BSOD, 0x116, 0x124 and 0x024 - Radom

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  1. Posts : 13
    Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit
       #1

    BSOD, 0x116, 0x124 and 0x024 - Radom


    Hey guys and girls:

    - x86 (32-bit) or x64 ? 64 Bit
    - the original installed OS on the system?
    Yes I installed a OEM W7 Home Premuim
    - an OEM or full retail version?
    Yes I installed a OEM W7 HomeP
    - OEM = came pre-installed on system
    No I installed
    - What is the age of system (hardware)?
    Less than 5 Months
    - What is the age of OS installation
    (have you re-installed the OS?) Less than 5 months

    Spec:

    Asus M5A78L-M LX (I upgraded BIOS to 801, after all the problems I pushed it to 901 but same thing)
    AMD Athlon II X3 455 3.3 --but upgraded to: AMD 960T Black Edition 3.0GHz (Stock configs + Freezer Pro 7 rev 2 cooler and Artic paste)
    HIS HD 6850 IceQ X Turbo 1GB GDDR5
    1x Kingston 4GB DDR3 1333MHz Memory Module Non-ECC CL9 1.5V - I added one more so 2 x Kingstons
    Powercool 550W 80plus Certified Efficienty PSU - Manufacture ID PSUPC550AUBA
    HANNS-G HH221DP
    Seagate 500GB 3.5" SATA-III 6Gb/s Barracuda Hard Drive 7200RPM

    I installed a new video card:
    HIS HD 6850 IceQ X Turbo 1GB GDDR5. I've done all possible drivers, driver cleaners etc. and I keep getting those blue screens. Any ideas guys? Could it be because of the new video card?

    Thanks for the help guys and girls.

    Sorry for spelling, this has gone on since the 31 and I'm starting to go crazy.

    EDIT***** This is the first time I've had BSOD, I previously had a PNY GTX 430, and never has this happend. So it must be the video card and maybe the PSU to give me these errors right?
    Last edited by 2danny9; 02 Jun 2012 at 09:17. Reason: spelling etc.
      My Computer


  2. Posts : 13
    Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit
    Thread Starter
       #2

    What happens is, I'm using the PC, the screen either goes black and reboots or go blue with vertical lines or white with vertical lines.

    Then I get those BSOD, I have no clue what going on, I decided to be the build your own PC, I wish I hand't, sure you pay more money for pre builds but its no where near the hassle i've gotten.

    Sorry people pf W7 forums.
      My Computer


  3. Posts : 11,269
    Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit
       #3

    Your oldest 0x24 crash indicates hard disk problems. This could mean hard disk corruption, bad sectors, a failing hard disk, Windows files or registry corruption, viruses, or memory problems.
    • If you are overclocking any hardware, please stop.

    • Run Disk Check with both boxes checked for all HDDs and with Automatically fix file system errors checked for all SSDs. Post back your logs for the checks after finding them using Check Disk (chkdsk) - Read Event Viewer Log (you may need to search for wininit instead of chkdsk).
      For any drives that do not give the message:
      Windows has checked the file system and found no problems
      run disk check again as above. In other words, if it says:
      Windows has made corrections to the file system
      after running the disk check, run the disk check again.

    • Run the short and long tests with SeaTools for HDDs.
    • If you have an SSD, make sure the following are up to date:
      • SSD firmware
      • BIOS Version
      • Chipset Drivers
      • Hard disk controller drivers/SATA drivers
      • If you have a Marvell IDE ATA/ATAPI device, uninstall it in device manager and see if the system performs better.


    • Check Windows for corruption. Run SFC /SCANNOW Command - System File Checker up to three times to fix all errors with a restart in between each. Post back if it continues to show errors after a fourth run or if the first run comes back with no integrity violations. Use OPTION THREE of SFC /SCANNOW Command - System File Checker to provide us with the sfcdetails.txt file if errors occur.

    • Download and install Malwarebytes, update it, do not start the free trial, and then run a full scan. Also run a full scan with your antivirus software installed on your system. If you do not have antivirus software installed, see the Good and Free system security combination. for better security steps and scanning tools. Make sure to update the security software before running the full scan.

    • Run the boot version of Memtest86+ paying close attention to Parts 2 and 3 of the tutorial. Also, in case Memtest86+ misses anything and comes up with no errors, run the extended version of the Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool for at least five passes. These you may want to run overnight since they take a long time to complete (run them an hour before bed each of the next two nights and check before going to sleep that they are still running).
         Warning
      Before you proceed with the following, answer these two questions: Are you still under warranty? Does your warranty allow you to open up the machine to check hardware? If you are unsure of the answers to these questions, contact your system manufacturer. WARNING: The steps that follow can void your warranty!!!

      For Part 3: If You Have Errors: If you swap any memory components, follow these steps for ESD safety:
      1. Shut down and turn off your computer.
      2. Unplug all power supplies to the computer (AC Power then battery for laptops, AC power for desktops)
      3. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to close the circuit and ensure all power drains from components.
      4. Make sure you are grounded by using proper grounding techniques, i.e. work on an anti-static workbench, anti-static desk, or an anti-static pad. Hold something metallic while touching it to the anti-static surface, or use an anti-static wristband to attach to the anti-static material while working. If you do not have an anti-static workbench, desk, or pad, you can use your computer tower/case by finding a metal hold in it, such as a drive bay.

      Once these steps have been followed, it is safe to remove and replace components within your computer.



    There are other steps for the other two BugCheck codes you received, but we should worry about those later.
      My Computer


  4. Posts : 13
    Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit
    Thread Starter
       #4

    writhziden said:
    Your oldest 0x24 crash indicates hard disk problems. This could mean hard disk corruption, bad sectors, a failing hard disk, Windows files or registry corruption, viruses, or memory problems.
    • If you are overclocking any hardware, please stop.
    • Run Disk Check with both boxes checked for all HDDs and with Automatically fix file system errors checked for all SSDs. Post back your logs for the checks after finding them using Check Disk (chkdsk) - Read Event Viewer Log (you may need to search for wininit instead of chkdsk).
      For any drives that do not give the message:
      Windows has checked the file system and found no problems
      run disk check again as above. In other words, if it says:
      Windows has made corrections to the file system
      after running the disk check, run the disk check again.
    • Run the short and long tests with SeaTools for HDDs.
    • If you have an SSD, make sure the following are up to date:
      • SSD firmware
      • BIOS Version
      • Chipset Drivers
      • Hard disk controller drivers/SATA drivers
      • If you have a Marvell IDE ATA/ATAPI device, uninstall it in device manager and see if the system performs better.

    • Check Windows for corruption. Run SFC /SCANNOW Command - System File Checker up to three times to fix all errors with a restart in between each. Post back if it continues to show errors after a fourth run or if the first run comes back with no integrity violations. Use OPTION THREE of SFC /SCANNOW Command - System File Checker to provide us with the sfcdetails.txt file if errors occur.
    • Download and install Malwarebytes, update it, do not start the free trial, and then run a full scan. Also run a full scan with your antivirus software installed on your system. If you do not have antivirus software installed, see the Good and Free system security combination. for better security steps and scanning tools. Make sure to update the security software before running the full scan.
    • Run the boot version of Memtest86+ paying close attention to Parts 2 and 3 of the tutorial. Also, in case Memtest86+ misses anything and comes up with no errors, run the extended version of the Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool for at least five passes. These you may want to run overnight since they take a long time to complete (run them an hour before bed each of the next two nights and check before going to sleep that they are still running).
         Warning
      Before you proceed with the following, answer these two questions: Are you still under warranty? Does your warranty allow you to open up the machine to check hardware? If you are unsure of the answers to these questions, contact your system manufacturer. WARNING: The steps that follow can void your warranty!!!

      For Part 3: If You Have Errors: If you swap any memory components, follow these steps for ESD safety:
      1. Shut down and turn off your computer.
      2. Unplug all power supplies to the computer (AC Power then battery for laptops, AC power for desktops)
      3. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to close the circuit and ensure all power drains from components.
      4. Make sure you are grounded by using proper grounding techniques, i.e. work on an anti-static workbench, anti-static desk, or an anti-static pad. Hold something metallic while touching it to the anti-static surface, or use an anti-static wristband to attach to the anti-static material while working. If you do not have an anti-static workbench, desk, or pad, you can use your computer tower/case by finding a metal hold in it, such as a drive bay.

      Once these steps have been followed, it is safe to remove and replace components within your computer.



    There are other steps for the other two BugCheck codes you received, but we should worry about those later.
    Hi writhziden,

    I've done the following:


    • *Seatools: Passed both Long and Short Tests
    • NO SDD
    • NO OVERCLOCKING HAS BEEN DONE - STOCK CLOCKS ONLY.
    • I've ran check disk twice, going to do it twice more, so far I think it has been OK, I shall search for the logs. (wininit).
    • Already had Malwarebytes (been using them for 3/4 years now), a quick scan one a week
    • I did Memtest for 4 passes and also windows memory test, both came up clean.

    So pretty much done I guess, I have ordered a new OCZ PSU, these errors came up with the video card I'm sure off! However, I'm unsure if it is the power, video card or both. My PSU is a really cheap 550W thing, that can bearly reach what is sated anyway! It is definetly not the PCI-E as I've stuck in my old reliable GT 430 and no BSOD, errors etc. great!!

    Where do we go on from here?

    Thanks for the response,

    Daniel
      My Computer


  5. Posts : 1,413
    Windows 7 Home Premium x64
       #5

    To get a generic idea of what your voltages are doing, you can install HWMonitor(reg not PRO). Run some stress tests, such as Prime95 and Furmark. Post back the screens from HWMonitor after some testing, along with the make/model of your PSU.
      My Computer


  6. Posts : 13
    Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit
    Thread Starter
       #6

    James7679 said:
    To get a generic idea of what your voltages are doing, you can install HWMonitor(reg not PRO). Run some stress tests, such as Prime95 and Furmark. Post back the screens from HWMonitor after some testing, along with the make/model of your PSU.
    The minimum voltage for 12V should be between 11.5 to 12.4 (somoewhere there right)?

    So these voltages to low aren't they? I'm worried, glad my PSU arrives tomorrow. (from scan).
      My Computer


  7. Posts : 1,413
    Windows 7 Home Premium x64
       #7

    You are correct Daniel, on both accounts. I would stop using the PC until you get the new PSU installed. It is possible for there to be other problems that cause these drops, but most often, it is the PSU. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
      My Computer


  8. Posts : 13
    Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit
    Thread Starter
       #8

    Thanks for the reply James7679


    James7679 said:
    You are correct Daniel, on both accounts. I would stop using the PC until you get the new PSU installed. It is possible for there to be other problems that cause these drops, but most often, it is the PSU. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

    Hiya James7679,

    Bloody hell!! I removed from the PSU from the PC all together!

    I can't believe that the PSU was doing that. Are these correct values correct? Never again shall I buy a cheap non-branded PSU. Corsair and OCZ are on my list for ever.

    I will update tomorrow with a new print screen of the new voltages etc. with the new PSU, it’s a:

    OCZ ZS 550W Series

    Link of where I bought it from:

    OCZ ZS Series 550W 80 Plus Bronze Power Supply (PSU) - OCZ-ZS550W-UK - Scan.co.uk

    Also, the old Powercool PSU did make a crap load of noise.

    James, as the tests and scans how shown up no errors, is it safe to assume that this PSU hasn't gone and done something wrong? I still have warranty but....


    I hope this fixes the random reboots (it must be because of the video card not drawing enough power - but then why on earth would I be able to play Dirt 3/Sniper all max/high for a hour or two and not suffer?).

    Many thanks both James and writhziden and anyone else,

    Daniel
      My Computer


  9. Posts : 1,413
    Windows 7 Home Premium x64
       #9

    2danny9 said:
    I can't believe that the PSU was doing that. Are these correct values correct?
    I have never found that HWMonitor was wrong to the extent that it would indicate such a loss.

    2danny9 said:
    Never again shall I buy a cheap non-branded PSU. Corsair and OCZ are on my list for ever.
    The PSU is the "heart", if you will, of the PC. It delivers the power necessary to run all of the components in the PC. A cheaply made, or failing PSU can present with anything from sporadic crashing all the way to a no boot. NEVER use a cheap PSU.

    2danny9 said:
    I will update tomorrow with a new print screen of the new voltages etc. with the new PSU, it’s a:

    OCZ ZS 550W Series

    Link of where I bought it from:

    OCZ ZS Series 550W 80 Plus Bronze Power Supply (PSU) - OCZ-ZS550W-UK - Scan.co.uk

    Also, the old Powercool PSU did make a crap load of noise.
    Good PSU, yes, please update with stress tests, temps and voltages after putting in the new PSU.

    2danny9 said:
    James, as the tests and scans how shown up no errors, is it safe to assume that this PSU hasn't gone and done something wrong? I still have warranty but....
    Probably, but it's best to wait until the new PSU finds it's way in your build before you get too comfortable.


    2danny9 said:
    I hope this fixes the random reboots (it must be because of the video card not drawing enough power - but then why on earth would I be able to play Dirt 3/Sniper all max/high for a hour or two and not suffer?).

    Many thanks both James and writhziden and anyone else,

    Daniel
    If you have failing capacitor(s), they could be okay until the temps start to rise, then the caps swell. When that happens, the PSU will fail.

    And, no worries. Thank us when the problem is gone.
      My Computer


  10. Posts : 11,269
    Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit
       #10

    You're welcome.

    As James said, it is difficult to know 100% for sure that the PSU is at fault for the drops. PSU debugging via internet is among the most difficult of hardware. The motherboard is the other most difficult. Both result in strange behavior that can make things appear related to other hardware. Without being an electrical engineer or electronics expert, the only surefire way I know of to test these components is to swap out parts and see whether they make a difference.
      My Computer


 
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