New
#11
Here's an example of how I "rescued" an HP desktop I bought new in 2005, I think.
https://www.sevenforums.com/overclock...ml#post1933836
The only things left from the original are CD/R/RW and the case.
Here's an example of how I "rescued" an HP desktop I bought new in 2005, I think.
https://www.sevenforums.com/overclock...ml#post1933836
The only things left from the original are CD/R/RW and the case.
Indeed, old and/or slow HDDs can bottleneck a computer very badly. I've noticed this most prominently when I'm shuttling large files between my XP machine and other computers like my primary desktop (the one in my system specs) or the home server which are all equipped with SATA2/3 HDDs, even with gigabit networking throughout the connection the IDE HDDs on my XP machine bottleneck transfer rates badly.
For what the computer does though which is basically Adobe Illustrator and some office work, as well as other tasks that my primary computer would be simply overkill for (Skype), it serves that capacity very adequately and I'm personally happy with how well it's standing the test of time.
Certainly my experience is only a personal one and I do not deny the fact that IDE HDDs are very slow by today's standards, but depending on what the OP wants to do on his computer there still remains the possibility of that computer being useful.
I may be wrong on the numbers. I think the last, greatest IDE spec was 150MBs while the first SATA spec was 1.5GBs, 10 times faster. Many older drives were also of the 5400RPM variety too.
The fastest PATA connection that I recall was Ultra ATA 133 (133MB/s).
The original SATA was 1.5Gb/s (small b indicates bits, capital B, bytes), or 187.5MB/s.
No factor of 10, but still significant. 6Gb SATA (sometimes called SATA3) would be at 750GB/s, faster than the sustained read of a good SSD.
I'm a little surprised to see that the motherboard has a 24 pin ATX connector plus a 4 pin CPU +12V connector. It might even support an up-to-date motherboard, although I'd bet it too weak to support a husky graphics card, even if it had the PCI-E power connectors (I expect that it does not).
With PATA peripherals, an AGP graphics card, and DDR memory, there's not much to save in the box.
Serial ATA - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
You are correct Bob. I looked it up instead of using my memory.
Other than being a hideously ugly case, you could re-use it but I would go from scratch. :) I have an old Sony VGC-RB30 I thought about gutting for the case. I like the flip doors on it. It's still being used for a couple of programs and to drive a wide body printer so I can't let it go just yet.
Hi there
I still think the best bang for buck by quite a margin would be to get a new PC without a monitor -- it would have a proper PSU in it - all the cables and connectors would be easily accessible rather than in the old days where a case was often on the floor with USB ports / Audio ports and even monitor . video ports stuck at the back and inconvenient to access.
Then get a super dooper decently large LCD monitor preferably at least 28 inch (with good resolution - HDMI HD quality at a MINIMUM spec), possibly a better graphic card than the generally built in one -- these can be turned off in the BIOS if you use your own card, and a 250GB Samsung 840 SSD for the OS and apps.
This lot will probably perform better than what you might end up with yourself, would certainly be CHEAPER -- you could buy yourself a TABLET or another LAPTOP with the money you have saved compared with the original build, and probably look a much more professional job. -- I'm not doubting your Engineering skills but from what I've seen of most people's builds - while they work they usually look like something of the "caricature" of the absent minded inventor / professor with wires etc all over the place .
These days saving hard earned money IMO is certainly well worth while - and if the end result is likely to be BETTER AND CHEAPER then I'd go for it and use the money saved on buying something else you want.
I've built as I said before - loads of rigs in my time and people seem to think I'm quite a neat Engineer too but these days unless I really needed a particular machine for a very specialized one off type of application there is NO way where I could build my own rig cheaper than what I could get commercially including some extra components for adding to the commercial build. Modern manufacturing has cut the cost of these machines to way below anything a single build could do.
If an old timer Engineer like me is advising you to go for a pre-built system then it must say something -- I was bought up in the days where most shop bought computers were expensive and performed very poorly -- then it was a "No brainer" to "Roll your Own" - but these days the whole nature of the beast has changed --really it's not worth the candle doing it any more except in really rare and special instances.
Cheers
jimbo
I think you have your answer. Build from scratch.
I have just built a PC for my son, got all the bits off ebay including the base system (An old Stone PC with a BTX board)
PC - £15 (Intel Pent 4@ 3ghz)
DDR2 Memory 4gb £4.50
Sonar Sound Card £1.25
Sparkle Geforce Graphics card £7
Western Digital Black 250gb drive (7200rpm) £18
Installed my old W7 home edition disc....and for under £50 he has a reasonable PC that will handle most of what a 12 year old can throw at it.
Hi,
I've got the same Sony PCV-RS420 bought it in January of 2004 in Miami.
It is still running on its original parts, only the C drive had to be replaced after a blackout.
I can feel what your dad was thinking keeping the pc and upgrading the same time.
What I will do is to keep the Sony housing and replace pretty much everything inside.
The psu is originally just about 207watts only and small as the house.
This is crucial to upgrade for at least 400watts. I don't care about the floppy drive
But the Vaio light at the front must be working after the upgrade.
Basically I need to buy a mATX motherboard Pc set of USB 3.0, Hdmi, Sata or Ssd and one dvd
Writer should be enough plus the graphic card etc.
Once I got one I will just move it into the old Vaio.
One thing I'm not sure is how to upgrade the front USB and the iLink.
Any help welcome!
Cheers!