Asus K53E Laptop with 0x00000124 BSOD

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  1. Posts : 28
    Winds 7 Home Premium 64bit
    Thread Starter
       #31

    I'll have a look around the memory more... I'll post these just in case too:
    Top




    Bottom


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  2. Posts : 28
    Winds 7 Home Premium 64bit
    Thread Starter
       #32

    Ugh.. Everything that's empty looks like it has nicely melted pillows of solder paste. I can't find a single one that looks like a "cold solder" or looks like it may have been flattened in the past.... This is really frustrating. Maybe I should check the little tiny power button board again just for s&g.

    And I know like you said, there doesn't necessarily have to be a box around where it was... but every other tiny little part has one, as well as the other 3 of these things, and they're all the same size border too!
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  3. Posts : 24,479
    Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
       #33

    You are indeed persistent, like I would be with something like this. I would suggest getting a fairly decent magnifying glass and go over it very slowly and methodically. You will be able to see what normal solder points look like better and could recognize a separated one easier.

    I was testing a new board once and saw a puff of smoke from it. I looked with my naked eye and saw nothing. Using a 8X jeweler's loupe I found the problem. A copper trace on the board had burnt away and burnt off the varnish coating. The burn mark was only about 1mm in length. Looking further I found several burned off places much bigger. It was a used board I was trying to make a useable system with so not much was lost.
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  4. Posts : 28
    Winds 7 Home Premium 64bit
    Thread Starter
       #34

    Hold the presses!!

    So this is a little aux board, it's got 2 USB ports and headphone/mic jacks. Notice how one USB port has been pushed in, broken?


    Look at the back side:



    I spy a rectangular outline... and some other broken stuff... This thing connects to the MB with a flat ribbon cable. Any chance that somehow this would cause problems? I mean, USB does handle power...
    And look, another P15 chip!

    So... what do we think?
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  5. Posts : 28
    Winds 7 Home Premium 64bit
    Thread Starter
       #35

    Or, do you think I could put the laptop back together without this board and cable and it'd work?
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  6. Posts : 24,479
    Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
       #36

    Are these two things broken too?

    Attachment 299624

    You could try running it without this sisterboard and see what shakes. You can't break it I guess.
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  7. Posts : 28
    Winds 7 Home Premium 64bit
    Thread Starter
       #37

    Yes, those two things are also broken. I've since taken them completely off the board. Unfortunate I already took the HSF and all off. I'll have to get some thermal paste. I'm wondering if it'd do any damage to try without it. That board can be had for about $10 shipped or less. Might be worth replacing it first before I possible mess something else up? I guess I'm just not sure if the system would operate without the sister board. Surely it shouldn't fry anything... unless the MB is using that board for a circuit, but that just seems like a stupid design...
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  8. Posts : 28
    Winds 7 Home Premium 64bit
    Thread Starter
       #38

    I guess the real question though... would those damaged chips on the sister board cause all the problems? It doesn't seem like it'd have anything to do with it, but then again, maybe all it takes is a short or something somewhere to maybe introduce noise or spikes elsewhere...
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  9. Posts : 24,479
    Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
       #39

    Never run a CPU without paste! It can heat up much more and fast without it.

    Well, I don't know how boards are "wired" up but there are so many components there and who knows what depends on another? Those broken part could have shorted something else out, or perhaps just removing the broken part would let it sort of work, it may not have any USB functions. Lotsa maybes to consider and I have no answers to them.
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  10. Posts : 4,161
    Windows 7 Pro-x64
       #40

    Hey, great detective work! Looks like you found it.

    That board looks like it carries the audio too. It might run without it but I wouldn't bet on it. The two USB ports look like they are independent so if you can isolate the broken one, it may work. The critical part is to make sure the port connections and traces aren't shorting. There's 5v at the port and the signal goes straight to the controller (Hub). The hub is probably part of the SouthBridge.

    I would push that insulator back through the port and put a piece of tape over the opening. Then move the lose pieces so the contacts aren't shorting. Check the board for torn traces that might short too. Especially at the large vertical pins at the back of the port. (See the one next to it.)
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