BSOD - whocrashed points to cdd.dll and kernel

jamestcoop · 21 Aug 2013

Blue screens have returned. The main issue I am having is that the computer just refuses to boot up. This morning I turned the power to On and it sat at a black screen for almost a full hour before booting up. I checked and am running the latest version BIOS for my motherboard.

I've attached a new SF Diagnostic Tool report from today. Driver Verifier was enabled for at least the most recent crash included in this report.

Thank you all for your help...it is starting to sound like it is a hardware issue

jamestcoop · 26 Aug 2013

Problems still persist. If the computer is in sleep mode for a long time (overnight is when I usually notice it) it will not come out of sleep mode. Using ctrl/alt/del or winkey macros does not work neither does pressing the reset button. I usually have to power off the power supply and unplug for a while. Some times I even remove the cmos battery for a few minutes to reset that as well. Usually after doing that, replugging the battery and power cord, turning on the psu and then hitting the power button it will sit at a black screen for a while (30 seconds to a couple minutes, but up to an hour of black screen) and then it will come on and boot up.

If it is the motherboard, does that mean I need a whole new pc or can I replace the mobo (and probably cpu) and just plug that into what else I have? That's probably not even a question you all can answer without me looking up a ton of compatibility charts, is it?

Thanks again for everything

YoYo155 · 26 Aug 2013

Hey sorry to hear that.
Have a look at the motherboard and search for any "bad caps", bulky, leaking bloated capacitors.

i.e

ICIT2LOL · 26 Aug 2013

As YoYo says mate and what did the readings on the PSU come back as? Don'tforget correct volts does not necessarily mean correct amps!
As for the board James depends on whether youwant to stay with AMD or switch to Intel as that processor was released in 2009 makes it reasonably older tech plus it seems that it only supports 1333 MHz RAM.

AMD Athlon II X4 620 - ADX620WFK42GI / ADX620WFGIBOX

Personally if it were me and I could afford it I would update to a more recent set up I prefer Intel myself but the choice is yours.

jamestcoop · 01 Sep 2013

Looking closely at the motherboard and none of the component parts (capacitors/etc) look to be in bad shape, bulging, broken, cracked, leaking or in any other way damaged.

I found a non-vip version of the psu check procedure (here PSU - Test DC Output Voltage) and was able to test a few of the connections and they were showing as about right (12.2-12.4 V molex yellow wire to red/+ multimeter probe and about 5V for the molex red wire to red/+ probe).

The 24-pin motherboard power connector I am unsure how to test. The instructions indicate the computer should be powered on when doing these tests but I can't fit my multimeter probe into the same pin slots while the wire is connected--there just isn't enough room for both to be in the same pin slot simultaneously.

I am not comfortable removing the wire from the slot to insert the multimeter probe especially while the computer is powered on so I'm not totally sure how to complete this test to make sure the voltages going to the mobo are correct.

Any suggestions? What do you think of this tutorial here: How To Manually Test a Power Supply With a Multimeter ? It recommends unplugging everything connected to the psu inside the tower (with the power off and plug pulled from the psu) and then plugging the psu back in and checking the cables one at a time.

This won't tell me anything about the motherboard but will tell me if the psu is sending the correct voltages through the appropriate cables, right?

I'm going to power down now and try this test. At least that way I can rule out the psu if the voltages are within tolerances from this guide: https://www.sevenforums.com/attachmen...-voltages1.png

jamestcoop · 01 Sep 2013

Ok I ran the PSU tests and there were some readings that are incorrect. Comparing charts from here PSU - Test DC Output Voltage and here 24 pin Motherboard Power Connector Pinout here were the issues I found:

Gray Pin 8 should be 5.09 V my reading was 0.30 V
I don't have a White wire Pin 20 but that appears to be optional from the pinout spec

Also, my Blue Pin 14 is reading at -11.38 V. The pinout spec from the About article shows -12V but the SevenForums post says it should be positive 11.34. I am assuming this was just an oversight on the forum poster about the reading being plus or minus. Is that correct?

Is there a way to double check the Gray Pin 8 reading? Where do I go from here? I would think first replace the cord or even the gray wire itself and then retest it and if it is still reading wrong then replace the PSU. What do you all think? As always, and and all help is greatly appreciated!

ICIT2LOL · 01 Sep 2013

James in the jump start tutorial it shows you how you can jump start the PSU by inserting a paper clip into the green and any black socket usually next to it to get the PSU running - you don't need to leave it plugged into the board and push the power button that is what the green lead is connected to in normal use and is a momentary thing but ass you have the 24 pin out that will not happen so you need to keep the paper clip inserted. .

It is perfectly safe and you will be able to read the different socket voltages along that 24 pin connector one by one using just one of the black sockets as a ground for the voltages you are testing for. The voltages are set out as in the other tutorial and in here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_s...unit_(computer) Make a note of the volts as you go and you can compare them with each other - they should read all the same within a quite fine tolerance.

Now the grey cable you were concerned about you can see is just an indicator socket - from that Wiki link it tells you that the power to the other sockets has either not been reached or is about to leave correct voltages and I am taking that as something is failing and therefore the correct volts are not going to be reached - I stand to be corrected of course.

Now you can leave that paper clip in and the PSU running and then test the six pin to the GPU cable and also the ATX cable in fact any cables that are plugged into the board. They are not dangerous voltages unless you connect different coloured sockets ie 12v socket to the 3.3v socket then you may get burnt.

Having said that if you connect any black to black with the meter set to resistance then it should show a dead short or zero ohms. If it doesn't it indicates a possible fault in the grounding system in the PSU and possibly to the board.

You seem very apprehensive in doing this and if you are really unsure take it to a technician but in any case DO NOT attempt to disassemble that PSU under any circumstances.

jamestcoop · 02 Sep 2013

So I unplugged everything except the psu and I shorted the power-on green wire to the black ground and the fan came on after turning on the power switch on the psu. I tested the 20+4 motherboard main connector and everything was fine except the 2 issues I listed above (but we can rule out the white cable since that is optional).

Can you tell me more about the Gray Pin 8 reading?

I am having a hard time finding more information about what these voltages mean. Is this indicative of a bad psu? How would I know that/where can I learn more about that?

This being labor day today would be a good day to buy a new psu if you all think that is the problem...

ICIT2LOL · 03 Sep 2013

Ok James that grey pin if you look at the Wiki link it shows it is the poweron is good.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply_unit_(computer)If you click on the small blue ref in this link (see pic) it will take you tothis http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_Good_Signal

Now if that is not showing any volts after the machine has been on for longenough for the other volts to build up as you showed then something is wrong.See page 2 in this ref / link go down to the Power on section it says it allreally http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-specifications-atx-reference,3061-2.html

So maybe you are looking at a new PSU .

Now without knowing what you have already I would suggest a decent brandmate as the cheap stuff is just that. My personal preferences are for CorsairPSU's and depending on what you use the computer for.
Presuming and I know I shouldn't you game a bit one of the Corsairs with at least 500watts better 650 and the model I now is particularly good is the HX 650 it is part modular which means you get a main lead/s and some extra plug in modular leads to use as you want them. But it is not cheap see this
Newegg.com - Computer Hardware, Power Supplies, Power Supplies, Corsair there are others as well.

Anyway in a way I hope this is the cause of your problems and looking at that info on the grey pin it seems that way. But before you do anything I would wait to see what anyone else thinks I would hate to ell you to get a new PSU and the problem not go away.

jamestcoop · 05 Sep 2013

Well, I got my hands on a working PSU (a 750W Antec that is pretty much brand new). I put it in my system and booted up. Everything looks good and is running fine.

I tried running a game (Borderlands 2) while listening to a radio program and a few minutes into playing it did another BSOD.

I didn't have Driver Verifier on so I can't get any specifics but WhoCrashed gave this report (different than before):

On Thu 9/5/2013 8:46:08 PM GMT your computer crashed
crash dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\090513-7566-01.dmp
This was probably caused by the following module: dxgmms1.sys (dxgmms1+0x21133)
Bugcheck code: 0x1000007E (0xFFFFFFFFC0000005, 0xFFFFF880040ED133, 0xFFFFF880045A9698, 0xFFFFF880045A8EF0)
Error: SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED_M
file path: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\dxgmms1.sys
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: DirectX Graphics MMS
Bug check description: This indicates that a system thread generated an exception which the error handler did not catch.
This appears to be a typical software driver bug and is not likely to be caused by a hardware problem.
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver on your system that cannot be identified at this time.

Any ideas what this might mean? Maybe I need to change BIOS settings or something to adjust the system for the new PSU?