writhziden,
I already did "diskpart clean all".
I just ran a quick chkdsk (/f and then /r) and there were no errors.
However, the computer again hung at the "Expanding Windows Files" step (0%)
I'm at a point right now where I need to decide whether to go get a new HDD.
What are your opinions?
Should I go get one?
Or is the predominate thought that it's the CPU and/or MB?
Glad you already ran clean all to rule out any rootkit problems. It is also definitely promising that your disk passed the disk check.
I would rule out any connector and seating issues first. You may want to especially check the CPU and hard disk connectors. Then check the hard disk itself. Then call the motherboard manufacturer to determine if this is a known problem.
You have gotten a lot of good advice from members who know a lot about hardware problems, so if they feel it is hard disk related, the hard disk should be among the top peripherals to be investigated.
Last edited by writhziden; 20 Jan 2012 at 16:41. Reason: Clearer steps to take. And added clean all and chkdsk...
cnauta, I can't speak for everyone here, but I believe I would try a new hard drive. That does not mean I am convinced the hard drive is your problem. I could be your motherboard, CPU, CPU cooler or your PSU. When you looked in bios for your temps and voltage, the computer was under no stress. Under stress is when components will usually fail. But, the hard drive has given several errors previously and required checkdisk on several occasions. It is also the one component you could buy that could be used in another computer or in this one when we figure this out. many of the tests we would ask you to run require an OS. So, the first priority was to get rid of the virus, which you did. The next priority is to get an OS installed. So, for all of these reasons I think a hard drive should be your next investment. That is just my opinion and what I would try if it were my computer.
To review: You have changed ISO's to the official Win7 ISO, burned new DVD using ImgBurn at 4x speed, written official ISO to stick using Universal USB Installer to boot it and try install - and after trying each of these you still got the same failure or error?
I have seen a keyboard or mouse cause this kind of havoc.
Do you have another keyboard and mouse you can try for testing purposes?
As discussed already: STOP 0x00000101: CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT
Usual causes: Device driver, BIOS bug, hardware defect
The device driver has been eliminated by having no OS.
BIOS bug, is a possibility, get your system stable first.
BIOS version 1.9
- Update CPU micro code.
- Support Low Voltage DRAM.
- Improved memory compatibility.
BIOS version 1A
- Update CPU micro code.
- Update CPU module.
- Update M-Flash module.
BIOS version 1B
- Add buzzer beep warning message with memory unplugged.
- Support 2.2TB HDD.
- Improved memory compatibility.
BIOS version 1C
- Support HDD over 2.2TB.
First get your system stable.
This information is for flashing your BIOS later, if you still need to.
All the above items in Bold may help your issue, if it is not solved by hardware replacement.
Read in the MSI forum on how to flash the BIOS on your motherboard.
BIOS FLASHING
Are you a moron BIOS flasher?
The steps you tried suggested by writhziden make me think the BIOS may not be the cause of the installation issue.
I'm leaning towards the HDD and RAM as the most likely cause, in that order.
Hardware
At this point I would try a different HDD.
Are your externals HDD in an enclosure?
Did you get an sealed external enclosure?
If you can't get the HDD out of the external enclosure, then you will need to buy a HDD. If it proves not to be the cause you can leave it in your computer or buy an external and use it that way.
Having an external enclose with a standard HDD is very useful in cases like this, you can take it out and install it in your system for testing.
RAM
Post your RAM part number so I can check for compatibility issues, this is a major cause of problems and can be very hard to track down.
I suggest to find, borrow or buy a 1 or 2GB RAM card, a single RAM card with 4GB can be causing the OS installation failure.
Have seen it before and have just read it again on the MSI forum.
When memtst86+ passed with 2X4GB RAM cards installed means the RAM was good at the time of that test, just a fact of RAM testing. It is not a guarantee that your RAM is good, just a positive sign that it is likely good.
Where do you have your HDD plugged in on your motherboard?
Check your manual and find the controller that the SATA ports are using, this could be part of the problem.
Make sure it is plugged into the Intel SATA port.
As mentioned by essenbe, "It could be your motherboard, CPU, CPU cooler or your PSU", I wouldn't rule out the HDD and RAM at this point.
Yes, I've had cases where 1st pass would fail and I've had cases where anything more than 5 would fail, upon retest the same amount of passes were required to make the ram fail.
You could also try running a live cd of another OS, this will verify your hardware. I've used live cd's of linux to recover Windows data/partitions and just about everything else. Most come with disk check tools as well.
I agree with Dave76 and essenbe, it's most likely hardware related.
But before you go buying a harddrive, I'd test on a livecd, and have you tried resetting your motherboards CMOS? Completely discharge the motherboard, remove power, remove the cmos battery, wait a few minutes then power up. I've seen flaky behavior from hardware due to a locked gate.
There are easier ways to clear the CMOS than removing the battery. See How To Clear CMOS (Reset BIOS) for other methods, including resetting the BIOS to defaults which has already been tried.
In this case if something is running resident in CMOS or BIOS it would be prudent to completely discharge the motherboard.
Yes there are easier methods, but that is like rebooting to remove a virus hiding in memory.
Alright, if there is a decision by all helping for the OP to remove the CMOS battery, I want to make sure safe electrostatic discharge practices are used. There is a crucial step before removing the CMOS battery. After shutting down, turning off the computer, and removing the power cord, there is still residual power left in the computer. The power button must be held down for 30 seconds to close the circuit and let that power drain. The user must also be grounded. Then the CMOS battery may be removed safely (by safely, I mean both for the user and the components as otherwise the residual charge may be enough to kill a person in some cases and is certainly enough to fry transistors).
I don't believe there was a decision by all helping the OP to remove the CMOS battery. Personally, I don't think that is necessary. Also, I might point out that we have not heard from the OP in 3 days. We may be discussing this among ourselves.
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