Full crash to no power Playing COD:4

This is the first time I have recommended the Sophos Anti-Rootkit scanner as another one of the Gurus mentioned it, and I just tried it out myself.

A couple things to be aware of: to download the scanner, the company asks for quite a bit of information that I myself would not willingly give out, so if it makes you uncomfortable, the other virus/malware scanners I recommended should be sufficient. Also, if you do run the scanner, be judicious about what you select to remove. It found possible threats on my computer that I know are safe, so you will have to go through each file it marks and make sure it is not part of a program that you use. If you are unsure, do a Google search of the file and the program it is part of to see if they belong together, or ask us for our experience.

Still not working, still getting the crash. I had a look through the readme file for the game.
CRASH WITH REALTEK ONBOARD SOUND CARDS

Users with Realtek(TM) onboard sound cards and Windows(R) Vista will need to use Microsoft Audio Drivers 6.0, which can be found at Microsoft Corporation: Software, Smartphones, Online, Games, Cloud Computing, IT Business Technology, Downloads
I had a look around, my driver is definately up to date. Went through my laptop vendor, had a look at the realtek site, my driver is newer then what they have there.

6.0.1.6141 driver number.

I was up for 30 hours searching looking and using all my powers. I ran everything you told me twice, cleaned up a few trojans and so on. *pulling hair out*

ossi said:

Still not working, still getting the crash. I had a look through the readme file for the game.
CRASH WITH REALTEK ONBOARD SOUND CARDS

Users with Realtek(TM) onboard sound cards and Windows(R) Vista will need to use Microsoft Audio Drivers 6.0, which can be found at Microsoft Corporation: Software, Smartphones, Online, Games, Cloud Computing, IT Business Technology, Downloads
I had a look around, my driver is definately up to date. Went through my laptop vendor, had a look at the realtek site, my driver is newer then what they have there.

6.0.1.6141 driver number.

I was up for 30 hours searching looking and using all my powers. I ran everything you told me twice, cleaned up a few trojans and so on. *pulling hair out*

What is the date on your sound card driver? (Start Menu -> Right Click My Computer/Computer -> Manage -> Device Manager (from the list on the left) -> Sound, video and game controllers -> Right Click the Realtek device -> Properties -> Driver tab -> Driver Date: )

Oh, and it is not always a good idea to have a more up to date driver than what is on the site for your laptop manufacturer. The driver on the Acer site may work better with your computer. http://global-download.acer.com/GDFi...C=Acer&SC=PA_6

To re-install, download the driver from the site using the link I gave you above. Then use the following steps to uninstall the newer driver and install the driver from the Acer site.

1. Click Start Menu
2. Right Click My Computer/Computer
3. Click Manage
4. Click Device Manager from the list on the left
5. Expand Sound, video and game controllers
6. Right click the Realtek device
7. Click Uninstall (do not click OK in the dialog box that pops up after hitting Uninstall)
8. Put a tick in Delete driver software for this device (if this option is available, otherwise just hit OK) and hit OK
9. Restart your computer
10. Install the Acer driver for the device once Windows starts.

Alternatively:

1. Login as an adminstrative user.
2. Click Start Menu
3. Click Control Panel
4. Click Hardware and Sound
5. Click Device Manager (the last link under Devices and Printers)
6. Expand Sound, video and game controllers
7. Right click the Realtek device
8. Click Uninstall (do not click OK in the dialog box that pops up after hitting Uninstall)
9. Put a tick in Delete driver software for this device (if this option is available, otherwise just hit OK) and hit OK
10. Restart your computer
11. Install the Acer driver for the device once Windows starts.

Also, could you post the most recent crash report?

Okay, driver date is Tuesday 22/06/2010.
Sorry i didnt explain it correctly. My driver is the one from the acer website.

And here is the driver report.


Again thanks for your help, if im ever in your neck of the woods im buying the first couple of rounds, ill even bring you some aussie rum. :)

Ill be back soon, just want to see if it does it only in MP, or if it happens SP as well.

Ok i got it again. Even in single player. The thing is, i will be playing the game. Bout 20 mins in, it will just switch off completely, straight from the game, to being as though it wasnt turned on. The best way to describe it, would be if it was a desktop, like pulling the power cable. If i wait 5 mins before i turn it back on, it wil just boot into windows. But if i turn it on straight away, it will then bsod on bootup.

That sounds like a temperature issue. Start by blowing the dust out of the system.

To remove dust, follow the following general procedure. If you have a desktop bought from Dell, HP, Sony, Lenovo, etc. make sure removing the desktop casing will not void your warranty first. Call the company if you are still under warranty and ask if it is okay to remove the casing and blow dust out. The procedure described is fine for laptops; just make sure no stickers are on panels saying if you remove the panel it will void the warranty.

1. Shut down and turn off your computer.
2. Unplug all power supplies to the computer (AC Power then battery for laptops, AC power for desktops)
3. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to close the circuit and ensure all power drains from components.
4. Remove the casing for a desktop, or remove any screwed on panels and disc drives for laptops.
5. Blow out the dust inside by using a can of compressed air or a low pressure compressor. You will want to put the computer on a desk or table so you can maintain the can in an upright position if using a can of air. Blow into all crevices on the motherboard, heat sinks, cards, modules, etc. for a desktop. Blow into vents, opened panels, disc drive areas, USB ports, and the keyboard if it is a laptop. You may also want to blow inside the disc drive by replacing the drive to the laptop, starting the computer, opening the drive, and then turning off the computer and removing all power as described above including the 30 second power button step. For a desktop, you may also want to blow inside the disc drive by starting the computer, opening the drive, and then turning off the computer and removing all power as described above including the 30 second power button step.
6. Replace casing for the desktop. Replace panels and disc drive (if you have not already done so) for the laptop.
7. Plug power supplies in. AC adapter for the desktop. Battery and then AC Adapter for the laptop.
8. Start the computer and see if performance is better.

Is there a reason it only happens on COD, doesnt do it on Cs:s or any strat games?

ossi said:

Is there a reason it only happens on COD, doesnt do it on Cs:s or any strat games?

Could be that application is more graphics/cpu intensive and causes more heat to need to be expelled.

Just pulled my lappy apart. There is nearly no dust in there. I looked at the fan and there is the tiniest bit of dust. But to be honest this is the least amount of dust i have ever seen. Its got me stumped.

Download and install HWiNFO64 to check hardware temperatures. Run in sensor-only mode and see what your temperatures are at idle. Post those temperatures here. Then, run the following tests and read the temperatures and post here when the computer is under stress.


Use FurMark: VGA Stress Test, Graphics Card and GPU Stability Test, Burn-in Test, OpenGL Benchmark and GPU Temperature | oZone3D.Net and |MG| Video Memory Stress Test 1.7.116 Download to test your graphics card.


Run Hardware - Stress Test With Prime95 to determine any hardware problems.