Realtek HD Changing Jack output reassignments ( FIX )

Truly sorry it took me this long to post, but i am on vacation and internet acces is not always at hand.

As for the fix, i'll just copy my post from OCN and readd the pictures.

Wezdor said:

Wezdor
I have managed a find a fix for the remapping issue, if anyone is interested.

What i did was, i went to the MSI page and downloaded their version of the Realtek HD manager. I specifically downloaded this driver from this page, as i have an Asrock x79 Extreme4-m motherboard; you want to download the drivers closest to your motherboard, or try with these, I only had one mobo to test this on.

Then, after downloading them and installing them, i opened up the .zip, went into the WDM folder and searched for RTHDCPL.exe or RTLCPL.exe and ran that. This opened up a second Realtek UI, alongside the usual one, which looked like old XP UI, as seen here:
Quote: Originally Posted by Sonorous

-snip-

-snip-


Now that you have that open, you want to click on the little wrench key next to "Analog" and tick the box next to "Enable auto popup dialog, when device has been plugged in".

With that done, you can just plug the device you want to remap out and back into the jack, and a popup should come up asking you what you want it to be.

Let me know if it worked for you!

If you have any questions or it does not work for you, don't hesitate to ask. I will try to help you to my best ability.

Also, i don't think it's even necessary to install those drivers, simply running the aplication will probably work.

I have a laptop,and my headphone jack is broken,i need to edit mine to make the mic work as a headphone jack,any help?

Koukou said:

Just wanted to say thanks! I've been looking for a soloution to this for a long time! <3

A small tip to something that threw me off: (for people with an AW9d motherboard at least)

If you can't see "Pin01" etc. You will have to re-plug it and then refresh the window.

example; if you want to switch rear black into rear green.

Plug the cable into the green socket and press f5, then the pin will appear, then plug it in to the black socket and hit "f5" again and that pin will appear aswell.

Then just change the valuable of the last "PinXX" to the first "PinXX", Restart your computer, and you're golden :)

I just had to register to thank you. (also thanks for the OP)

I've been looking for answer to this problem literally for years. And today I happened to find this thread, of course my registry didn't show those "pin01" etc. But that unplugging and then checking registry again worked.

Mine was:
Pin14 04 00 00 00 Front
Pin15 05 00 00 00 Rear
Pin16 06 00 00 00 Center
Pin17 07 00 00 00 Side

Latest Realtek drivers. Win 8 Pro.
Kills the "true" 5.1/7.1 audio, but I couldn't set up my speakers like they should be anyway and don't have anything with real surround audio except games.

Yeah I'm few years late to this party. Weird that Realtek hasn't still fixed that speaker fill.

My first time posting here. Been trying to figure my issue out. I wonder if it has issues with the front panel being active even though I plugged it into the rear jacks.

These are my specs:
- MSI P67A-GD65 w/ Realtek ALC892
- Yamaha RX-V457 with 5.1 setup
- Speaker Fill is active

My Front L and R works fine. Center too.

However during tests, the subwoofer doesn't seem to be responding. If I off and on my sub, the sub test responded fine. But in movies or games, the sub is silent. The rear speakers have sound but I hear sounds coming from both rear L and R when I only tested the rear L or R respectively. If you see my image below, my front panel lights up even though nothing is connected.

I have connector retasking, but doesn't let me do much. MSi defaults green-front, orange-center/sub and grey-rear. I tried the registry edit, but can't seem to find the related stuff. I also tried the WDM folder for RTHDCPL.exe or RTLCPL.exe. I ran it, but nothing happened.

Can anyone help?

If you're not trying to alter what the analog input/outputs are supposed to be then I highly recommend switching to digital. The TOSlink cables dont cost that much anymore and you will only need that one cable going to your receiver. I recently picked up a 25ft TOSlink at newegg for about 10 bucks. Not sure why I didn't switch to digital earlier.

If you are trying to alter the analog input/outputs on Win8 I'll repost if I have the same issue. I'm just waiting on a power supply for a new HTPC that I built and I'll be altering (hopefully) what the ports are assigned to.

I am currently using toslink. It works great for movie w/ dolby dts passthrough. But for pc gaming, I cannot get my 5.1 unless I go analog. ALC892 does not support dolby digital live, so I am lucked out. My brief moment testing the analog setup that gaming defn sounds better. But still not sub or mixed rear