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  1. Posts : 26,863
    Windows 11 Pro
       #561

    I think they used to make Corsair's too, but Corsair recently changed. And not to anger everyone, I think they make the case look a lot cleaner and neater, but for efficiency, they are no better than a high end air cooler. As many of you know, I live in Florida and get some pretty high ambient temps. because of that I have bought nearly every kind of cooler you can buy, including the H50, H80, H100 and have a brand new Antec 920 in a box right now. But, none of them will beat my Noctua NH-D14. The only one so far thay has come close to matching it was the H100, but the D14 still beat it by 3-4C Although I've never used one, I'm sure the Silver Arrow or the Phanteks (SP?) would be very close to the D14.
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  2. Posts : 2,973
    Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
       #562

    That's true Steve, every reviewer has said about the same thing pretty much. Good air coolers will cool about 1-2% better than similarly priced water cooling units. Here's the problem I see: The cooler I have uses one fan and cools my CPU better than I could imagine. It only came with one fan, not two like some of the good air coolers do. My question is, do high end air coolers perform the same with just one fan?

    Now, that being said, I tend to think the benefits of a closed loop system far outweigh the 2-3* difference(when there is an actual difference). I agree that a closed loop system looks much nicer than a big air cooler. It makes it possible to actually get in the case and work on it without fear of bumping the air cooler and knocking it out of whack or worse. I personally don't like the idea of a 2-3lb chunk of aluminum hanging precariously off my expensive motherboard, AND potentially blocking a RAM slot. I know there are people still leery about water cooling in a computer, but I'm completely sold on them.

    Also, Asetek made the corsair units with the round style pumps, I believe, not the squared off pumps.
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  3. Posts : 26,863
    Windows 11 Pro
       #563

    Kelly, maybe the configuration of the air coolers matters, but most studies show that the difference in push vs push/pull on average make about a 3C difference. I just built a computer for my movies and have a Thermaltake Frio on it. The stock fans sound more like a 747 so I put 1 Noctua NP-F12 on it. It is almost dead silent and does the job pretty well. I admit, I wouldn't try any suicide OC's with it, but it does as well as any. I also have just 1 140mm fan on my D14 and it seems to do just as well with the 1 fan vs 2. But, yes that is one big hunk of metal. But, I've been using the D14 for several years now and it has been on several boards. None had a problem with it. It is in use right now in another rig I have. Even though I have an aversion to water too, I have a custom loop in my main rig. It will beat the D14 or any air cooler out there. The few out there that know me personally know that I have fought temps for a long time. I have probably bought enough CPU coolers to start a shop selling them.

    I absolutely love my closed loop system. For the first time in my life I never worry about temps. I would not hesitate to start Pime and go to dinner with the wife and never wonder about temps. But, for a couple of personal reasons I'm thinking of taking it out and replacing it with another D14 or a closed loop cooler. I believe my overclocking days are done. At least suicide runs, I'll probably always overclock as I do now. But, for your question, yes most top end coolers will run as cool with 1 fan as with 2, at least close enough you won't tell a big difference.
      My Computer


  4. Posts : 2,973
    Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
       #564

    I live in southern KY and trust me, I know what you mean. The heat and humidity make it absolutely miserable here. I appreciate the way water absorbs the shock of immediate, extreme heat and how within 5-10 minutes of stressing, the CPU is as hot as it will ever get without any spikes in temp. I've left this rig running Prime95 for 12 hours, and then AIDA64 for 12+ hours and it hit it's max temps in less than 10 minutes, leveled out, and ran consistently the rest of the time with very little variation, and no erratic fan behavior. I can't ask anymore out of a cooler! :)
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  5. Posts : 7,466
    Windows 10 Home Premium 64bit sp1
       #565

    Seriously I didn't even put to much effort in the voltage I should of been running a offset of + 0.175

    for 1.3 volts but damn it Jim I was running 1.288 when I did this off set of 0.115+ Smh this off set thing always throws me off

    I got a Linepack error during IBT obviously I am seriously undervolted

    I'm Validated though
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Seven Forums Overclock Leader boards-49multi.png  
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  6. Posts : 2,973
    Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
       #566

    If you are going for a straight OC validation, you can use a manual voltage Tommy
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  7. Posts : 7,466
    Windows 10 Home Premium 64bit sp1
       #567

    kbrady1979 said:
    If you are going for a straight OC validation, you can use a manual voltage Tommy
    i'll probably try that later on then I know I need somewhere like 1.32 or something oh hell i'll be right back :)
      My Computer


  8. Posts : 2,973
    Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
       #568

    For 4.9 jiggahertz, 1.32 might be a tad low. It's a starting point of course, but don't be surprised if it takes around 1.4xx to boot up into Windows.

    Also, I have no idea how you set your BIOS up, so it may work or it may not lol.....50/50 anyway.
      My Computer


  9. Posts : 7,466
    Windows 10 Home Premium 64bit sp1
       #569

    Ok I am sure I could pass @ 1.33volts 1.320 almost got me there with a max draw of 1.328

    I tried 5 passes got 4 to go then warning 1 of my cores got to 88c
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Seven Forums Overclock Leader boards-no-pass.png  
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  10. Posts : 7,466
    Windows 10 Home Premium 64bit sp1
       #570

    kbrady1979 said:
    For 4.9 jiggahertz, 1.32 might be a tad low. It's a starting point of course, but don't be surprised if it takes around 1.4xx to boot up into Windows.

    Also, I have no idea how you set your BIOS up, so it may work or it may not lol.....50/50 anyway.

    Well I followed that cheat sheet you gave me but made adjustments along the way seems like I can get it to run at 1.33 just fine my LLC is on Ultra by the way so maybe that is why I am having such great results with low voltage

    Above post I got it to boot off of 1.288 volts lol This chip is Crazy
      My Computer


 
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