Yeah I've tried this, even manually, it didn't seem to fix it. I tried the command to show hidden devices, and there was a logitech mouse on there, as well as about 7 or 8 ones that aren't currently in use, all hid-compliant mice. http://gyazo.com/b7c965e58b19b9d4125df8795af56889 I already removed the logitech one, should I remove these others?
Yes. You should uninstall all the grayed ones.
If it were me I would uninstall everything, even the current non-grey one, restart, and let Windows install a fresh new generic mouse driver. Then test on that for a day or two. (Wired mouse only!)
I personally always use wired devices, I don't see much point to wireless mice/kb's when its not like your going to be moving them really.
When you sit 10 feet away from you computer and monitor a blutoot (wireless) mouse and keyboard comes in very handy.
It's also nice to keep you computer desk free of wires running all over.
Now if only I could also figure out how every Mouse I hook up seems to randomly double click on a single click.
Yeah that was the first thing I did, the settings haven't changed at all from what I can tell. Its just a minor annoyence really. Though sometimes it does annoying things like causes me to open 2 browsers insted of one when I click firefox in the quick launch, or randomly stop dragging when I click and drag.
What happens if you move the slider way down to it's slowest setting? Anything?
If not you could have a loose connection inside the mouse.
I have the Logitech EX-100 wireless mouse and keyboard. The mouse developed the double click syndrome about a month ago. I researched it and other than running another program to take the switch bounce out, there's not a lot that will fix it. The switch is worn out. I did take mine apart and cleaned the inside as already suggested but the switch bounce returned after a short time. I think it was just moving the printed circuit board a little that helped. Although the cleaning did improve the wheel motion. There's a setting for click speed on the upper end but none on the low end or minimum that would cure the switch bounce. MS should have added that but it's really the mouse OEM's fault. Switch bounce circuitry would have added 10 cents to the cost of the mouse.
I have noticed that if I press the button rather than tap it, it works fine.
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