| Windows 7: First installation of Windows 7 x64 restarts on "Starting Windows" |
01 Jun 2012
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#1 | | |
First installation of Windows 7 x64 restarts on "Starting Windows" Recently completed a PC build. When I inserted and tried to install Windows 7 off the disc, I was only able to get up to the "Starting Windows" screen until my computer restarted. It continued doing this.
I checked my RAM and it is working perfectly. I triple checked all of the wiring. I'm not really sure what else to do.
My specs are:
CPU: Intel Core i3-2120 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor
Motherboard: Biostar TZ77B ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: PNY XLR8 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 1GB Video Card
Case: Cooler Master Elite 430 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: OCZ 600W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Optical Drive: Sony DDU1681S-0B DVD/CD Drive | My System Specs |
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01 Jun 2012
|
#2 | | Windows 7 SP1, Home Premium, 64-bit |
Have you tried it with just a single stick of RAM?
Are all of these components new?
Is your installation disc burned, retail, OEM, borrowed, or ???
How did you check the RAM? | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one OS Windows 7 SP1, Home Premium, 64-bit CPU Intel Sandy Bridge i5-2500, not overclocked Motherboard Gigabyte H67A-UD3H-B3, full ATX Memory 4 GB Crucial DDR3-1333 Graphics Card none; graphics are integrated on CPU Sound Card onboard: Realtek ALC892; external: USB Behringer UF0-202 Monitor(s) Displays NEC 90GX2-BK 19" LCD Screen Resolution 800 x 640 Keyboard Leopold Tenkeyless with Cherry Blue switches, USB Mouse Logitech or Microsoft optical wired; either USB or PS 2 PSU Seasonic SS-560KM, modular Case Antec Solo II Cooling CPU: Scythe Big Shuriken; Case: Scythe Slipstream 800 & 500 Hard Drives System: Intel 320 Series SSD, 80 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD15EADS-00P8B0, 1.5TB Other Info Power consumption of this system, including monitor: 68 watts at idle; 144 watts at full load |
01 Jun 2012
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#3 | | |

Quote: Originally Posted by ignatzatsonic Have you tried it with just a single stick of RAM?
Are all of these components new?
Is your installation disc burned, retail, OEM, borrowed, or ???
How did you check the RAM? Yes, tried it with a single stick of RAM and alternated the single sticks.
All the components are brand new. Purchased today.
It's a retail installation disk.
I checked the RAM using MEMTEST86+. | My System Specs | | |
01 Jun 2012
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#4 | | Win7 x 6 PC's California, Florida, Boston |
Where did you get Windows 7? Did you burn the disk yourself?
Unplug all other HD's and peripherals. | My System Specs | | |
01 Jun 2012
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#5 | | |

Quote: Originally Posted by gregrocker Where did you get Windows 7? Did you burn the disk yourself?
Unplug all other HD's and peripherals. I bought it at Newegg. I didn't burn it myself. Might it be possible that there's something wrong with my copy?
I gave that a try and it did the same. | My System Specs | | |
01 Jun 2012
|
#6 | | Windows 7 SP1, Home Premium, 64-bit |
Strip it down and then add components back, one at a time, to try and isolate the offending component.
The test (power off, power cord unplugged):
• Disconnect everything externally connected except the mouse and keyboard (printers, USB devices). If you are not using a wired mouse and keyboard see if you can borrow one.
• Disconnect the power and data cables from all the drives inside the computer (Hard drives, DVD/CD drives).
• Remove all the cards installed in the PCI slots including the video card. (be careful handling them and place them on a non conductive surface while testing).
• Remove all the RAM sticks (same rules as above).
Now connect the power cord and turn the PC on.
• The motherboard should start beeping. You should get a beep code that tells you there is no memory. This is good, it means the processor is functioning and the motherboard is good so far.
• Now add one stick of memory in Slot A1 and power on. More beeping: "no video card" beep code. This is good.
• Then add the video card and connect it to the monitor. You should get no beeping and you should see the BIOS screens, ending with the message that there is no boot device.
If you get no video then switch the one memory stick installed for another one and test.
Continue adding components one at a time.
If at any point the PC fails the the last component added was the problem one.
If you removed everything and there is only the Motherboard (with integrated video), processor, and power supply to contend with and it does not POST or show anything on the screen, then the problem is one of those three.
If you have tested by using another power supply then you are down to two. CPUs rarely fail, so motherboard is the most likely guess.
Try performing a CLRTC or Clear CMOS as a last ditch effort, and check the 3v battery. Both long shots, but what do you have to lose at this point. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one OS Windows 7 SP1, Home Premium, 64-bit CPU Intel Sandy Bridge i5-2500, not overclocked Motherboard Gigabyte H67A-UD3H-B3, full ATX Memory 4 GB Crucial DDR3-1333 Graphics Card none; graphics are integrated on CPU Sound Card onboard: Realtek ALC892; external: USB Behringer UF0-202 Monitor(s) Displays NEC 90GX2-BK 19" LCD Screen Resolution 800 x 640 Keyboard Leopold Tenkeyless with Cherry Blue switches, USB Mouse Logitech or Microsoft optical wired; either USB or PS 2 PSU Seasonic SS-560KM, modular Case Antec Solo II Cooling CPU: Scythe Big Shuriken; Case: Scythe Slipstream 800 & 500 Hard Drives System: Intel 320 Series SSD, 80 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD15EADS-00P8B0, 1.5TB Other Info Power consumption of this system, including monitor: 68 watts at idle; 144 watts at full load |
01 Jun 2012
|
#7 | | |

Quote: Originally Posted by ignatzatsonic Strip it down and then add components back, one at a time, to try and isolate the offending component.
The test (power off, power cord unplugged):
• Disconnect everything externally connected except the mouse and keyboard (printers, USB devices). If you are not using a wired mouse and keyboard see if you can borrow one.
• Disconnect the power and data cables from all the drives inside the computer (Hard drives, DVD/CD drives).
• Remove all the cards installed in the PCI slots including the video card. (be careful handling them and place them on a non conductive surface while testing).
• Remove all the RAM sticks (same rules as above).
Now connect the power cord and turn the PC on.
• The motherboard should start beeping. You should get a beep code that tells you there is no memory. This is good, it means the processor is functioning and the motherboard is good so far.
• Now add one stick of memory in Slot A1 and power on. More beeping: "no video card" beep code. This is good.
• Then add the video card and connect it to the monitor. You should get no beeping and you should see the BIOS screens, ending with the message that there is no boot device.
If you get no video then switch the one memory stick installed for another one and test.
Continue adding components one at a time.
If at any point the PC fails the the last component added was the problem one.
If you removed everything and there is only the Motherboard (with integrated video), processor, and power supply to contend with and it does not POST or show anything on the screen, then the problem is one of those three.
If you have tested by using another power supply then you are down to two. CPUs rarely fail, so motherboard is the most likely guess.
Try performing a CLRTC or Clear CMOS as a last ditch effort, and check the 3v battery. Both long shots, but what do you have to lose at this point. The RAM checked through, I didn't get a problem. But after I turned it on with the RAM inside, I didn't get an error message for the missing video card. I went through with the rest and it appeared to be normal. I'm going to try the CLRTC/Clear CMOS.
If none of these work, should I have my motherboard exchanged? | My System Specs | | |
01 Jun 2012
|
#8 | | |

Quote: Originally Posted by Holahihello 
Quote: Originally Posted by ignatzatsonic Strip it down and then add components back, one at a time, to try and isolate the offending component.
The test (power off, power cord unplugged):
• Disconnect everything externally connected except the mouse and keyboard (printers, USB devices). If you are not using a wired mouse and keyboard see if you can borrow one.
• Disconnect the power and data cables from all the drives inside the computer (Hard drives, DVD/CD drives).
• Remove all the cards installed in the PCI slots including the video card. (be careful handling them and place them on a non conductive surface while testing).
• Remove all the RAM sticks (same rules as above).
Now connect the power cord and turn the PC on.
• The motherboard should start beeping. You should get a beep code that tells you there is no memory. This is good, it means the processor is functioning and the motherboard is good so far.
• Now add one stick of memory in Slot A1 and power on. More beeping: "no video card" beep code. This is good.
• Then add the video card and connect it to the monitor. You should get no beeping and you should see the BIOS screens, ending with the message that there is no boot device.
If you get no video then switch the one memory stick installed for another one and test.
Continue adding components one at a time.
If at any point the PC fails the the last component added was the problem one.
If you removed everything and there is only the Motherboard (with integrated video), processor, and power supply to contend with and it does not POST or show anything on the screen, then the problem is one of those three.
If you have tested by using another power supply then you are down to two. CPUs rarely fail, so motherboard is the most likely guess.
Try performing a CLRTC or Clear CMOS as a last ditch effort, and check the 3v battery. Both long shots, but what do you have to lose at this point. The RAM checked through, I didn't get a problem. But after I turned it on with the RAM inside, I didn't get an error message for the missing video card. I went through with the rest and it appeared to be normal. I'm going to try the CLRTC/Clear CMOS.
If none of these work, should I have my motherboard exchanged? Also removed the battery. Didn't work. I just tried installing Ubuntu from a USB and it shuts off in the same manner.
Should I just take it to the shop? | My System Specs | | |
01 Jun 2012
|
#9 | | Windows 7 SP1, Home Premium, 64-bit |

Quote: Originally Posted by Holahihello Should I just take it to the shop? Not yet.
Wait for more input.
You could have bad hardware, but it's difficult to tell directly without specific tools.
At some point, you may be able to narrow it down to motherboard OR processor. At that point, you might have to just guess it was the motherboard because processor failures are VERY uncommon.
I assume you have do not have a second power supply that you could swap in if necessary?
I'd wait for more comments. | My System Specs | | System Manufacturer/Model Number Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one OS Windows 7 SP1, Home Premium, 64-bit CPU Intel Sandy Bridge i5-2500, not overclocked Motherboard Gigabyte H67A-UD3H-B3, full ATX Memory 4 GB Crucial DDR3-1333 Graphics Card none; graphics are integrated on CPU Sound Card onboard: Realtek ALC892; external: USB Behringer UF0-202 Monitor(s) Displays NEC 90GX2-BK 19" LCD Screen Resolution 800 x 640 Keyboard Leopold Tenkeyless with Cherry Blue switches, USB Mouse Logitech or Microsoft optical wired; either USB or PS 2 PSU Seasonic SS-560KM, modular Case Antec Solo II Cooling CPU: Scythe Big Shuriken; Case: Scythe Slipstream 800 & 500 Hard Drives System: Intel 320 Series SSD, 80 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD15EADS-00P8B0, 1.5TB Other Info Power consumption of this system, including monitor: 68 watts at idle; 144 watts at full load |
02 Jun 2012
|
#10 | | |

Quote: Originally Posted by ignatzatsonic 
Quote: Originally Posted by Holahihello Should I just take it to the shop? Not yet.
Wait for more input.
You could have bad hardware, but it's difficult to tell directly without specific tools.
At some point, you may be able to narrow it down to motherboard OR processor. At that point, you might have to just guess it was the motherboard because processor failures are VERY uncommon.
I assume you have do not have a second power supply that you could swap in if necessary?
I'd wait for more comments. I do not have a second power supply to swap in.
I'm starting to think it might be the motherboard. Its supposed to have on board graphics, correct? Well when I try to use the ports from the motherboard, it doesn't give me an image. Not sure if maybe a BIOS setting is clicked off. | My System Specs | | First installation of Windows 7 x64 restarts on "Starting Windows" problems? All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:32 PM. | |