Will this card work in my desktop PC?

Hello Efdy now that is one golden oldie if you don't mind me saying and according to this EVGA - Product Specs - e-GeForce 6200 AGP you need at least 300W from the PSU which you have of course but I think that if you use this calculator it might give you an idea of what the rest of the machine plus the new card will need.
OuterVision Power Supply Calculator fill it in as best you can to find the power requirement taking into consideration what the specs say in that other link.

Having said that I am now thinking that the PSU is really getting on in years if it is the original one and it may be an idea to find out just what it is putting out first because if it is not functioning properly it may mean a new one or at least a good second hand one. I ma saying this because it would be a disappointment to find after the fact that the PSU is not up to the job. So just follow this
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT as a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE (sometimes the usual one for Gigabyte boards)
Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.
Limits +/- (minimum - correct - maximum)
12v1 = 11.4 - 12 - 12.6v
12v2 = 11.4 - 12- 12.6v
5v = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3 – 3.465v
-12v = -10.80 - -12 - -13.20v
+5VSB = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
PSUs 101: A Detailed Look Into Power Supplies (Section 2.)
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

As you look for a card you need to be sure you get one that is for the AGP slot. Do not get a card that needs a pci-e slot, which is true of most cards you will find. All the cards listed below have the same or more resolution options than your fx5200, all are AGP, all are cheap, all require low power.

Every card ever made has drivers that are online somewhere, usually not too hard to find. Guru3D is one such site.
download from Guru3D.com

Read through the spec comparisons on the game-debate links.


The 6200 is a slight upgrade from your existing card, as shown below. $44 as you said on amazon.
Nvidia GeForce 6200 compare Nvidia GeForce FX 5200 GPU

The HD 3450 is a huge upgrade from your fx5200, for $55
AMD Radeon HD 3450 compare Nvidia GeForce FX 5200 GPU

Amazon.com: Club 3D Radeon HD3450 512 MB AGP 8x Graphics Card, CGA-3452: Electronics

The HD 2600 pro is an extreme upgrade from your fx5200 existing card, for $70
Amazon.com: ASUS AH2600PRO/HTDP/512M/A ATI RADEON HD 2600PRO 512MB 128-bit GDDR2 8X/4X AGP HDCP Dual-Link AVIVO HD Video Card w/Dual DVI, HDTV: Electronics

AMD Radeon HD 2600 Pro compare Nvidia GeForce FX 5200 GPU

And if you have the moxie to use a something like a twist-tie to wrap through the upper hole and secure the card to your case, the below Radeon 9600 is a pretty big upgrade from the fx5200 for only $16 because the guy lost the mounting bracket, hence the price...
AMD Radeon 9600 Series compare Nvidia GeForce FX 5200 GPU

Amazon.com: FIC A96M ATI RADEON 9600 128MB 128-bit DDR 4X/8X AGP Video Card (No Bracket) w/DVI, S-Video: Electronics

With most fx5200 cards you can use either a DVI or VGA cable so I'm not sure which you are using for your monitor (your monitor might actually take either one), but of course make sure your new video card has the right output port.

chances are you can find even better prices on ebay...

I'd rather get the HD 3650.

Amazon.com: Sapphire ATI Radeon HD3650 512 MB 2DVI AGP Video Card 100258L: Electronics

But you'd better off searching in ebay. They have lots of good deals in there.

Ok lets not worry re the PSU if that is all the Sensor picked up because in that shot of my Ivy Bridge machine PSU you can see the info I wanted to see by just scrolling down the side bar. As I said in the ditty the section with the Vbatt is a dead give away that you are in the right spot.

But anyway have a look at what John and Roaster have posted as I really am no expert with GPU and the specs in particular:)

Efdy now you can use this Speccy - Free Download - Piriform to find the temps on anything - in the Summary screen it should show the graphics temp I am not sure now because I am stuck in hospital and cannot check on my desktops and honestly cannot remember.

The PSU yes I think it is good idea and a Corsair as you have got now is my favourite brand and is a quality product from whoever makes them (PSU's are made by companies not necessarily the brand title) - they used to be made by Seasonic a top brand itself.
Now the size is up to you and personally I would go for the best you can afford the RM series was a lower end of the top end PSU's model if my memory serves me right and the AX and HX are the best but may be too pricey for you if you go for a large one.

Use this to find the size for your machine you just need to enter the components and it will automatically calculate the size. It does so giving you a little "overkill" also so that if you decide to add more components in they would be covered. OuterVision Power Supply Calculator
In any case just because you have a large output PSU doesn't mean you will be using a lot more form the mains it doesn't work like that because the PSU only converts the mains power into the low voltage power that the machine is using at the time. So for example at idle the machine is drawing much less power than if you were heavy gaming.

As you have a 650W one now probably a 650W or 750W is going to be ideal. There are some really well priced ones here Corsiar psu - Newegg.com so much better than out here
Oh and you might take this opportunity to get a modular one while you are at it mate so much easier to fit or replace and tidier.

I'll stop raving on now

I would NOT recommend Speccy for checking Processor temps because it's buggy as hell.

Use core temp for CPU and GPU-Z for graphics cards

ReatTemp works well on my system.

Real Temp - CPU temperature monitoring

Jack