Computer locks up during certain games, event viewer included

My 2 cents worth and like Greg have only skimmed through the thread but I would return to the PSU and try this even if just to eliminate it.

PSU TESTING

https://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/86648-psu-jump-start.html

Test the sockets and leads with a digital multimeter NOT an analogue one because an analogue one injects 9v into a circuitwhich I am sure will know will do no good the board!!

Something like this is ideal http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1TX0K36453

Anothergood ref https://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/301799-psu-test-dc-output-voltage.html

Plus when testing place the blacklead to the case or one of the board fixing screws try not to use the blacks inthe 24 socket - you can but the other site are for more reliable forpreciseness. In fact you can get crocodile clips to fit the black probe toattach and forget leaving one hand free



Now you have to remember of coursecorrect volts does not always mean correct current.

Think of it as a car with a flatbattery it may test perfect at 12 - 13v but try and crank the engine it may dothat but leave no available current for the ignition and other essentialcircuits.

To test though you will need afairly good ammeter and run a known current draw though it however these areusually expensive pieces of equipment and is not really THAT necessary. .

Use this for volts refs and theyneed to be within 5% of the stated voltage - see text in this

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-specifications-atx-reference,3061-2.html

Now I know that maybe the PSU might be new but doesn't mean it is running properly as with anything just one small part going south as in new cars could be the problem.
Just for info I just bought one of these and it is a real helpful gadget and it takes the reading direct from the source - that is when you can get near it of course.

NON Contact LCD IR Digital Infrared Thermometer Temperature With Laser GUN Point | eBay

gregrocker said:

I'm curious why testing the PSU requires jumpstarting the PSU which looks extremely dangerous.

Isn't testing sufficient?

No Greg the jump start is very safe only dismantling the PSU itself is dangerous and then only if that is done by either someone who doesn't know what they are looking for and if it has been running very recently. Usually unplugging the machine and powering on drains those large caps in the PSU.

It is just a matter of testing the sockets and leads to the board with a meter so it only involves volts up to a very max 12-13v and if it is that then there is something very wrong if you look at the tolerances given for those volts used in the machine. Now you can pull the 24 pin out and test or leave in situ I leave in situ and use the board as the negative (ground) point (board fixing screws) (black lead) and run the red lead into the back of the power pins. It is just a matter of seeing if the volts are within 5% + / - of the stated volts on the different coloured leads.
In fact you would need to put your tongue on the back of the 24 pin to get any effect and well I suppose there would be those who would try that but at worst it would just be very unpleasant (and a little moronic) LOL!!

It takes very little time to do the only thing is you must not use an analogue meter as it injects (usually 9volts) into a system to get the readings so you must use a digital meter.

But if you think it isn't worth the try then it really makes no odds to me as I said it would just take that possibility of the PSU being or going bad especially under load as Scott Mueller has quoted time and again that problems with PSU's are vastly underrated when a machine is not going properly.