| Windows 7: Cracking with Realtek HD - New soundcard |
14 May 2011
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#1 | | |
Cracking with Realtek HD - New soundcard There is another thread all about the problem in the title so I won't get into too many details here, only to say that I get a crackling type noise after waking my computer from sleeping or hibernating. I know some others have the same issue. I don't get it when restarting fully though. I use the Realtek HD sound chip built in to my motherboard.
I've had enough of it, plus I'm also sick of the constant noises coming out of my speakers due to interference from my Skype box, mobile phone, mains hum, etc.. Whatever I try and wherever I move things too, I still get constant noise of some sort.
All I want is high quality sound, and I'm not even bothered about surround at the moment. I'd like 2.1 though as I definitely need a subwoofer. So finally my question - If I buy a new soundcard and speakers that I can connect digitally (current speakers only have an analogue connection), will I get rid of all these nasty noises?
Thanks for any help. | My System Specs |
| OS Windows 7 Premium 64bit |
14 May 2011
|
#2 | | Windows 7, 64 bit Home SP1, Win 8 Pro 64 bit Citrus Co, FL |
Going to a "digital" output most likely will not change anything. Sleep/Standby can and has caused many problems. I don't use either, the only thing I do is "power off" the monitor after a designated period, nothing else.
There are also the "noise", "crackling", "popping" or whatever you want to call it with separate sound cards, too. All the sources or potential sources of the problems have to be eliminated. | My System Specs | | Computer type PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number My Own Build OS Windows 7, 64 bit Home SP1, Win 8 Pro 64 bit CPU Intel i7 3770 Motherboard Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H Memory 16GB GSkill Ripsaw F3-14900CL9Q-16GBXL Graphics Card Sapphire HD7770 Sound Card RealTek Monitor(s) Displays Viewsonic VA2448 Series 24" LED Screen Resolution 1920X1080 Keyboard Kensington wired Mouse Logitech Wireless PSU Antec High Current Gamer HCG-620M Modular Case Coolermaster HAF XM Cooling Corsair H80 Liquid cooling with aftermarket Nexus quiet fans Hard Drives 240GB Intel 520 SSD for Win 7
128GB OCZ Vertex 4 SSD for Win 8
1 TB Seagate drive for backup Internet Speed 40 MB/sec (Cable) Antivirus Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Browser I.E9/Firefox Other Info Sonar X2 Professional 64 bit Recording Software with Roland Octa-Capture and MAudio Fast Track Ultra 8R recording interfaces, Frontier Tranzport wireless control unit, Behringer BCF2000 Control Surface.
Five USB connected optical drives for CD Audio production using Nero 11
Other systems: Desktop with i5 3550 CPU, LenovoZ560 Laptop with Win 7 64 bit HP, SP1, new iPad |
14 May 2011
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#3 | | |
Thanks for replying Fireberd. The reason I think a digital output may help is that any noise picked up in the cabling between the PC output and speaker amp input, won't then be heard. Of course it's hard to be sure exactly what part of the system that noise is being picked up at.
I did have another sound card before, which was a highly thought of one but I had issues with it, particularly the terrible software. So I sold it but now wish I'd kept it as I was better off than I am now. I did still have some noise picked up "somewhere", but at least I didn't have this crackling. | My System Specs | | OS Windows 7 Premium 64bit |
14 May 2011
|
#4 | | Windows 7, 64 bit Home SP1, Win 8 Pro 64 bit Citrus Co, FL |
Unless you have a poorly grounded system and are running the speaker cables over AC power, near transformers, etc there shouldn't be any noise, crackling, hum, etc introduced into the audio. The output from the PC is a relatively low Impedence which is not susecptable to picking up noise. I am a guitar amp tech, along with a PC tech and haven't seen what you think is being caused by the speaker cable.
You can verify if it's the speaker system or the PC by plugging a headset into the GREEN speaker jack on the rear of the PC to see if you hear the same thing or not. Same way you should be getting the same thing on the front panel headphone jack (if you have one). | My System Specs | | Computer type PC/Desktop System Manufacturer/Model Number My Own Build OS Windows 7, 64 bit Home SP1, Win 8 Pro 64 bit CPU Intel i7 3770 Motherboard Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H Memory 16GB GSkill Ripsaw F3-14900CL9Q-16GBXL Graphics Card Sapphire HD7770 Sound Card RealTek Monitor(s) Displays Viewsonic VA2448 Series 24" LED Screen Resolution 1920X1080 Keyboard Kensington wired Mouse Logitech Wireless PSU Antec High Current Gamer HCG-620M Modular Case Coolermaster HAF XM Cooling Corsair H80 Liquid cooling with aftermarket Nexus quiet fans Hard Drives 240GB Intel 520 SSD for Win 7
128GB OCZ Vertex 4 SSD for Win 8
1 TB Seagate drive for backup Internet Speed 40 MB/sec (Cable) Antivirus Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Browser I.E9/Firefox Other Info Sonar X2 Professional 64 bit Recording Software with Roland Octa-Capture and MAudio Fast Track Ultra 8R recording interfaces, Frontier Tranzport wireless control unit, Behringer BCF2000 Control Surface.
Five USB connected optical drives for CD Audio production using Nero 11
Other systems: Desktop with i5 3550 CPU, LenovoZ560 Laptop with Win 7 64 bit HP, SP1, new iPad |
14 May 2011
|
#5 | | |
Ok thanks, I'll try your suggestion. I do have a mass of wires crossing each other as I have little room to place them and some are too short to go a more sensible route. Some day I'll have to sort it all out and re-position all my equipment I suppose. As an ex electronics engineer I do have some understanding of all this, but I admit I'm lazy when it comes to doing things properly at home. | My System Specs | | OS Windows 7 Premium 64bit Cracking with Realtek HD - New soundcard problems? All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:52 PM. | |