Nvlddmkm.sys one day after freshly reinstalling system

Ok Stefan it may well have been the PSU all along. Now I don't understand the currency mate because RSD 1.99 equates to AUD$0.25 unless I am calculating the wrong currency of course because 25 Australian cents for a PSU seems hardly credible.
For example this would be a fairly ordinary PSU that I would put in a low work machine https://www.pccasegear.com/products/...3-power-supply. Personally for my machine I would spend quite a bit more because I want the peace of mind - somethng like this https://www.pccasegear.com/products/...m-power-supply

Now in the report there are no BSOD dumps and the only thing that sticks out to me because a lot of the info is real techie stuff is that there are no Blu tooth drivers installed in msinfo log under problem devices.
Just try following those two tutorials again because the blue screen iif it was not just a steady blue one with no text is probably not a true BSOD.

Hmm sorry re the pricing on the PSU mate I didn't mean to sound rude or anything and if you lived a bit closer I could give you one of my spares I have collected over time that would have been good to go.

Still no BSOD dumps in that zip file and I am not sure if CCleaner does in fact clear BSOD dump files - it has never occurred to me to be honest. So the BSOD screen did it look something like what is in the pic attached?

The BSOD dump files show up as in the other pic and have that typical small blue computer like looking icon

There's nothing to apologize for! BTW, we couldn't be further more away from each other!
This is what the screen looked like:

Ok I see now re the CC and if that is the actual blue screen the machine threw then it states in it there is an issue with the NVidia graphics as you can see from my snip/ pic

The usual suggestion is to update the driver for the GPU.

Ok Stefan you are probably right and that it was the power to the GPU being the issue the error numbers following that .sys would in all intents would mean just that to someone who is a lot cleverer than me at decyphering those things.

Now if the new PSU does fix the problem then we both have learnt something eh? because I only do this and build for a hobby.

Pity as usually one of the first things I ask in posts is the health of the PSU and it is more often than not missed as a machine's problems.
his is what I usually post
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT as a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE (sometimes the usual one for Gigabyte boards)
Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.
Limits +/-
12v = 11.4 – 12.6v
5v = 4.74 – 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3.465v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
PSUs 101: A Detailed Look Into Power Supplies (Section 2.)
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

The link within this is good reading and just as a by the by you might find this helpful too in getting the most out of your machine if you don't mind losing a bit of "bling" like transparency
Optimize Windows 7