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#71
Thanks for the feedback. We've certainly examined all the factors you mentioned over the last two weeks.
All up, the exercise was well worth it. I have learnt heaps and we've got the temps down a little. The kids love the new cases (for the location of the USB and headphone jacks, just as much as the aesthetics).
I want to overclock the PCs. With the temps as they are, thet is not practical.
And it has certainly brought out just how wonderfully helpful some people are; like Dave76 and Golden to name a couple (Credits to all who have contributed tho').
As frustrating as this is, I've enjoyed it too.
Last edited by TanyaC; 19 Jan 2011 at 05:05.
I'm still here....hoping that you managed to find a solution to your bizarre problem, or move to South Australia where its hotter (logic dictates the PC should run cooler then)
In all seriousness, I guess people may be researching further, or dont have further ideas. Its a pretty baffling problem to say the least.
Sorry this isn't of any help, but it will keep it at the front of the queue at least.
Regards,
Golden
I'll admit, I skimmed the thread, but I can't believe no one mentioned the best air cooler, especially for the money. CoolerMaster Hyper 212+. $30 USD.
I was born and raised in South Australia - In Barmera in the Riverland. If I thought that would solve the problem I would uproot the kids and move immediately
Well, with the changes made so far, the systems still seem quite stable, that's one good thing. As DeaconFrost says, another cooler might be the go. This Notcua certainly doesn't seem to cool much, better than the stock coolers. I might even try putting my stock cooler back on my machine to test that theory.
I had a look at the Coolermaster 212+ and the review didn't look that favourable, stating that the Noctua was actually a better cooler..
http://www.guru3d.com/article/cooler...-plus-review/7
Last edited by TanyaC; 19 Jan 2011 at 21:39.
I've never used stock coolers and do have a Noctua NH-D14 on my i5 CPU. Most, if not all sites had rated this heatsink as one of the, if not the best cooler out there that provides relatively low noise. Like this site for example:
FrostyTech - Best Heat Sinks & PC Cooling Reviews
While it took some time normalizing CPU temperatures with the D14, I am still not convinced that it is as good as most sites had rated it. Without OC-ing the CPU, the D14 does pretty well at room temperature of 20-22 degree Celsius:
Crank up the clock for the CPU without changing voltage, the temperature jumps a lot:
Prime95 has been used for 100% CPU load and the images are from Core Temp gadget.
It's probably OK in the winter with 20-22 degree room temperature, but in the summer when the room temperature will rise to around 30, so will the CPU temps even at non-OC idle.
My estimate for the summer, the non-OC-d CPU temps going to look like the OC-d temps now with this D14; pretty much what you are seeing with your i7 down under in the middle of the summer....
Yes the Noctua is better. The key phrase for the Hyper 212+ is " for the money". I use it and it's great, but if I was to attempt a big overclock I'd be pickiing one of the choices I posted in 1st reply, so... You're problem has me stumped. If it was one PC, I'd say there was some weird hardware problem, but you tried most everything, so unless the MB is reporting erroneous temperatures, then it's hard to fathom. A Guy
The CPU-Z tabs all look good.
Your RAM is running at 1600 MHz and I'll assume at 1.65v.
If you feel like a little more experimenting you could bring the RAM down to 1333 MHz and 1.5v.
I did see a couple of posts saying this helped lower the temps a little, but I'm skeptical as to how much it would be.
I have seen the same temps for the same CPU and board on other sites, some higher (with problems), some lower.
Pretty much everything has been tried, up to water cooling.
This one might be due to binning, luck of the draw, your lot of CPUs just run a bit warm.
It is possible that the temp reading are not correct, as A Guy mentioned, there is a way to calibrate them with the temp apps.
When you swapped the CPU, it read the same temps, so this points to, maybe, something due to the board.
The CPU temp sensors are geared towards the upper end, its there to enable throttling if it gets too hot, the lower end of the temps are known to be less accurate.