1 and held the pump head down low and ran it briefly to purge any trapped air and then replaced it. Now it was making a purring noise like a cat for a while but then settled to a rhythmical ticking sound for want of a better term. The temp came down to 26C at room air temp 12C on running some scans and mail etc
So that is ok for now but I do think the config of this device is wrong. I mean by the way that the tubes are joined to the tank. Now as you know in a car the tanks are upper and bottom and the hot coolant is "syphoned" into the top tank assisted by the impeller. Now by a natural process of cooling the fluid then sinks to the bottom tank to return to the heat source for it to happen all over again.
Now in my RTS2011LC the tubes are joined into the same tank which doesn't make sense to me - how does it or would it go through the main core?? In the pic I got off a review it shows the tubes at the top which again does not make sense in that any air is liable to be drawn down into the pump as I know that my rad is not that full.
My own set up has the tubes at the bottom - opposite to the pic so my reasoning being that they would always be immersed in coolant. and that the incoming heated fluid will tend to rise to the top and sink therefore cooling it.
Now ideally I would have thought that the output from the cooler pump would go to a top mounted connection on the rad and the return tube at the bottom of the rad much as in a cars system. Or a system whereby it has to flow the length of the core. But looking around I cannot see any systems that will come even close to what I think is ideal.
If I replace this unit because I think it is going south if the sounds are anything to go by what LC system would anyone suggest as a good reliable one please.

Oh and I have another problem in that I wrecked the back fixing plate by foolishly using a screwdriver to do up the top holding plate for the pump and the small "nuts" spin around in the flimsy plastic cross piece. Any suggestion s for getting this piece out now as I can only just remove the cooler pump assembly I cannot remove the holding plate

Yep Kelly I will do tomorrow as away from home at the moment. I thin probably if worst came to the worst I shall have to wreck the existing kit and get a new one.

I am still concerned though re the orientation of the rad I would rather keep the tubes at the bottom cos I think I mentioned before that when I was putting it in it sounded like it was not really that full and would be exposed to any air in the top.

I know the specs tell you the weight of the fluid but not the tank / rad weight all up so there is not way of checking that by weighing the thing. I have a push / pull on mine that is the Intel on the inner and a Coolermaster pulling behind so it isn't for the lack of ventilation.

Yep you are probably right I am reading too much into the sound as you do have to get close to hear it though that purring sound you could hear from ten feet away! I am rather hoping it was trapped air and not an impeller spinner coming adrift.

I should have suspected things were not as should be a while back now cos the temps have been hovering around 45C - not hot really but were higher than when I first built and now I have refitted the system compound.