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Windows 7: PC fell down + one PSU question

24 Oct 2014   #11
Digerati

Windows 7 Profession 64-bit
 
 

Your HWMonitor temps are fine. That 65C makes me a bit uncomfortable, but as seen here, is still safely within limits. If your maximum temps don't sit at 65C longer than a few seconds at a time and then quickly drop below 60C, then I would not be too worried. But if your temps frequently rise above 60C and sit there, then you need to look at your case cooling. Remember, it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate supply of cool air flowing through the case. So make sure the interior, vents, fans, and heatsinks are cleaned of heat-trapping dust, and consider adding another case fan, or replacing current case fans with larger capacity fans.

GPU temps typically run considerably higher than CPU temps. No worries there.

Quote:
Edit 2: Also, I've always noticed that TMPIN2 has a buggy temp readings. It's been like that for the past 2 years.
Those little temperature sensors are very low tech devices and probably cost a couple pennies at most - for 10 of them! So they probably are not very accurate regardless. The best you can hope is they are consistently wrong by the same amount. Also, and sadly, many HW monitoring programs have a hard time correctly matching sensor to label, or they fail to see there is no sensor (they are not mandatory) for that label and toss up some off-the-charts temps. You can verify your temps with Speccy (from the makers of CCleaner), which is good at matching sensors to labels, but it does not have a system tray applet. I use I use and recommend CoreTemp for that.


My System SpecsSystem Spec
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24 Oct 2014   #12
Rain08

Windows 7 Professional 64-bit (6.1, Build 7601)
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by Itaregid View Post
Your HWMonitor temps are fine. That 65C makes me a bit uncomfortable, but as seen here, is still safely within limits. If your maximum temps don't sit at 65C longer than a few seconds at a time and then quickly drop below 60C, then I would not be too worried. But if your temps frequently rise above 60C and sit there, then you need to look at your case cooling. Remember, it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate supply of cool air flowing through the case. So make sure the interior, vents, fans, and heatsinks are cleaned of heat-trapping dust, and consider adding another case fan, or replacing current case fans with larger capacity fans.

GPU temps typically run considerably higher than CPU temps. No worries there.

Quote:
Edit 2: Also, I've always noticed that TMPIN2 has a buggy temp readings. It's been like that for the past 2 years.
Those little temperature sensors are very low tech devices and probably cost a couple pennies at most - for 10 of them! So they probably are not very accurate regardless. The best you can hope is they are consistently wrong by the same amount. Also, and sadly, many HW monitoring programs have a hard time correctly matching sensor to label, or they fail to see there is no sensor (they are not mandatory) for that label and toss up some off-the-charts temps. You can verify your temps with Speccy (from the makers of CCleaner), which is good at matching sensors to labels, but it does not have a system tray applet. I use I use and recommend CoreTemp for that.
Here are the temps after playing CS:S for an hour and earlier, I did some browsing and YouTubing and before doing these, I have played BF2 (with 63 bots).

The temps when browsing is usually at 37C~58C (depends on what I'm doing).

Edit: The PC is running continuously since earlier's post.

Edit 2: Time to make some tea with that MoBo temperature.


Attached Thumbnails
PC fell down + one PSU question-temps-2.jpg  
My System SpecsSystem Spec
24 Oct 2014   #13
Digerati

Windows 7 Profession 64-bit
 
 

Yeah, obviously the motherboard sensor (or Speccy) are not seeing eye-to-eye.

Your 63C are a bit high. If me, I would probably still replace the TIM on the CPU. That is NOT something I normally or lightly recommend because TIM does not normally need replacing as it does not wear-out, go bad, or other wise become less effective - IF left undisturbed. It can, and does easily last 10, 15 years or longer. But since your computer bounced off the floor, the cured bond might have been cracked, letting some insulating air in between the mating surfaces.

If you currently are running with the OEM TIM pad, using a quality after-market TIM may even give you a few degrees improvement.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
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 PC fell down + one PSU question




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