Link Width stuck at x1

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  1. Posts : 13
    Windows 7 Home Premium x86 | Windows XP Pro SP3
       #1

    Link Width stuck at x1


    Hello all,

    I m having a problem about which i have googled alot, found some solutions but unfortunately they dont apply to me system despite of having similar problem. Together with this problem, i have some other problems too which i think are interrelated to this.

    The problem looks like the following image:



    In first image, the bus interface is stuck at x1 though the PCIe 2.0 slot has capacity of x16 speed. The second image is of a normal gpu.

    I couldnt try any of the solution given here coz my motherboard doesnt have any of these options. Still i have done some things to get rid of this:
    -Tried updating motherboard BIOS
    -Reinstalled different video drivers.
    -Sent back the card to the company but it was fine there (that is, was running at x16)
    -Tried another gfx card (9400GT) at the shop, it worked fine on the same mobo (that is, it was also running on x16)

    At this point, I must tell you my specs:
    XFX 8600GT 1GB
    Intel DG35EC motherboard
    Intel Core2Duo E8400 3GHz
    2GB RAM
    Windows 7 Home Prem and Windows XP Pro SP3 32 bit
    and a local, cheap 400W(i think yea it is 400W) iball PSU which has these details

    Now ofc, the PSU doesnt even meet 20A on +12V rail (dunno how much req for 8600GT). Everything was running fine on this configuration when i build this pc two yrs ago. Just after an yr, the first to die was the motherboard. got it RMA'ed and even bought the same mobo as a replacement (so that if one mobo is out, another should b working). After 3-4 months, it was time for gfx card to die. Got a new one replaced in 2-3 weeks. Then till now mobo has died twice, RAM once, once gfx card.

    A month, when it was 2nd time the mobo died, i sent the died one to rma, and replaced another one. After that, i started to see my fps falling down drastically. Thinking it maybe faulty drivers, reinstalled many times (in BOTH os i.e. XP and 7). But no gain. Somehow, i came to know that the link width is stuck at x1 instead of x16. Checked through GPUZ, CPUZ and BIOS, all of them reported it at x1. A week ago, sent the card for rma and found the card is fine so as the mobo as another pcie x16 card was running fine at full x16 speed.

    Wat i havent tried is another psu coz since my gfx card died for the first time, a friend of mine (he being an expert in hardware and pc assembling) had told me that the psu can be the culprit and can do further dmg to my pc. As soon as I got to know this, i told my dad to get a new psu. (I dont have much knowledge about mobos and psu and thats y i had bought this psu when i build it). Dad said, why should we get a new psu as the current psu has been working on the same pc fine for so long. How can it b the culprit?? Even i thought "ye the pc working on the same psu fine for a yr..no probs with gfx card too". But soon, i came to know how low quality psu has.

    Together with this "link width" prob, i have two more probs which, if related to this issue, will discuss further. if not, will create new thread for them.

    The first problem is that when i put additional 2GB stick, the pc doesnt turn on. !! But it happens only when i have gfx card in the pcie slot too. If theres no gfx card present and m running on onboard gfx, it works fine.. ie full 4GB appears. Now i donno why it works w/o gfx card and why not with it.
    (The two 2GB sticks are of not the same company but they do have same frequency/speed or watever that PC800 is called).

    Second side problem is that in both XP and 7, when i check GPUZ, it shows one additional Intel G35 Express Chipset (onboard gfx). That is, if i have my gfx card slotted, GPUZ will show Intel's onboard gfx first in the list and 8600GT as 2nd. As m on external vid card, the onboard card shud get disabled but it doesnt. If i take out gfx card and run on Intel's onboard gfx, even then also it shows two "Intel G35 Express Chipset". One of them being the real one and one being fake. Not only GPUZ but if i check thru Device Manager, it also shows the same ie two Intel onboard gfx. I tried uninstalling the intel's driver thoroughly, and reinstalling, but still it shows two. But, one chipset shows the new driver version and one (the fake one) shows an old ver. Maybe a leftover driver in system but m not able to remove it. If i try to remove any one of them thru device manager (they are identical in list, nothing to differentiate), both of them get uninstalled leaving me to put my gfx card back (coz of no display) OR if done when gfx card already in place, then windows automatically installs the driver and once again both appear.

    -------------
    If its my psu who is culprit, then pls tell me which psu to get in a budget of $65-75. I have replacing psu as the last option.


    m not very good at telling/explaining problems to others thats y everything above might not be understandable or just partially understandable. And m sorry for bad english and bla bla
      My Computer


  2. Posts : 53,363
    Windows 10 Home x64
       #2

    Welcome to Seven Forums eshan. You've had a spell of bad luck. It IS possible it's the PSU, but for me the 1st choice would be the GPU, then the MB. But since you've had trouble with both, and another GPU works (at least for a short test), the PSU is seeming more likely, as the common part. And it looks like you have a low end PSU.

    Let's see if some more knowledgeable members don't come along with differing opinions. Your PSU may be too weak. If you look for a new one, I like Antec personally, but if you find some, post back and we can give you our opinions of which is best. I'm sure others will have their favorite brands that are good. A Guy
      My Computer


  3. Posts : 13
    Windows 7 Home Premium x86 | Windows XP Pro SP3
    Thread Starter
       #3

    A Guy said:
    Welcome to Seven Forums eshan. You've had a spell of bad luck. It IS possible it's the PSU, but for me the 1st choice would be the GPU, then the MB. But since you've had trouble with both, and another GPU works (at least for a short test), the PSU is seeming more likely, as the common part. And it looks like you have a low end PSU.

    Let's see if some more knowledgeable members don't come along with differing opinions. Your PSU may be too weak. If you look for a new one, I like Antec personally, but if you find some, post back and we can give you our opinions of which is best. I'm sure others will have their favorite brands that are good. A Guy
    First of all, thnx for the warm welcome :)

    My opinion was also that at first it could be GPU and if its not then mobo but after experimenting everything with both of them for a month, i have no option but to say its the psu.

    Few months ago, i just went thru some PSU's brands and had personally liked CoolerMaster's 500W (dont remember which model). But if i get to know even nicer psu (and if it suits my budget) then i will go for it. And yea i wud like to know how much of wattage will b enough for my pc as m a gamer, the system is more likely to work at peak power.

    I hope someone WILL solve my weird prob.
    Thnx for the reply :)
      My Computer


  4. Posts : 1,496
    7 Ultimate x64
       #4

    Components are not safe in that machine. So far, you've managed to kill 2 boards (currently working on your 3rd), 1 video card, and a kit of RAM. That's a lot of RMA's.

    Listen to your friend: inadequate and/or faulty psu's can and do damage hardware. There are some you just should not get for this very reason.

    As for you Dad: explain to him that power supplies have lifespans. The cheaper the psu, the shorter the lifespan. My guess is that your iBall's lifespan expired on or about the same time you blew your first board?

    Your card needs at least 350 watts and 22 amps. If I were you, I'd invest in a good psu as soon as possible... like before you send another part to an early grave.
      My Computer


  5. Posts : 13
    Windows 7 Home Premium x86 | Windows XP Pro SP3
    Thread Starter
       #5

    Ok,
    i've decided to buy a psu in next few days. the thing is i cant decide which one to get as it will depend on what brands of psu are available in my market (not every brand will b available i think). but i will try to get antec, thermaltake or coolermaster psu 500W with atleast 20A in 12V rail.

    after that, i will see if my probs are solved or not. if not, i will need further assistance from u guys.

    btw, can any1 explain me if a psu has +12V1 and 12V2 rails both having say 25A, then does it mean the 12V rail has 50Amps?
      My Computer


  6. Posts : 1,496
    7 Ultimate x64
       #6

    eshan said:
    ... i will try to get antec, thermaltake or coolermaster psu 500W with at least 20A in 12V rail.

    btw, can any1 explain me if a psu has +12V1 and 12V2 rails both having say 25A, then does it mean the 12V rail has 50Amps?
    Your card need 22 amps, not 20.

    As for dual rail PSU's: true dual rail psu's are very uncommon. What you see mostly are single rail psu's that have the +12 volt rail split. So yes, technically, the V1 and V2 would add up to 50 amps; however, because they've been split, voltage doesn't flow in the same way as if it were on a single rail.

    With a dual rail, 25 would go to the cpu, no matter if the cpu needed all of it or not. The other 25 would power the rest of the system, and if your system and all its devices need more than 25 amps, that's too bad. This is why strong single rails are always the way to go.
      My Computer


  7. Posts : 13
    Windows 7 Home Premium x86 | Windows XP Pro SP3
    Thread Starter
       #7

    Fumz said:
    Your card need 22 amps, not 20.

    As for dual rail PSU's: true dual rail psu's are very uncommon. What you see mostly are single rail psu's that have the +12 volt rail split. So yes, technically, the V1 and V2 would add up to 50 amps; however, because they've been split, voltage doesn't flow in the same way as if it were on a single rail.

    With a dual rail, 25 would go to the cpu, no matter if the cpu needed all of it or not. The other 25 would power the rest of the system, and if your system and all its devices need more than 25 amps, that's too bad. This is why strong single rails are always the way to go.
    o i c
    ok, now i know what shud i go for!
      My Computer


  8. Posts : 13
    Windows 7 Home Premium x86 | Windows XP Pro SP3
    Thread Starter
       #8

    Hey!

    Today bought myself a new psu for Rs.3850 or USD 82.48 - Corsair VX450.

    I had 550W psu in mind but after googling prices for my local market, it showed some of my choice of psu are out of my budget. But SeaSonic's 500W was in my budget and had made my mind to buy that. But unfortunately, when i actually went to the market, no one had seasonic (a shopkeeper even said "i never heard of seasonic").

    Finally, i stepped onto my second preference i.e. Corsair VX series. Due to tight budget, i went for VX450W which has 33A on +12V rail.

    But ...no gain..
    None of my probs (in first post) got solved.
    - Graphics card still running at x1 link width resulting in poor fps
    - Not able to add another 2GB of RAM stick and turn pc on
    - Still showing a fake onboard gfx

    But hey... i do got rid of
    - Windows XP was lagging/hanging/long loadtimes since 2-3 days
    - Had probs booting up the HDD. Old psu had hard time in booting up the hdd as it used to show "no bootdisk" or used to stop responding on the Intel screen (during POST?)

    And m satisfied that i got myself a quality product and my mobo, ram or other hardware wont fry out next time due to psu.

    ...As the link width is still stuck at x1 speed, m thinking of RMAing my 8600gt myself (i used to sent the product back to company through the dealer i had bought components from). I will go to the service centre/office/hq and tell them exactly my prob as last time i had written my prob up on a piece of paper and handed over it to the dealer and they forwarded the msg. As no one was able to understand my prob here (the technician at dealer's spot), it might b that technicians at mfg's place also didnt got wat the prob is and sent the card back to me saying its fine.

    At the end of day, m tired of this. "RMAing myself" wud b last thing i will do to get my card back on track. Otherwise, i have an option in my mind. I will just sell this card and get myself a new card which will b 10x better than this at around the same price i had paid to get this 8600GT 2yrs back (for USD 128.53).

    I m thinking of ATi this time coz of their nice price tags. HD5770 is wat in my mind atm (i might need a case upgrade too coz my current case is somewhat small for that card). I googled some info on it and found that it requires 450W of power supply but needs min 40A on 12V??. The info on amps req by card is not given any where by amd/ati but dunno how some guys came to this conclusion.

    Watever... will it run fine on current system specs? Also worthy to ask: that card has PCIe 2.1 bus interface and my mobo has only pcie slot...how much will b the difference in performance? And one LAST question...the hd5770 req 75W 6pin pcie connecter, but idk how much power the 6pin pcie connector of my psu can draw?


    Thank you very much taking your time in reading and helping me so far.
    :)
      My Computer


  9. Posts : 13
    Windows 7 Home Premium x86 | Windows XP Pro SP3
    Thread Starter
       #9

    Bump!

    can someone pls reply atleast on the following?


    *i found that my psu will b powerful enough to run 5770 except cant go for crossfire neither m willing to*

    eshan said:
    Watever... will it run fine on current system specs? Also worthy to ask: that card has PCIe 2.1 bus interface and my mobo has only pcie slot...how much will b the difference in performance? And one LAST question...the hd5770 req 75W 6pin pcie connecter, but idk how much power the 6pin pcie connector of my psu can draw?


    Thank you very much taking your time in reading and helping me so far.
    :)
      My Computer


  10. Posts : 13
    Windows 7 Home Premium x86 | Windows XP Pro SP3
    Thread Starter
       #10

    -.-!!
    no one replied even after bumping.... had no internet for 2 weeks..

    seems like no one was willing to answer further...
    anyways, i sold my 8600gt and got HD5770 (msi ATi R5770 HAWK). Everything is running absolutely fine now (pciex16 @ x16). Temps are normal - 5770 running supercool, processor which was burning around 65-70° (80+° reported in bios) is now under 60°C stable (reapplied thermal compound), the 2nd 2GB ram which wasnt working with 8600GT is now recognized and total 4GB is shown.

    only one prob i faced after installing catalyst 10.6 on win7. i clicked on Restore to Factory Default in Options in CCC. After that the resolution was stuck at 1024x768 (as reported by monitor's OSD) though CCC was showing 1360x768. Everything was blurred very much. Tried uninstalling 10.6 and installing the drivers/catalyst came with the cd and again installing 10.6. Still same. finally, only system restore was able to bring back correct resolution. So, i think the "Restore to Factory.." is bugged in 10.6 as i saw someone else also having same prob in google.

    ....tired now.
    can close the thread now.
      My Computer


 
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