Desktop bricked after using RT Seven Lite, won't boot into BIOS

A day or so ago, I was using the beta version of RT Seven Lite on my Windows 7 x64 desktop to slipstream a Windows 7 x86 ISO. I waited hours for it to be done before realising it seemed to be frozen, so I force-closed the program and shut down the computer hoping to try again the following day, but I had no idea doing so would affect the OS. The following day, the computer refuses to boot up at all - the power light comes on, the CPU fan starts turning a little then stops, and the display is blank - no booting even into the BIOS.

So far, I've tried:

- Moving the CMOS jumper to reset position, taking out the battery for 1 min, putting the battery back in, then moving the jumper back
- Same as above, but waiting for 5 mins instead
- Taking out the battery alone, waiting for 15 mins, and then putting it back in

I'm currently trying waiting for an hour before putting the battery back in.

Nothing so far has worked, and whereas when the problem first started about a day or two ago, the CPU fan actually started running for a few seconds, now it'll start for just half a second or so and then stop.

Anyone got any ideas on what could have happened and what I could do to fix it? Thanks in advance.

I really, really would appreciate some help getting this fixed, I need this computer to get work done so badly and I can't afford for it to be out of use for any longer, let alone install a whole new system.

Also, it might be worth mentioning that for a few days before it had bricked I was hearing a whining sound from my comp, like a harddrive was trying too hard or something. Maybe that was the cause instead of disturbing RT Seven Lite, who knows?

Highly possible is the short circuit &or certain components failure, on the MB.

Power supply unit do have protection if the MB misbehave, by immediate cut-off.
When on booting, the PSU will check on the MB, and if detect there MB &or components failed.
As you mentioned, it did start, but cut-off immediately, do not mean PSU failure.
This is the fail-safe condition, not PSU failure.

The reason is that you physically cut-off the power, mean PSU is still fine.
Even if you use another PSU, it would still be the same.
Alternately, use your PSU to connect to another computer, it would work.

CMOS jumper is for BIOS reset, nothing more.
If the jumper connect wrongly, there may have additional issue.

Eric3742 said:

Highly possible is the short circuit &or certain components failure, on the MB.

Power supply unit do have protection if the MB misbehave, by immediate cut-off.
When on booting, the PSU will check on the MB, and if detect there MB &or components failed.
As you mentioned, it did start, but cut-off immediately, do not mean PSU failure.
This is the fail-safe condition, not PSU failure.

The reason is that you physically cut-off the power, mean PSU is still fine.
Even if you use another PSU, it would still be the same.
Alternately, use your PSU to connect to another computer, it would work.

CMOS jumper is for BIOS reset, nothing more.
If the jumper connect wrongly, there may have additional issue.

So... what is a motherboard short circuit caused by, and what would I need to do to fix it?

Mellon Head said:

A motherboard short or open circuit would be caused by a failed component on the motherboard. It may or may not exhibit some physical damage in the circuitry that you could visibly detect. (i.e. burned components or the smell of smoke).

I disagree with Eric on this point: If it were just a BIOS problem, your fans would still spin after you turned the PC on. Since the fans don't spin, it's safe to look hard at the power supply first before moving on to the motherboard. If your power supply checks out ok, THEN we can look at doing something with the motherboard.

And if your motherboard has a problem, you can't usually fix it, unless you have access to some sophisticated soldering and diagnostic equipment. It's easier and more reliable to just replace it.

Since you have to wait to borrow a supply, maybe you can take yours to a computer shop and have them test it for a small fee?

Kinda strapped for cash atm, so I'm doing my best to make sure I don't have to hand it in to the shop.

Hopefully I'll have a PSU sometime later on today, so I'll give it a test when I do get hold of it. Also, it didn't occur to me to mention this before, because I didn't realise all motherboards should have LEDs on when they're running, but I'm not seeing any LEDs on in the whole system at all. It's completely dead. I suppose that lends weight to your theory of the PSU being faulty?

So you don't think this was caused by using RT Seven Lite at all, that that was completely coincidental and that this is probably a separate failing of the PSU that would have occurred anyway?

Mellon Head said:

Hashim said:

So you don't think this was caused by using RT Seven Lite at all, that that was completely coincidental and that this is probably a separate failing of the PSU that would have occurred anyway?

I believe that it was just a coincidence. I think that the whining sound a couple of days before the failure was a bit of a warning. I doubt very much that any software will brick anything but your BIOS, and I think your BIOS is all right. On most PCs the fans and LEDS work without BIOS intervention.

If you aren't getting any lights on the motherboard, that's a pretty good indication that power is missing somewhere. You may have lost only one of your power rails, but it's enough to keep your computer from working. That's why I'm suggesting to test the PSU first. You're doing that, so that is great. We'll get to the bottom of it. :)

That's good to hear, at least. Now I know I can carry on messing with the software once I'm done with all this, and also that I'm a step closer to solving this.

Okay, I managed to get hold of a PSU, but its max output is 300W, as opposed to my current one's 450. Would it be safe to try with this one, or would I need to get hold of one with the same or higher output? I've never installed a PSU before, and judging by all the wires I've had to fiddle with to take the current one out, I want to be sure I'm going down the right path before I commit to this nightmare, lol.