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#91
I agree with Britton best let Harry have a look but the fact that it is slipping in and out is suggestive to me that a component inside is heating up losing contact then cooling and contact made again.
I agree with Britton best let Harry have a look but the fact that it is slipping in and out is suggestive to me that a component inside is heating up losing contact then cooling and contact made again.
Alright well I'll see what he says and then go from there. I got my psu from newegg so I should be able to rma it and get a new one. Hopefully anyways.
Ok good news, I'm borrowing a friends old stock psu that is in good condition. I had to unplug my nvidia card cause the psu can't handle too many watts. I'll post back if the problems stop or not.
Ok bad news. Just got a blue screen. Here is the dump. My psu and gpu were out when this happened, keep that in mind.
Edit: Got another bsod, this time when I went to restart my computer, I got this in boot (in the picture). I restarted my computer again and it's back to normal. Also I've noticed since I've replaced the psu, when starting up windows, at the login screen mainly, the volume is really distorted and skips a lot. Also the text was a little off.
Maybe you might try this out PSU - Jump Start
The volts should be within +/- 5% of the stated volts ie. +12v 3.3v and 5v I can't find the reference I want as I am away from home but if I find it I shall post.
PS http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/...ence,3061.html
Alright well all I have hooked up now is my keyboard, mouse, headset, monitor, cpu fan, case fan, cpu, harddrive, and motherboard. I think it's a 330w psu I'm not sure though. These are two recent bsods I've gotten.
Last edited by moieu; 27 Dec 2013 at 15:30.
Ok mate now to check the wattage on the PSU look at the sticker on the side and in particular at the +12v rails. See the pic (only an example) and to work out the wattage and particularly the +12v rails do some simple maths = volts X amps = watts.
The other rails are important but because these days computer are relying more on the 12v rail it is the most important one to look for when buying for example.
Ok I did what you said, it's a 350w psu.
Also since I re-opened up my case and took 1 stick of ram out, and unplugged my cd/dvd drive, I haven't had any problems. So I'm thinking it was going over the wattage.
A 350W PSU has about as much chance of powering a modern motherboard and accessories as a chocolate teapot.
I would suggest - other factors notwithstanding - a minimum specification of 550W RMS.
Many suppliers overstate their true capabilities, being aware that consumers are unlikely to know the true requirements, and to make allowance for such things as efficiency.
So far as I am aware, no real desktop system has been stable with less since the advent of the Pentium5.
Notebooks are a whole different ballgame - and one can have even more fun specifying PSU's for same