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#1431
For those just starting off and those that simply look more for flavor 70/30 is the norm. For clearomizers the top coiled CE2-4 long wicked 1.6ml have always been problematic with dry hits unless you kept turning them upside down and turning them to keep the upper portion saturated when not having a full tank section. And once you had a good dry hit the wicks would show the brown spots from the burns.
The recent farse about formaldehyde was simply the nonsense of taking one of the older top coiled clearomizers and cranking things up higher then anyone would normally see just to intentionally burn the wick material so they could say: "see see there's..."! With the latest CE5 clearomizers on the other hand those are bottom coil and some wickless which should be seeing a smoother vape while I took one of those a vendor tossed in on an order and you could hardly get anything out of it.
At the same not all tanks are rosey either! The first DCT tanks were nothing but a disaster of leaks and soon dead cartimizers. They weren't well liked on the first Vamo V2 either! The second of those had a stainless threaded locking ring to keep the tank from leaking which it still did. Then the first VVV/VW mod to follow was the MVP2.0 having just bought the IClear 30, Vision Victory, and SMOK Trophy tanks to try out when getting away from the top coiled. All three failed while none leaked at putting out anything adequate for vapor. There was a serious lack of air flow. Then the second IClear 30 that came in the MVP2.0 kit went along with the first plus the other two to a friend's daughter being introduced to vaping to keep her from a smoking habit. By then some people were raving about the Viva Nova and Tumbler tanks Smoktech put out and I found that the Tumbler was going to work well for the under 10w crowd.
Yes it is different Derek. I find I like the Melo at 22watts. I bump it up occasionally just to experiment. I keep another flavor in the Nautilus and rotate back and forth. I also use the smallest air hole setting, just the opposite with the Nautilus. The air ring on the melo is really tight. I have to use both hands to adjust it.
Yep keep priming the nautilus and the coils will last allot longer,
I find the air hole I like best is 1 down from the largest,
Yea I assumed the symbol "P" was ohm not sure why they used a P though but 3.9 looks more like a U than a V
I just started doing the extra puff priming to force bubbles to exit the coil,
This one is on a week now and still going strong,
Flavors I wouldn't know I'm using a raspberry but with no boost so it's a slight taste already so it's easily missed after first using the juice,
I'll get back to you on this coil but it has promise some I only got a couple days out of them seems coil quality might be another issue ?
But I ultimately believe I was just burning them up by not priming them with extra puffs
Cheers.
Owe just put your finger over the air hole and puff to prime :)
No problem,
When I first got the tank the coil did last 2 weeks,
But that was using the default settings for the itaste 3.3 V and 6 watts
Dropping the nic I had to crank it up to get the throat hit Derek mentions is needed for me too I believe Paul says the same :)
Without priming it just burned them up
I have the Atlantis on the smallest opening too, Nautilus is usually wide open or the next one down.
I don't see myself dumping the Nautilus but I'll keep playing with this Atlantis a bit more.
The "P" is for Power which is measured in Watts. It is a "U" but it is the Voltage button, I guess they didn't like "V" or thought it would be misinterpreted for something else, maybe a down button?
I only have to prime a new coil myself, dry puffs and start on low volts/watts then increase to my sweet spot.
That's a good average for me too Doug, about a week or 10 days if I stretch it. If I am using higher watts they don't last as long for me.