BSOD/crashes. IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL

To check RAM settings:

Download and install CPU-Z and Upload screenshots of the CPU, Mainboard, Memory, and SPD tabs. In the SPD tab, upload an image of each slot.

Also, go into your BIOS and post all Voltages (CPU, RAM, NB, IMC, etc.) and all RAM settings (timings, frequency, etc.)

Thanks to Dave76 for help learning RAM Stability


Also, when was the last time you cleared the CMOS? How To Clear CMOS (Reset BIOS)

I have reset the BIOS twice before, but no change to the kind of crashes. I can't really remember when the last time was that I did it, but before I started posting here I believe.

The images from CPUZ are here. The following contains information copied from the BIOS screen. It's a lot, and it was a lot to type. I hope that it's all there:

Ai Tweaker tab

(greyed out) Target CPU Frequency : 3200MHz
(greyed out) Target DRAM Frequency: 1333Mhz

CPU Level Up: Auto
-------------
OC Tuner Utility (has never been used)
Ai Overclock Tuner : Auto
CPU Ratio : Auto
DRAM Frequency: AUto
CPU/NB Frequency: Auto
HT Link Speed: Auto

DRAM Timing Configuration (all set to auto, the greyed out figures are as follows):
DRAM CAS# Latency: 9
DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay: 9
DRAM RAS# PRE Time: 9
DRAM RAS# ACT Time: 24
DRAM READ to PRE Time: 5
DRAM Row Cycle Time: 33
DRAM WRITE Recovery Time: 10
DRAM RAS# to RAS# Delay: 4

DRAM READ to WRITE Delay: 8
DRAM WRITE to READ Delay (DD): 2
DRAM WRITE To READ Delay (SD)" 5
DRAM WRITE to WRITE Timing: 4
DRAM READ to READ Timing : 4
DRAM REF cycle Time: 110
DRAM Refresh Rate: 7.8
DRAM Command Rate: 1T


DRAM Driving Configuration screen (All set to Audo, greyed out figures are as follows):
Under section DCT0 Information:
CKE drive Strength: 1.5X
CS/ODT drive strength: 1.5X
ADDR/CMD drive strength: 1.5X
MEMCLK drive strength: 1.5X
Data drive strength: 1X
DQS drive strength: 1X
processor ODT: 60 ohms
Under DCT1 Information screen:
Exactly the same as above


CPU & NB Voltage Mode: Offset
CPU offset Voltage: Auto (1.272) (min= 0.003125V, max = -:0.062500V, +:0.700000V) Standard = By CPU, Increment = 0.003125V)
CPU/NB offeset voltage: Auto (1.100) (min= 0.003125V, Max=0.700000V, Standard = By CPU, Increment = 0.003125V)
DRAM Voltage : Auto (Min= 1.20000V, Max = 2.20000V, Interval = 0.00625V, Standard = 1.50000V
HT Voltage: auto (Min=1.20000V, Max=1.40000V, Interal = 0.00625V, Standard = 1.20000V)
NB Voltage (Min= 1.10000V, Max - 1.25000V, Interval= 0.00625V, Standard=1.10000)
CPU Load-Line Calibration: auto
CPU/NB Load Line calibration: atuo
CPU Spread Spectrum: auto
PCIE Spread PSectrum: ato

Chipset SCreen
Northbridge Chipset Configuration
Dram controller config:

DRAM Controller configuration screen:
Channel Iterleaving: Auto
MemClk Tristate C3/ATLVID: disabled
Memory Hole remapping: enabled
DCT unganged mode: Always
Power donwn eneable: disabled

ECC config: all disabled

CPU config:
AGESA Cversion: 3.7.1.0
AMD Phenom (™) II X4 955 Processor
Revision: C3
Cache L1: 512KB
Cache L2: 2048KB
Cache L3: 6MB
Speed: 3200 MHz
uCode Patch Level: 0x10000C8
Microcode Updation: Enabled
Secure virtual machine mode: Enabled
Cool n quiet: enabled
C1E support: Enabled
ASUS core unlocker: disabled
CPU core activation: auto

Sorry I missed this last time... Your processor is approaching critical temperature; 62 C is its max. Make sure you have adequate cooling.

AMD Phenom™ II X4 Model 955

Your memory timings and voltages all look good, though. Appreciate you going through that, and those may be helpful later. We could make a few minor adjustments if you still have problems after the processor thermal problem is taken care of.

81 is a lot more than 62. Is there any chance I have damaged my CPU? It has crashed while not doing intensive stuff before, but also it has struggled to start again after some crashes or after using a memory stress test from UBCD (so perhaps the testing program wasn't enough to be crashed by the heat, but the OS was).

And should I consider reapplying thermal paste, or should I just go straight for the new cooler?

Just looking at the fans out there (I'm using stock at the moment), the Noctua NH-C14 looks pretty good. I'd run it with two fan mode. It reviews pretty good too.

Hmm, removing the heat sink will mean that I need to reapply thermal paste, which I have not ever done before. How will I check the paste, once I remove the heat sink, won't that require reapplication no matter what?

I also only have generic thermal paste, called "ZP Heatsink Compounds". It says "high thermal conductivity low bleed stable, uses:thermal coupling of electrical device to heatsinks. Thermal conductivity :>1.22W/m.k, Thermal Rcsistance:<0.201C-in^2/w". I have 10 tubes of it (well, 9 actually, I just emptied one to play with). Is this stuff okay, or do I "have" to get Arctic Silver like the ads tell me to?

The high readings when it crashed were:

Temp 1: 68
CPU: 68
Core 81

So what is the difference between core and CPU?

Yes, if you remove the heat sink, you will have to re-apply the paste. I am suggesting you check the paste after removal to see if it was applied properly initially as that will determine whether that is the issue or not. You will still have to re-apply it regardless of whether you put the current cooling back in or buy a new cooling system.

Arctic Silver, Inc. - Instructions may be helpful.

It looks like I have some choices to make. Someone else has pointed out to me that my problem may be with my mobo, that this particular model has trouble powering CPUs with high power requirement. I really don't know what this means, as I thought it was compatible when I ordered all of the parts, but this person claims that even though the mobo says it can handle this chip, it actually can't.

So I need to decide if I should spend my limited funds on a new mobo or a new cooler. What do you think? I know that I need to take care of the 81C problem regardless though.

That board does seem to have a lot of bad reviews on Newegg.com - ASUS M4A87TD&#47;USB3 AM3 AMD 870 SATA 6Gb&#47;s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard it is probably worth replacing it to see if you can get a better board. A new board could resolve the temperature issues, as well.

As I said before, it may have just been bad thermal contact with the heat sink, so I would investigate that further and use that as a determining factor in whether it makes sense to buy a new board. It could also be the board itself is unable to handle the tasks of running the CPU and cooling it. I am concerned by all the bad reviews given that board on Newegg...