PC won't power on OCZ PSU help ><

Well that's just part of the process of elimination. No bad supply, video card, or dimms to report. And since this is seen right when first powering up on a new build you don't have too many other things to look at besides the one other item not considered so far being the hard drive.

If the drive is bad from the start that cause a number of issues as well as a bad cap on the board. If you can get up to the desktop to run the "chkdsk /r" command at the Start>Run or a command prompt.

A simple right click on the drive's icon to open the Tools tab you can check off the two options there for automatically fixing any errors found in the event of bad sectors or not realizing a bad install of Windows had been seen. That's also one other possible cause for startup issues since you already swapped out video cards ruling out one set of drivers.

For the drive besides the chkdsk tool a diagnostics tool like HDTune to run that by or going to the Samsuang support site to see if they provide something there would test that idea. Other then those two you would be back looking at the board again.

You got a headache on your hands there no matter what it turns out to be for sure! Typically bad ram would stall the installer! during a regular OS installation. A weak cap on the board or bad bios chip would explain the not being able to handle the draw on power seen at post and starting up.

For a cap that would take a very close visual inspection of the board to note any cap that looked slightly deformed not smooth and even but bulged on the top and sides or any discolored area on the board like something got hot. Sometimes you can spot a leaky cap.

For the eprom problems would be seen as far as simply hitting the power button and nothing happens, fans and lights blink for so many seconds, or you could even be booted to the desktop and suddenly the system restarts on it's own while temps appear normal. A variety of odd ones!

That's crock! When you first turn the system on and Windows hangs right away the system hasn't been on long enough for the cpu to overheat. Someone doesn't know what the real story is apparently. All they are is sales clerks!

As far as replacing the stock hsf that would have been the thought when first ordering and planning out the new build. For taxing loads and ocing things a 3rd party super cooler would have been one of the first things looked at. Plus you can still see Windows load up fully even when a cpu is cooking. Programs and the system will likely crash while that wouldn't preventa working install from booting up.

A bad cpu wouldn't even allow a post let alone see Windows hang at the logo screen. Presently while you couldn't expect the ideal temps that can be ruled out as the main cause. It sounds more like the place the board was bought from is simply trying to slide out of any refund or replacement there!

That would leave the drive itself as the next likely candidate to be having a problem if the board was found to be good provided they actually tested it. I have a few board testers onhand here since I often have to look over older systems.

There are only a couple of full system testers out there,,, PC Doctor and Ultra-X
There might be some others.

I personally am not a huge fan of either.
However, they can work. I have not used either in a very long time because I came to the conclusion a long time ago that under the majority of circumstances they were actually pretty useless and quite expensive.

I will agree that this is probably not an overheating issue. But, I have seen systems heat up and shutdown quick that were not put together right. Just saying.

Memtest has been done through the button on the board and clears fine.

There is no button on any board that will do a proper test of memory. Unless it is a built in memtester that runs for no less than 6 to 8 hours. If you push a button and it runs some test and then says fine in about 5 seconds?
it can't test memory properly that fast
If you are referring to resetting the BIOS/CMOS and booting and it going through a memory Scan, that is not a Memory Test. It's jut s a memory scan, not a test.

You need to boot to the Windows disk and run a repair and/or search for the memory diags that are on that Install disk.

Or Go here and download the ISO and burn it. Run the test and hit "t" for the extended tests and run them for no less than 6 hours.
If you did not do this,, you did not test the memory properly.


However,,,,, in the OP first post....

Then I booted it up and it would go through the BIOS fine and start loading windows, the animation would go (win 7) and then it would hang and eventually power down.

The eventually power down part,,, how long is the eventually? 30 seconds, 5 min??

If you are able to run Memtests for more than 10 min, then you do not have an Overheat problem, you may still have bad RAM so let the test finish...

If the test does not complete and the system still locks up and then shuts down?
That absolutely is an indication of a heat problem or a power issue.
The only time a PC will power itself off is due to over heat,,, or a power issue.

Otherwise,, if the memory tests fine and the system stays up and on
then it is either an OS problem, or Bad Hard Drive.

Which, I agree with NightHawk on and starting to lean towards also. Maybe.

The testers I was referring to are not software testers but actual hardware testers you install on the system. You have to look through a code chart once the testing is complete to see what the readout is pointing to. These plug into PCI slots or by way of a usb port or serial port depending which make and model.

not to get too far off topic.... but this is my experience with such....
They also have those as a part of PC-Doctor and Ultra-X.
If the software doesn't work, which can use the loop back cables and stuff
they also have the PCI tests and such to plug in to various slots, loop backs, etc.

PC-Doctors problem is they started requiring the Loop Back cables and USB keys and other garbage just to run the software to combat piracy. Problem was, you couldn't get the damn thing to run to test if a port was actually bad, or just a problem with the loop back crap. It was a very disappointing product in the end. It was very good back in the very old days.
But even the hardware testers for that product left a bit to be desired.

Ultra-X is ok, when it works, and their burn in software was good.

As far as pure hardware testers, I know there are some pretty good ones though.

I guess my point was, or the reason I mentioned it to begin with,, is this is probably what they might have used for testing. In other words, I question the reliability of the testing done. However, this can also depend on the versions being used as well.

Because, if you walk into the back rooms of most shops, that is probably what they are using.