BSOD When playing games - Driver related.

That does sound fairly conclusive, but it is difficult to know for sure given the small amount of time that has passed with adequate cooling. Let us know after you have had a chance to test more (by doing your normal routine with better cooling) whether that does solve the problem.

Also, when is the last time you removed dust from the system?

Dust Removal:

To remove dust, follow the subsequent general procedure. If you have a desktop bought from Dell, HP, Sony, Lenovo, etc. make sure removing the desktop casing will not void your warranty first. Call the company if you are still under warranty and ask if it is okay to remove the casing and blow dust out. The procedure described is fine for laptops; just make sure no stickers are on panels saying if you remove the panel it will void the warranty.

1. Shut down and turn off your computer.
2. Unplug all power supplies to the computer (AC Power then battery for laptops, AC power for desktops)
3. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to close the circuit and ensure all power drains from components.
4. Remove the casing for a desktop, or remove any screwed on panels and disc drives for laptops.
5. Blow out the dust inside by using a can of compressed air or a low pressure compressor. You will want to put the computer on a desk or table so you can maintain the can in an upright position if using a can of air. Blow into all crevices on the motherboard, heat sinks, cards, modules, etc. for a desktop. Blow into vents, opened panels, disc drive areas, USB ports, and the keyboard if it is a laptop. You may also want to blow inside the disc drive by replacing the drive to the laptop, starting the computer, opening the drive, and then turning off the computer and removing all power as described above including the 30 second power button step. For a desktop, you may also want to blow inside the disc drive by starting the computer, opening the drive, and then turning off the computer and removing all power as described above including the 30 second power button step.
6. Replace casing for the desktop. Replace panels and disc drive (if you have not already done so) for the laptop.
7. Plug power supplies in. AC adapter for the desktop. Battery and then AC Adapter for the laptop.
8. Start the computer and see if performance is better.

Easier Laptop steps:

1. Get a can of compressed air...
2. Shut down and turn off your system...
3. Unplug the system from any docking stations...
4. Remove the AC Adapter and then remove the battery...
5. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to ensure all power is drained from the components. This closes the circuit and allows any remaining power to dissipate; it also clears the temporary memory of corruption and resets hardware/software connections. No permanent changes are made to the system doing this step...
6. Use the can of compressed air to blow into every vent, crevice, keyboard key, USB port, VGA/monitor port, etc...
7. Replace the battery and then plug in the AC Adapter...
8. Replace the docking station...
9. See how the system runs after doing all these steps...

   Warning

WARNING: Never use a vacuum cleaner or hair drier to clean dust out of your system!!

Do you have the latest version of SpeedFan installed? I see a very old driver from 1996 installed that may cause conflicts even on XP.

Also, did you install XP fresh after removing Windows 7?

One of your crashes is pointing to your HD Audio driver as the cause. Re-install/update your Realtek HD Audio drivers.


I am wondering about a possible IMU failure to your processor. What RAM configuration are you running?

Hi Mike ! Thaanks for the reply.

Well im running version 4.46 for speedfan, and wich driver is from 1996, maybe I can update it or something.

Yes, I installed XP after deleting EVERYTHIGN from the harddrive, fresh install.

I also reinstalled a "more appropiate" driver version for my sound card ( Integrated Realtek ALC888S Audio ) Minutes later after having those BSODs, no more BSODs so far.

Uhm, about my RAM configuration, well idk what are you asking precisely for, but I use Two 1GB DDR2 RAM Sticks (SAMSUNG) @ 333 MHz.

Alright, just wanted to make sure the 512 MB RAM was removed. Sounds good. I'd still like a little more info about the RAM config, though:

Download and install CPU-Z and Upload screenshots of the CPU, Mainboard, Memory, and SPD tabs. In the SPD tab, upload an image of each slot.

Let us know how things go after a few days with the sound card drivers.

Hi Mike, here are my CPU-Z screenies !

*Attached* The 2nd slot for the SPD tab is EXACTLY the same, except for the Serial number,
BTW what can I do about the old driver thingy ?

From what I was told, that old driver does not typically cause problems, so leave it for now.

You need to upload an image of the other slots under the SPD tab.

Here, lol I told you it was the same :P

No crashes so far.

Good news on stability. I just wanted to check the Week/Year to make sure they matched. Many users think the RAM is the same even if it is bought/manufactured at different times. Methods change in manufacturing that can sometimes cause conflicts if RAM is bought at different times, so I always like to make sure. Yours looks good! :)

Thats good news, and good news here too, no BSODs so far, if things continue as this I think I will mark the thread as solved

Thanks for the help Mike.