BSOD Recently Started. System Not Saving Dump Files Though Activated

We get a better look if you use the snipping tool. Just click start and type snipping tool in the search box. For the time being you can right click the snipping tool entry and pin to task bar and it will be there. When you are through just unpin it if you want. Or type snipping tool each time. You can also press print screen, open paint and push paste and save to somewhere you know either as a JPEG or PNG Click the paperclip icon at the top and browse to the image and select it, push upload and close it once it uploads. Then the paperclip till have it and you can insert it wherever you want in a post. At this point, I am suspect of your power supply. The +12V is the bare minimum to meet ATX standards at idle. If it falls below that you will have problems. You shouldn't have a problem starting the computer. Next time you start your computer, download and install CPUZ and post screenshots of the CPU tab, The mainboard tab the Memory tab and the SPD tab. The SPD tab has a selection in the top left where you can select each Dimm Slot. I only need the slots that are populated. Also, go into BIOS when you can and take note of what your sata controller is set to (IDS, AHCI, or Raid) also check and see what your ram timings, frequency and voltage is. Let me know but write them down, you will probably need them shortly. On the ram timings, I only need the first 4. They should read something like 9-9-9-24 1T. The 1T should be listed as command rate or CR

Everything looks OK as best as I can tell. When you get into BIOS just make sure your Dram Voltage is set at 1.5V. Also, if you would, look at your voltages again and tell me what the same ones are. +12V, +5V and +3.3 Volts. Please do not be overclocked when we are trying to diagnose the computer. Set everything to default values. Leave the ram as is, except for setting the Voltage. Don't worry about the time issue, whenever you have the time is OK. I plan to be right here.

1ST I'd like to know from your motherboard manual what the green light flashing means. And what lights should be on when the computer is off.. If that is not normal and I assume it's not, it would indicate to me that the power supply is malfunctioning. However, please read your manual and see exactly what that indicates.

In the US we typically use 115-120V power. I believe in Europe the standard is 220 V. Most modern power supplies can sense which voltage they receive and automatically change to that type. It is not real common you can change it yourself, but with some brands you can. From what I can find right now about your PSU is that they are no longer in business, but I read more than 1 review that said when it went out it took the motherboard and some other components with it. Assuming the motherboard lights are abnormal and you have to turn the switch to 220V to get it to put out 120V and the fact that your +12V is at the very bottom of the acceptable range, I would think the Power Supply is gone or in the process of going.

As far as replacements go, I always say that you should never try to save money on a power supply, as it is the heart of your system. Every component in your system depends on a power supply and they can go out and take other components with them. The better brands have safeguards to keep that from happening. I always recommend, Seasonic, Corsair, Antec or XFX Power supplies. All are top of the line power supplies and will last you for quite a few years to come. I use Corsair or Seasonic. I currently have 4 Corsair PSUs powering other systems. All have been used in quite a few builds. Yes, they are a lot more expensive than the cheap no name brands, but are very well worth it. If you can afford it, I would buy one of those brands and get a modular one. A modular PSU allows you to use only the cables you need and make doing a clean build much much easier. Plus you will be able to use it in your next build if you buy a larger size than what you need. I always recommend buying a power supply that will, with my system maxed out use 60-70% of it's max output. That way the PSU will be quieter, run cooler and last much longer. Plus it allows room for upgrades if you decide to do them. The smallest PSU I own is 750 Watts and I imagine they will outlive me.

My personal opinion: If the blinking LED on your motherboard is abnormal and everything I discussed above is true. That PSU would be out of my system today and a new modular Seasonic or Corsair PSU would be on it's way. Yes, they are more expensive, but they are still cheaper than building a new system because the PSU I have goes out and takes everything out with it. Plus, your system is showing some age and I suspect you are considering another system in the near future. A quality PSU, of sufficient size, will be capable of using in your new system when you decide to build it. Again, that is my personal opinion, but I say that because what I would have saved by buying a cheap PSU would not pay for my motherboard, or CPU or my Graphics Card if it went out and took even one of them out. it's your money. Spend it however you like.

Also, if what I suspect is happening, the PSU could be the source of all your issues or at least a major part of them. Your PSU is putting out the bare minimum at idle and sounds to be very temperamental. if it decides at any point to drop the voltage too low the system will BSOD or shut down.

I am saying it seems like the PSU but that is not like I'm saying that is your problem. I am just saying it seems like that could be the problem. When you have to turn it to 220V to get it to put out 120V, that is not right. I would also run memtest86+ for 8 full passes or until you get an error. That will take quite a few hours, depending on your computer and ram. One of my other rigs has 8 GB of ram and it took about 9 Hours to run the full 8 Passes. This will help, but it needs to run 8 passes all at once. You mentioning the new ram makes me suspect of that also. Ram is better bought in complete sets because sets are tested to run well together. The slightest difference in modules can make a big difference. RAM - Test with Memtest86+ If you run the newest version, at the very start it will tell you to push certain keys for certain things, don't do it, just let it run. If you have trouble with it, run version 4.2, it's the same test as the newest version, just without some support for the very newest chipsets which you don't have.

If you do decide to buy a PSU, do not buy the cheapest one they have. The PSU is the heart of your system and can take out your whole computer if it goes bad. They are not made with the quality and safety of the top brands, which can be more expensive. I always recommend, Seasonic, Corsair, Antec or XFX. They are a lot more expensive but have safety features that will protect your equipment and will always put out what they claim to put out, which is not the case for many of the cheaper versions. Also consider a modular one. It costs a little more, but will make your build go much easier. You only connect the cables you actually need. The rest, just don't connect them and you won't be worried about how to hide them or what to do with them. Buy enough to power your system now and in the future. I always try to buy one that will only pull about 60-65% of it's max. It will run cooler, not strain and last much longer, as well as leave room for future upgrades.

Memtest was one of the initial group of tests you had asked me to run and I did so for 11 passes with no errors. I didn't capture screen shots or any of the other diagnostics from it though if I was supposed to.

I think I'll get a PSU to be safe as well. I do see the Corsair modular but am not clear on what other options are important/necessary. I'll sniff around on these boards to see if I can find out what else is important (Watts, Crossfile, SLI, etc.)?

Here is a good PSU Calculator eXtreme Power Supply Calculator Sorry about memtest, I guess I forgot you had already run it. Screenshots are not necessary. The test is fine as long as there were no errors. Modular is not necessary, just makes it easier on you. Add a little to the PSU calculation for upgrades and future builds.