Show Us Your Rig [4]

Lady Fitzgerald said:

essenbe said:

Try this pcie slot covers, Frozen CPU, or this, Lian Li Solid Replacement PCI Slot Cover (PI-02A) - FrozenCPU.com

Thanks but those aren't the ones. We were referring to the blue covers on the PCI-e sockets.

Something like these or these?

ganjiry said:

linnemeyerhere said:

ganjiry, Black case is the Corsair Carbide 400R

Very similar to the 500R enit

@ ICit2lol, I think i saw a couple of your threads when you were struggling. Glad you got it sorted

Yes mate I was it was a jungle in there and as I said if not for my mate it would gathering dust in the corner. I am just a bit too gung ho for my own good

linnemeyerhere said:

Might I suggest a sealed water system, so many good ones out it really all depends on the case and available mounts which you have a great 240mm option in the top and of course the 120mm out the rear of the case. Check out my systems
Attachment 244468

Attachment 244469

Attachment 244470

Attachment 244471

Attachment 244472 pictures for ideas.
Corsair Hydro H70 CORE Liquid CPU Cooler and Corsair SP120 Performance Edition Fan Twin Pack Bundle CW-9060002-WW Bundle at TigerDirect

Hum nice rig linne I am intrigued by the orientation of the LC - mine I just curled around to keep the thing tidy and looking at yours I could have perhaps mounted the rad under one of the top 200 mm's and routed the tubes back to the back panel and then up hugging the back panel up to that rad.
Just as a matter of interest does that orientation affect the dissipation of heat from the rad as it seems mine is only three quarters full and I can imagine inside the liquid lying only on one side of the rad cooling fins.
But all in all I was just really impressed - not that I am any great builder or expert!!

If I get any boring days might be worth a try:)

ICit2lol,
The pictures are actually three different systems but they all share a common top mount orientation. As far as I can tell these sealed systems all are purged of as much air as possible as an air bubble could cause the pump to cavitate. I've played with single fan as well as push pull fans in both a case air exhaust or cool air intake fan orientation. Currently I'm forced to use my 240mm rad with 2 fans in a pure outside air pushed through the radiator and into the case then the 140mm rear case fan will pull that warm air out the back. This is working very well for me but each case and set up can vary some. The three prior set ups with an H50 then and H100 I exhausted case air out with best results or the same cooling results.

Hum well perhaps the space inside my rad is a vacuum because I do remember shaking it before I installed it and it rattled just like you get with a bottle that is about three quarters full, or if you can imagine the fluid coming to that welded joint of the fins and top tank?? if you held the rad upright.

If there is not supposed to be any rattling then maybe I have lemon rad??

Both Corsair Hydro's i've owned have not been totally full. Would'nt it restrict the flow of the coolant if no air at all was in there??

ganjiry said:

Both Corsair Hydro's i've owned have not been totally full. Would'nt it restrict the flow of the coolant if no air at all was in there??

No ganjiry when I did plumbing with my Dad years ago gravity fed hot water systems depended on being totally air free - it always had what is know an expansion pipe from the the main hot water tank that not only carried away water that expanded and may have caused the hot water cylinder to burst but also to relieve / purge the system of air because air bubbles however small restricted the flow of water from the heat source to the holding tank where it eventually lost temperature and returned to the system heat source to be reheated.
Now of course we do have a pump driving a LC and that does alleviate that problem to a certain extent but I am wondering if my system contains say at least one fifth of the rad - air then it would mean that the pump would have to work hard to drive the water / liquid over the top of the finned core unit to the "header" tank and thence return back down it once cooled.
Which also brings into speculation that if that flow was fast how much actual cooling would be effected? In actual fact if you were to us the same circulatory set up in a car I wonder how ell it would work or at all? as it works on a pump thermo syphon principle.

As far as I am concerned with a pure liquid cooled system there should never be air in the loop. I am refering to the self built system as with my system, there should never be air in the loop, and you should dip and lift the case to get rid of all the air before seeling it up again. Not sure if its the same with your pre-built waterblock systems. But I believe the same applies imho.

Cheers chaps. Learn something new every day