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Windows 7: Got a New Case!


22 Apr 2014   #11

Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by Layback Bear View Post
Nice case Lady...
Thanks!

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by Layback Bear View Post
...You have certainly done your homework and planning...
I've only just begun. I spent this afternoon stripping unneeded parts (three fans, the tool-free clips on the 5.25" cage, etc.) and parts that are in the way for now (such as the HDD cages) and trying to figure out what kind of surgery is needed, etc.

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by Layback Bear View Post
...I have a 600t and the fan controller is basically useless. I hope yours is better...
Supposedly it is; it's the newer version plus I would have used it only on the front fan but I've just about decided to put the front fan on a MOBO header, based on recent research. I would clip the leads off of the fan switch and leave it in place to fill in the hole. I'm waiting to hear back from Cooler Master on how much current the Megaflow draws since, according the ASUS forums, the MOBO fan headers are rated at only 1A and I just can't afford to burn up MOBOs.

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by Layback Bear View Post
...If by chance you need some fan filters you can take a look at some magnetic fan filters. They might meet your needs is some places...
I'm not especially crazy about magnetic fan filters; to me, they look a little Mickey Mouse. I am using one on the PSU in my current rig, however, mostly to keep dropped screws out of the PSU since it's mounted fan up. The PSU fan in the new case will face down so I won't need the filter for that. I am going to get some of them to get the finer filter mesh they have to put on the bottom and front filters of the 650D (the original mesh is coarser than I care for) and on the filters I'm going to put on the two side fans I'm going to add.

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by Layback Bear View Post
...Because of your concern with dust this might be helpful.
Covering your rear pci slots not use and any other holes with black packaging that comes with things like motherboards or video cards.
My reasoning is air should only come into and out of the case where you want it to and filters on all incoming air. I have a cat; you have Arizona.
Maybe this will give you a idea of what I'm speaking of. Look at the back panel of the case. The extra pci slots are covered on the back outside of the case with the same material...
I totally agree about the only place air should come in should be through filters. I have plenty of blank covers to replace the ventilated covers, although only one or two will remain uncovered when I migrate my computer into the case. I put in one of the blank covers yesterday to make sure it would do the job.

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by Layback Bear View Post
...The top of your new case looks ready made for a H100; just a thought...
LOL! Not gona happen. I don't totally trust water cooling and don't really need it. That part of the case is giving me the most grief on how to deal with that huge air dust leak without making it look Mickey Mouse.

Thanks for your suggestions!

My System SpecsSystem Spec
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22 Apr 2014   #12

Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by Mellon Head View Post
Nice, Lady Fitz.

I hope you'll share a pic or two when the build gets all done up. It sounds like it's going to be awesome.
Well, since you asked, OK.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
22 Apr 2014   #13

Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by Layback Bear View Post
...When you locate your case will you still have access to the power supply filter? Just a thought...
Totally missed this one. Sorry!

Yes, I will. I'll have to do it the same way I get to the rear cables on my present machine—I pull the case forward and let it hang over the edge of the night stand. I don't see why I wouldn't be able to do the same with the PSU filter. I can easily remove and put it back in without having to see what I'm doing.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
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22 Apr 2014   #14

Windows 7 Pro. 64/SP-1
 
 

I really don't know why Corsair doesn't have the filter come out from the side instead of the back.
I'm lucky I can just slide my 600t forward and remove the filter. Many might not have that ability without removing all the harness/cables.
By the time you are ready for your build Corsair might have a new side panel that will allow installing fans on the panel.
They did for the 600t when they discovered their was a market for it. I don't remember what it cost. I got it and put two 140mm fans on it.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
22 Apr 2014   #15

Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by Layback Bear View Post
I really don't know why Corsair doesn't have the filter come out from the side instead of the back.
I'm lucky I can just slide my 600t forward and remove the filter. Many might not have that ability without removing all the harness/cables.
By the time you are ready for your build Corsair might have a new side panel that will allow installing fans on the panel.
They did for the 600t when they discovered their was a market for it. I don't remember what it cost. I got it and put two 140mm fans on it.
One can get a mesh insert for the 650D left side panel to go in place of the acrylic window. It has holes for up to four 120mm fans. My problem with that is a lot of unfiltered air can get in past the fans.

A hole saw will make short work of making the two big holes for the fans on the side panel. If I can't rent one, I'll just buy one. One advantage of doing it myself is I can put the fans exactly where they need to be with enough space between them to allow the use of filters.

There is enough slack in my rear cables to allow pulling them to one side so the PSU filter can clear. I also keep the cables bundled together so that makes moving them a bit easier.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
22 Apr 2014   #16

Windows 7 Pro. 64/SP-1
 
 

You seem to have it all worked out. It will be nice to see when your doing this project and when you are done.
My side case fans is where I use the magnetic filters.

Did you understand what I meant about blocking all the holes in the back of the case that are not used?
My System SpecsSystem Spec
23 Apr 2014   #17

Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by Layback Bear View Post
You seem to have it all worked out. It will be nice to see when your doing this project and when you are done.
My side case fans is where I use the magnetic filters.

Did you understand what I meant about blocking all the holes in the back of the case that are not used?
I thought I did (but, then again, I'm old and going senile). This is what I said earlier:

I have plenty of blank covers to replace the ventilated covers, although only one or two will remain uncovered when I migrate my computer into the case. I put in one of the blank covers yesterday to make sure it would do the job.

I'm still mulling over how to seal up the other (stupid) holes on the back of the case. Six of them have a flange bent in so they will have to be cut off (thank God for Mr. Dremel and his little tool). After that, I haven't decided yet how to fill the holes in or cover them. Options I've been mulling over include:

1. Soldering a thin, steel backing plate (mayhap shim stock) behind the hole and filling the remaining depression with Bondo (auto body filler) or body solder (the backing plate would get covered by acoustic foam so no one would ever see it).

2. Gluing a backing plate of thin steel behind the hole with epoxy and filling the remaining depression with Bondo.

3. Screw or rivet a trim strip on each side to cover the holes (actually, this one just now occurred to me). If I prepainted the strip, it might spare me having to repaint the entire back. Curiously enough, I have a length of 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum left over from when I was building my present machine. I needed a 1/8" x 1/4" x 6" piece to cover some holes at the ends of the PCI covers. The closest I could find was a 4' length of 1/8" by 3/4" aluminum so I had to cut what I needed from it. I would have to cut recesses in the back to clear the rivets that would otherwise be in the way. Unfortunately, I would still need to fill or cover the two large round coolant hose openings on the back and the big square hole at the top of the back for the USB pass-through cables.

Got a New Case!-corsair-650d-back-view.jpg

Right now, option number 2 is in first place.

I've pretty much worked out how to deal with the bottom holes. Since I can't ever see needing to remove the third HDD cage, I can just put it in permanently, using two regular screws with Loctite instead of thumbscrews, bend over the two front tabs that will stick through the bottom (there is a third one but I can cut it off since it isn't needed), use a bit of epoxy putty to fill the larger holes that can be backed up from above, use aluminum tape on the bottom to cover those holes and the small holes, then repaint the bottom. Since it is the bottom, I'm not as concerned with how it looks.


My System SpecsSystem Spec
23 Apr 2014   #18

Windows 7 Pro. 64/SP-1
 
 

A idea.

acoustic foam about 1/8 to 1/4 in. thick.

You could cut to fit from the inside of the case on the back panel with just a cut out for the fan and video card. You could also use the acoustic to cover the bottom of the case from the inside where possible.
This would not only cover up places where unfiltered air would come in but also make things a little quieter.
I use this foam to do lots of things like I have 2 front bays that I don't use. I put the foam behind them to block the air even though they have filters.
Trying to keep as much as I can a positive pressure case and as much exhaust going up through the radiator.
With your location in the would trying to make as much as you can a positive pressure case is necessary.

Every case is different and will direct air differently through the case but you can control where it comes in and out and to some degree it's path through the case.
If by chance you need any suggestions just ask.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
23 Apr 2014   #19

Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
 
 

Quote   Quote: Originally Posted by Layback Bear View Post
A idea.

acoustic foam about 1/8 to 1/4 in. thick.

You could cut to fit from the inside of the case on the back panel with just a cut out for the fan and video card. You could also use the acoustic to cover the bottom of the case from the inside where possible.
This would not only cover up places where unfiltered air would come in but also make things a little quieter.
I use this foam to do lots of things like I have 2 front bays that I don't use. I put the foam behind them to block the air even though they have filters.
Trying to keep as much as I can a positive pressure case and as much exhaust going up through the radiator.
With your location in the would trying to make as much as you can a positive pressure case is necessary.

Every case is different and will direct air differently through the case but you can control where it comes in and out and to some degree it's path through the case.
If by chance you need any suggestions just ask.
I'm way ahead of you on this. My present case has 7mm acoustic foam, which does a surprisingly good job of keeping the case quieter, not to mention sealing tiny leaks, and I will be using it for my new case. It looks kinda crappy for sealing larger holes but it does a good job of hiding patches on larger holes on the inside of a case. I even fitted it close to fan holes so it would serve as a fan gasket.

I found a way to seal the two large round holes on the back of the case that currently have the rubber grommets in them. I just found and ordered some flat polyethylene plugs at McMaster-Carr online that are a perfect fit for those plugs. Had to order a hundred of them (mutter, mutter) but they aren't all that expensive and they are a sanitary way to deal with those holes. And I will never run out of plugs!

I've been agonizing over what to do about the rear fan grill. Options included:

Ignoring it and the half dozen or so holes that wouldn't be covered by the 140mm fan I'm putting in. While that is the easiest option, it would be the noisiest and would move the least air.

Somewhat better would cutting a 120mm hole in the grill and put a 120mm wire grill over it. It would look a bit dorky but it would cut noise down a bit and move some more air.

The next option, cutting a 140mm hole in the grill and putting a 140mm wire grill over it would look even dorkier and would be a bit more work. So far, all options still have some leaks because the top and bottom rows in the stock grill fall outside of even a 140mm fan and the raised portion of the grill makes it harder to get a good seal.

The option I just settled on tonight involves cutting out the entire raised portion of the grill plus any remaining part of the case that would fall inside of the perimeter of a 140mm fan, then cover everything up with a milled aluminum grill.



I'm going to cut out the "gun sight" in the center and replace it with a wire grill. The center looks really nice but leaves too much room for fingers to get in. I'm on an aspirin regimen and I bleed pretty profusely from cuts. I once half cut, half tore off most of a thumbnail and had to go to the emergency room to get the bleeding stopped. Even they had one heck of a time stopping it, finally resorting to what is basically superglue. A wire grill is safer plus I'm going to be using wire grills on the top so all three will look the same. I'll have to cut a couple of millimeters off the left and right sides. One bonus is two of my problems holes will also get covered up. This option is the most sanitary one I could come up with and gives the best airflow and lowest noise with the least amount of work.

I also found out I can run the 200mm CM Mega flow fan off one of my MOBO fan headers with no problems. I'm still trying to find out from Xigamatek how much current the fan of theirs I want to use will draw. If push comes to shove, I may have to use a powered PWM fan splitter on the two side fans and another one on the two top fans. One thing I may try is to run a fan off my spare PSU through various size fuses to see which size blows. Theoretically, I can run up to 1A on a fan header but I would rather not push the limits. A powered PWM hub supplies power to the fans from its own PSU cable and only gets the speed and PWM signals from the MOBO hub. The only one I know of is Swiftech's 8 port PWM hub. It's overkill since I would run only two fans off each one of two hubs bit I may not have a choice.

Well, Folks, it's long past my bedtime so nighty-night.
My System SpecsSystem Spec
23 Apr 2014   #20

Win8/8.1,Win7-U64, Vista U64, uncounted Linux distor's
 
 

Pics or it didn't happen!

Take a look at these filters.
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