Complete freeze shortly after startup, and sudden shutdown

That's ok mate the rail volts are fine that's the main thing and to be honest the PSU is often overlooked as a cause for problems and as I said it is always something I like to check early on.

Hi, just thinking out loud here:

First this:

ToxicXGL said:

What i did notice tho is that my cpu cooler mounting pin is kind of busted, but the cooler still sits well and firm on the CPU. Fan is also working. CPU still throttling.

Then this:

That means that HW Monitor is looking for a sensor where there isn't one, for some reason it has CPUTIN sensor mapped to the wrong location for your motherboard and since its not getting any data at all its reading as its max possible value (128 C)

Check your temps with some other programs, and check in BIOS to see what it says, you may have a faulty CPU temperature probe.

Source: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/32...-128c#r3045959

Did you ever stop to consider that, that mounting pin that is kind of busted is part of the CPU temperature probe system? It doesn't matter if it sits well and firm, it's kinda busted and until you test with a known good cooling unit you won't know for sure.

Think of it this way; How can the cooler know how the CPU is doing if a probe is busted?

Think of it this way; How can the cooler know how the CPU is doing if a probe is busted?

Very true and I am guessing that maybe a purely mechanical method might be needed as in one of those infrared guns - they are not very expensive and I have found them really good even if you can only get half way close enough shot at the CPU.

Now in my experience too say with a liquid cooled unit the reading from the gun even off the radiator or cooling pipes if the unit is an air cooled one the difference between the actual CPU temp and the cooler is within approx 10C of the CPU proper sensor reading.

As I said the guns themselves are really cheap and very accurate.

ToxicXGL said:

After windows updates was able to play Warframe on max for 2 hours without any issues. PC is still running as we speak.

Well, now I'm really baffled.

Yes well I did notice back in post #7 you said that the cooler mount was kinf of busted just what did you mean by busted?? bent or the thing has cracked away from the board ?

Am asking because as you probably know the CPU spreader and the cooler heatsink have to have as much contact as possible and to do that the two surfaces have to have as much even pressure between them plus the compound to make sure the microscopic scratches and pits on those two surfaces have the optimum level of contact to carry away the heat produced by the CPU.
Now it stands to reason that if the two surfaces are not at 180 degrees to each other as is physically possible then the heat transfer is not going to be even at best and useless at worst.

If you do get a new cooler then I don't know how well you know how to do this and I am not being presumptuous then you need to not only clean the two surfaces but prepare them first before applying a reputable brand compound.
Personally I use Arctic Silver products and my method is to clean the two surfaces (even if they are new) with the AS cleaning solution and then prepare the surface with the prep solution and then using one of my fingers inside a vinyl glove - a latex one will do to keep any body oils from myself from contaminating the two surfaces and genrtly spread an even thin film of the AS thermal compound over each surface.
I then place a spot (rice grain size) of the AS compound on the centre of the CPU heatsink and then fix down the cooler plate / spreader. The compound will on heating up "bleed out" across the two surfaces which have been "primed" with compound. This way I am sure that the compound is in contact with the entire surface of the two components.
I do not subscribe to just using alcohol and/or just putting a blob of compound on the CPU an just putting back the cooler only because I am very pedantic and OCD about doing this because of problems I have had I the past.
The products are in these links Arctic Silver Incorporated - ArctiClean & Arctic Silver Incorporated - Arctic Silver 5 The products are a little more expensive than other s which might be good but I use only this now.

Edit: I should have said though that the choice is yours of course. Plus use clean pieces of cloth or tissue for each solution do not mix them.

Haha no worries I'm not a noob.

Got you my friend and I was not insinuating you do not know what you are doing just offering you a different method of reapplying the compound as I have tried all manner of methods and find mine ensures that tight contact without contaminating the surfaces and every square millimetre of the surfaces are covered with compound.

But as I said too it's your gear and choice.

Yes those fixers are a piece of work too personally I have had many battles with them and why they make them so flimsy (in my mind) is crazy when one is plating around a piece of equipment that costs hundreds of dollars.

Again I now would only choose liquid coolers because most of my issues have been with those enormous air types.