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#11
Yes Paul and linne I was on my way out mates and didn't have the time and yep it has some sort of clear button I think somewhere.
Being on graveyard shift isn't helpful
Yep looking at it now and it's on the IO panel next to the esata ports if those are the red ones ! Small button with a couple of arrows and BIOS on it !
lol, CMOS can usually be cleared by a jumper (when OC testing I usually have a reset switch from an old case connected to it). Modern and high end boards often feature a switch and in the absence of these; battery removal for around 20mins is recommended.
The beep given off at power up does not just indicate the RAM being good, but that the system has completed the POST (power on self test), which includes the RAM, CPU, BIOS, DMA, and BUS(s).
No Single Beep (pass) and no resultant beep code (fail) means the test is not completing.
Agree with previous posts indicating clear CMOS per your manual.
Ah well have read the manual for what it is worth reset the CMOS by the battery "method" and RTM jumper and tried three different brands of RAM sticks, and in different slots .
The machine is starting up and I can hear the optical click and spin and the HDD light flicks on and off all fans are running.
The CPU light blinks a few times then stops the RAM light stays on until I reset it that stops the machine and starts it up again but again the RAM stays on.
I can feel the top of the cooler plate but the CPU does not feel even warm and I am guessing it is only the heat from my finger at that.
I still get no output even from the board graphics (there is no graphics error LED on) so I would not know what is going on via error messages - it will not go into BIOS that I know. But the most concerning thing to me is there is no POST beep.
I have followed everyone's advice and followed the manual which really is very basic and has no troubleshooting section and I am now left wondering if the mobo is dead in the water.
So am at a loss as what to try next.
PS I have just heard back from the supplier - they are waiting on a replacement Intel LC unit the other one was in fact not functioning.
Just had a thought.
It could be the defective cooler hooked to the motherboard sending a signal to the system letting it know their is no cooling and it just shuts down.
I really wish I could help you, I had the Ram light staying on, but that was due to 1 stick of my ram going bad and you have already tried different ram and different combinations.
I fear it might be a lot worse, but I am surprised if the motherboard or cpu got fried as of the safeguards like Kelly mentioned.
Thanks Paul that is reassuring. I have messaged the supplier with the problem too in case the failure of the cooler they are replacing has damaged the board or CPU and I will hear back when I get up today I guess as it is now 4am.
Am not real sure what to do next as like you say I have tried the RAM out in different configs, reset the CMOS and without some specialized equipment I don't know what to test out.
It is bugging me about the lack of that loud beep I used to get and no graphics as I did think I would have something flash up if only for a moment or two.